Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Lunytune wrote:Have you priced your local Hondasan? T I'm sure I can do my small scooters myself.

its a lot more simple than you think all you really need is a needle valve remover, a pair of flat screwdrivers and some dish soap.

the spree sized tires come off/on relatively easily

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a260/po89mm/plate001.jpg also depending on your state there's ANOTHER option. To use original year of manufacture plates, and insure it as a classic/antique. When you do the above you have the opportunity to wave MUCH of the state and federal BS fees that are built...

a nice looking and running spree can easily fetch $600 plus up here in michigan.

but we dont need insurance for them and registering them with the DMV is a piece of cake

unless your one of those folks that just HAS to tinker with stuff

the way i see it if you want to go fast you should be looking at a motorcycle not a moped.



my .02

i could never figure out why scooter junkies slam on the spree as much as they do . IMO if one wanted to go fast on two wheels and have lots of modification potential a scooter is not the place to look for it. One looks at motorcycles for that kind of thing. $595 isn't all that much for a respectabl...

if you take care of it, it will take care of you. ive got about 12,000 miles my NQ-50. As far as milage i tend to get 40 +/- MPG on a tank of gas at WOT.

the horn on my 86 spree will work (while the engine is running) w/o a battory

crack, does he smoke it?

my spree is in better condition than that with 12000 miles on it and id prb let it go for 6-7 hundred.

wet sand with the really really fine grit. the finer the better. The idea is more about making the surface super smooth. you have to keep your parts constantly soaking wet too. One dunk wont do the job. You wet then sand then wet again then sand again etc etc. i wanna say something around 1000 grit ...

i did the same about a week ago at around 3A.
was prb in the 20's.

i would think a can of sandable filler primer would solve a lot of your issues with surface scratches

scratch start is the old school way, not necessary with real gtaw equipment. hand control is very difficult to use, i know a guy who is paralyzed from the waist down, and still a professional welder, i tried his setup and it would take some time to become proficient at. very hard to hold the torch ...

scratch starting with tig?

one of biggest plusses of GTAW in the first place is that it inables one to strike an arc w/o ever touching your base metal

With out pedal you set heat off machine, like with arc welding for different thicknesses, pedal makes nice for start and stop also for variable temp (rheostat) with bottle, torch, and adjustable arc welder tig welding can be done nicely, not meaning welder with plug in settings. the most common way...

scooterwerx wrote:TIG everything! hahaha

i like the way this guy thinks