Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I bought a 3/8 impact wrench couple of months ago, but Wheelz put the fear into me about using it on variators and clutches, so I bought this dandy spanner pin wrench on vise grip frame.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0008
Made in Taiwan, but looks sturdy

I use this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=36778 along with a 1/2 drive breaker bar for the variator and a 18in long pipe 1/2in diameter with 2 bolts through it for the clutch.I used this method for over 16 years and its fast and good.

dont really need those tool.

Just makita 3/8 impact gun 12v. should be fine with it.

Isn't impact only not recommended on front because it might tweak crank which is 2 pieces? Just be easy with 3/8 impact and don't use 1/2 inch impact on rear

Greetings:

Not much to break whacking the clutch shaft. The crank on the other hand is pressed together and then trued by knocking it with hammers. Knocking it with an impact tool can put it out of true, if you axt me. Hold that Drive pulley however best works for you, but I'd avoid using engine compression alond as the recipient of those blows.

i use a strap wrench on the oppisite side.

odinxxix wrote:i use a strap wrench on the oppisite side.

Me and strap wrenches don't get along. That's why I opted for the spanner wrench. It's designed for the job. My daddy taught me many moons ago, don't use makeshift tools when there is a tool made for the job.

e-impact both pulley nuts for over 3yrs with lots of tuning..

key is to mark reference point on nut and shafts, then match upon install

Wheelman-111 wrote:The crank on the other hand is pressed together and then trued by knocking it with hammers. Knocking it with an impact tool can put it out of true, if you axt me.

Wheelz, where did you read that "trued by knocking it with hammers"? Not a very professional or high tech way to true an engine. I've rebuilt split case Volkswagens and Corvairs, and both had alignment pins. So now I tinker with scooters with split cases, and this is the only place I've heard this.

On the other hand, an impact is not best way to set torque on a nut/bolt. We've had a case or two in this forum recently of guys stripping threads while trying to squeeze the belt higher. Also I've rebuilt umpteen rearends and you always set the pinion with a torque wrench, or you get a whine and stressed bearings.

Lunytune wrote:Wheelz, where did you read that "trued by knocking it with hammers"? Not a very professional or high tech way to true an engine.

I've heard of this being done to true cranks that needed repair. Don't know if this was part of the actual manufacturing process by Honda-san though.

Clivester wrote:

Lunytune wrote:Wheelz, where did you read that "trued by knocking it with hammers"? Not a very professional or high tech way to true an engine.

I've heard of this being done to true cranks that needed repair. Don't know if this was part of the actual manufacturing process by Honda-san though.

And your source? What is the procedure?

Lunytune wrote:And your source? What is the procedure?

Here is a pretty good description. Mostly its done to solve run-out issues but can be done to align the flywheel radially too.

http://books.google.com/books?id=kuYFuU ... et&f=false

Okay Clivester, that link helped some. I'm wading in deep muddy water here, but do believe I had the wrong understanding of the problem as well as the procedure. It's not the case halves that are being aligned, nor is the crank being trued (or knocke out if abused with air wrench). It's more an issue of the fly weights. Gotta think about this some more.

Greetings:

Luny axt:

Wheelz, where did you read that "trued by knocking it with hammers"? Not a very professional or high tech way to true an engine.

True, true but straight from Harley-Davidson Old Testament. Harleys also have single-pin, pressed-together cranks and the Faithful "adjust" them with Really Big Hammers. Then again, we also adjust our brakes, carburetors and mirrors with Really Big Hammers...

I imagined after writing that Honda-san had a far more elegant way of ensuring true cranks during manufacturing, locating pins and jigs and the like. However those seeking absolute perfection still tinker and thwack.

Odin, about the only thing worse for the crank than using an impact wrench without restraining that side's rotation would be using a retaining device on the opposite side. Burnt, I agree indexing is a good idea, but wonder how you'd check for twist at the crankpin without splitting the cases. That and just how many times a crank pin can be subjected to this before it starts to rotate a few thousands of a degree. Obviously you and many others do use impacts with great results, but I prefer to take the extra time to pin down the side I'm working and apply the correct torque wrench twist. I started Flash II with a crankshaft trued to 0.002 and it stayed there until I sold the block. Call it my OCD. Anyone seen my Zoloft? YMMV.

Wheelman-111 wrote:Odin, about the only thing worse for the crank than using an impact wrench without restraining that side's rotation would be using a retaining device on the opposite side.

Odin? Well, since my other screen name is Thor, I somewhat have an understanding of Mjolnir.

retaining device on the opposite side

Hondasan manual states the proper way to remove the variator is with by backing up the flywheel with the proper pin spanner tool, and they even give the part # for the tool. I've seen the Honda tool, and it is more of a plier design, whereas the one I bought in on a vise grip design. So then, if using a retaining device on the opposite side would be worse, somebody needs to recall and rewrite every Honda scooter manual in existence. I do notice that Hondasan has no tool or procedure for backing up with a tool on the parameter of the variator. So I feel comfortable in my purchase. But no impact. It can pull threads and overtorque.