Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Yep it seems really good now. I think your right after all half of a mm will make it go stiff.

Thanks to all for all the advice. Its hard to get info here in England.

Hi There,

Its what I did earlier with a Tusk substitute. When I did it, it popped and after that it seems to run free. It's still a bit stiffer than the old one but I suppose its to be expected with new seals.

Managed to borrow a tool similiar to the tusk one. Seems like it was the variator side as when i used the tool i felt it pull all of a sudden. It was not much but now I have fastened it all back up its all torqued up and the crank now spins using my fingers. Its smooth now and is loose but not as lo...

Gonna take it apart and start again. Just for curiosity I undid the crank bolts quarter of a turn each just to see if it made any difference. It did. once I had done this I could spin the crank with my fingers freely but nice and smoth with no grinding or play. Could it be that the bearings are not ...

did you use a crank puller or pull the cases together with the case bolts I used the case bolts method as I did not have a crank puller? Get some big fender washers that can fit over the crank shaft . Cut a small piece of pipe that can slip over the crank shaft.so washer first against the case then...

Hi,

It turns with the pulley wheel on no problems and is smooth. However before I split it, it was really free and could be turned by hand with the ends of the crank. It will still turn this way now but not as easy.

paulpauly7 wrote:did you use a crank puller or pull the cases together with the case bolts

I used the case bolts method as I did not have a crank puller?

bakaracer wrote:How far in did you push the seals in? For each side there is a max depth they can be pushed in. Post a pics of each side to show what it looks like.

From the book the variator side seal is flush in the boss and the stator side is 9mm in as per the manual?

As the title states after splitting the case I have cleaned out the rubbish, fitted new bearings and oil seals and had the crank checked for true. I have put it back together and applied the correct torque to the bolts and it feels a lot stiffer than before when spinning it. Is this correct?

I have rebuilt my engine and after replacing the bearings and the oil seals the crank is really stiff. Is this norml>

cheers

Danny

No its to split it via the stator side. It basically sits on the end of the crank and then bolts in to the stator holes either side. I think the idea is to pull the stator side half leaving the transmission side where it is if that makes sense?

Just to update I managed to get the stator off with a bit of force. I'm very gentle with everything you see so its hard for me to hit anything. Tried to split the crank but the metal plate I made was too thin and just bent so I will make a thicker one tomorrow unless someone has a better idea?

I dont get it. All the bolts are off and i have sprayed a bit of WD40 on it to loosen it. I have wiggled it but it has not moved at all. Could it have welded on in some way? Its doing my head in. I cant get the case split until its moved and I want to get on with it as I am missing my Scoot. :sad: :...

Yes it is the wire coil thing. Can I use somthing like WD40 to loosen it?