Newbie with NQ50 help pleas

[Bananaskin]

ok back from the dead..
today i attempt to drain all the gas, but when i thought everything was out.. i can still see some gas inside the tank..

Is there like an extra emergency gallon in there?
how can i remove all of them?

also, when they say mix the gas with oil a ratio of 8/1 do u poor the oil inside the spark plug chamber?


Any input ill really appreciated thanks

[Bear45-70]

No tank drains all the way. If you are draining the fuel for the winter that is a no-no. You want a full tank of fresh gas with fuel stabilizer in it.

I have never heard of mixing gas and oil at 8 to 1 for anything. Why are you doing this?

No do not pour it in the cylinder thru the spark plug hole.

[eliteguy50]

No tank drains all the way. If you are draining the fuel for the winter that is a no-no. You want a full tank of fresh gas with fuel stabilizer in it.

I have never heard of mixing gas and oil at 8 to 1 for anything. Why are you doing this?

No do not pour it in the cylinder thru the spark plug hole.

My old DT360 specs 8:1 in stock form (stock oil pump). I agree with Bear on the full tank thing. These metal tanks are more likely to rust when you leave them empty all winter. Technically, the fuel should be drained and you should oil your tank but that is overkill for winter storage.

[Bananaskin]

the reason why i was draining the tank is because the gas have been sitting for 28 years...

In the beginning of the thread people was recommending me to lub the cylinders..

Whats the best way to do this?

thanks for the input

Stan

[Bear45-70]

the reason why i was draining the tank is because the gas have been sitting for 28 years...

In the beginning of the thread people was recommending me to lub the cylinders..

Whats the best way to do this?

thanks for the input

Stan

Pour a 1/2 a teaspoon of 2 stroke oil (no gas) in the spark plug hole and let it sit for a couple of days.

Unbolt the tank and remove the petcock and the remove the filter above the petcock. Then you should be able to shake out any fuel and clean the tank properly along with the filter.

[Bananaskin]

u lost me my friend..

I will guess your talking about the gas tank?

A little bit more explanation i will thank u a ton..

Stan

[Bear45-70]

How can you work on this thing if you don't know what things are called? Download this and read.

http://www.hondaspree.net/other/Spree_NQ50_84-87_1.pdf

[Bananaskin]

i did thats how i learn how to drain the gas and oil...

i just dont know what specifics your talking about..

O well thanks for the input ill re read it again and find out what u were talking about =-)

Stan

[Bear45-70]

Section 4, the Fuel System and Section 3, Maintenance.

[Bananaskin]

ok back from the dead..

i finally found more time to work on this toy..

Didnt want to start so i bought starting fluid and it did..

I follow the manual for the maint. and fuel system.

The only thing i forgot to do was to clean the damm restrainer from the fuel mixing valve.

Currently it still shuts down after a while..

I took out the gas line coming from the valve and once i did there was no gas coming out.. just little dots..

Could it be that the restrainer is dirty or clocked hence the fuel is not passing thru the lines?

Thanks for all the help and input here guys..
I cant wait to start driving this bad boy now that the gas is so expensive.


Stan

[boostedbuick]

Well I guess I can chime in here with what I can help with.

The valve on the bottom of the gas tank (petcock): This is a vacuum operated check valve. Instead of the old days (like my 78 express) where you turn off the valve manually, this one is automatic. It uses vacuum from a port on the carb to open and let fuel flow. I'm not next to a spree right now but I "think" the line out of the bottom of the valve is the vac line and the side port is the fuel line. I also think the fuel line is a little bigger diameter. If it's not running and/or you don't have a mityvac vacuum pump or equivalent on the vac line, it won't flow any fuel. This is likely not your problem. If it runs a bit and then just dies it is likely that the float in the carburetor is sticking. I've had one or two of those that I've successfully "driven out" of it without tearing the carb apart but they were ones that sat a year or two and not since day one. You will likely need to disassemble the carburetor OR have a small engine specialist do it for you. Number one problem (for me) with scooters that come out of storage is that the carb is either missing or is in a pile on the bench. People take them apart and can't figure them out and then it gets swept in the trash can. Which is why complete carbs are worth so much on ebay. There's a national shortage.

It is almost a shame to take that time capsule and press it into regular service. Don't get me wrong, it is a free country (for now), I won't raise * and call you bad names for doing it. BUT if you were closer to me, almost anywhere out here in the midwest, I'd show up at your door with a clean runner 3000 mile spree (I have two i'm saving for the kids) PLUS a couple hundred bucks cash and I'd gladly trade you. You have a rare find there. If you get it 100% functional and cleaned up I'd bet you could get $7-800 or MORE for that beauty. Any other questions please ask I'll try to help. Though I am not the foremost expert here by any means.

[boostedbuick]

And I almost forgot: Use starting fluid in VERY small quantities.

[Bear45-70]

And I almost forgot: Use starting fluid in VERY small quantities.

Don't use starting fluid at all in a two stroke, EVER! In any quantity, it washes the oil off the cylinder walls and the piston causing metal to metal contact. It can also explode in the crankcase, there by blowing the reeds out. If you want to prime the engine use gas and oil mix at 32 to 1. I keep the stuff on hand in an oil squirt can. Starting fluid if for 4 strokes where it does not end up in the crankcase.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-oz-squee ... 96797.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-flexi ... -1106.html

[eliteguy50]

And I almost forgot: Use starting fluid in VERY small quantities.

Don't use starting fluid at all in a two stroke, EVER! In any quantity, it washes the oil off the cylinder walls and the piston causing metal to metal contact. It can also explode in the crankcase, there by blowing the reeds out. If you want to prime the engine use gas and oil mix at 32 to 1. I keep the stuff on hand in an oil squirt can. Starting fluid if for 4 strokes where it does not end up in the crankcase.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-oz-squee ... 96797.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-flexi ... -1106.html

I try to only use starting fluid (with 2t engines) on piston port mowers. Also, an old contact solution bottle works great for squirting premix gas into the carb.

Any update Stan?

[Bananaskin]

ok
shut i think i was too excited...
unfort. i did pour the starting fluid and it start the scooter..

Tech. the thing starts.. problem is.. it shuts down in a really wierd way

Sometimes it turns on and then shuts down
Sometimes i can ride it and when im turning back and give it gas it shuts down.

I truly believe the carburator needs a check..

I put full gas today and rode it for couple seconds and then it died on me..

There is this idle screw that i tried playing with it, but still it dies..

What do u guys think? Carburator hu?

This machine is SOOO MUCHHH FUNNNNNNN

I cant believe the tank fills up with 2 dollars =-) i cant beat that..

If is the carburator then ill have a specialist to check it.. i can go thru the manual, but at this point i rather just let the expert work on it since i really dont have tons of time to try figure it out..

Any inputs really appreciated


Stan