Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

bakaracer wrote:

tom waite wrote:I need new rings too? They are brand new. The cylinder was honed before install. Are you guys saying hone it again? There has to be another issue.

check the ring end gap on the rings you have now. if its to big, that will be one of the reasons why your compression is low.

will do.

I need new rings too? They are brand new. The cylinder was honed before install. Are you guys saying hone it again? There has to be another issue.

Bumpdate: Rings were upside down. I wasn't looking in the right spot for the "mark". Bad news is I busted the Jug base gasket doing the rings. I made a gasket for it but the material was atleast 3x thicker. My results were 95psi. I'm not to familiar with how much of a difference the gasket...

are you reusing and old head gasket? did you torque the head bolts to spec? The head gasket was new upon rebuild. I keep tossing it back in because I am taking the head off several times. I'd have to have a stack of headgaskets if I wanted to put a new one in each time. I have been torquing the bol...

sob. Probably something a machine shop will have to do for me?

No. Let me give you a walk through. I wipe mating surfaces of head and jug before install. I install the headgasket and head. I run a series of compression tests. I pull the head off and the mating surfaces, and headgasket are wet. Nothing on the actual fins of the jug.

Yes. Compression was done with carb off. Reeds double checked and fine. Double checked bore. Perfect. When I remove the head though, I notice the jug, head gasket, and head are wet with gas/oil. Shouldn't it be bone dry if it is sealing? Would there be a little bit of oil?

Low compression. 90psi dry, and cold. The books says I need 170psi with the motor warm. Rings are new, piston is new and the cylinder measured within spec. No clue where my compression is going.

holy s***. Thanks guys. harbor frieght isn't too far away too!

Two things; 1) The compression tells you how physically healthy your motor is. An engine will fire with too much or too little gas, even with the timing off, but it will never fire with no compression. Basic mechanics here. 2) All you get when you ASSUME is to make an "* of you and me." N...

Ok, thinking about my last post, it has to be a gas/oil mix in the crankcase and on the spark plug. It mixes very little oil into the gas. My crankcase seems half filled with fluid. That would mean I'd see a noticeable drop in oil level. I don't. So I can only assume gas is getting there.

Without enough compression, everything else is a waste of time. That could be said for ANYTHING that is causing the issue. Thankfully though, I have time on my hands, and no car. So I am going to check everything else first. Here is the thing I do when trying to find out if my carb is fueling or no...

How much compression? "noticeably higher" doesn't mean much. If it was 40 before 60 is noticeably higher, * it is 50% higher but it still won't run with 60 PSI. I keep returning the compression tester to autozone. I didn't have a car today to run and grab it again. Probably won't tomorrow...

1983 honda aero 50. Completely rebuilt engine. Well I got the new cylinder. Had it honed and installed it. Compression is noticeably higher. But now it won't start. I got it to sputter a bit, but it won't run continuously. It has spark, and the bowl is filling up with fuel. What else do I check? I t...

if you ported it 1/8 in towards the deck, you can pretty much toss the bore in the garbage. Thats about 4.5mm you ported which puts that exhaust port way out of even being riden. if you ported it about 1mm then that would have be better but 4.5mm, that bore is not going to work. it may start but yo...