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Flash II Begins

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 3:14 am
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:

OK so it's not like modding a CBX, but I've always wanted to build an engine touching every part. Light and simple gives 99% of the fun with an affordable price.

I have no special tools except the crankcase assembly collar graciously loaned to me by Cowboy Honda here in Deepinnaharta, Texas. It's amazing what buying pizza for the Parts and Service department will do.

The crank was certified true by my new Tech buddy Jon, who also washed and blasted the SE/05 crankcase. Parts cleaning is never the fun part of building anyway. My apartment dwelling gives me an excuse to outsource this part. :)

I began by porting the case below the reed block; opened wide and knife-edged the divider. Knocked in all the new bearings and seals. Painted everything with GN-2 and greased the case gasket before squeezing the halves together and screwing it down. Then I squared the case in anticipation of the Mighty Malossi bore from Vigro. New wrist pin and bearing, too. Helpful Werx is O-ringing and machining a stock head for 47mm bore. Hope it clears with just enough added compression to run sans gasket.

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I've cleaned up and polished some more since this older pic.

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Yes, my close-ups are legendary for their Suckage. :oops:


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Showing off the clean. It won't stay this way for long. What if anything should I do to the cases to make them cleanable?

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More Full Frontal Cleanliness.



Mounted the rear brake and stator, bolted up the fan. Cleaned up and oiled the cylinder bolts, and that's about all I can do tonight.

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 10:48 pm
by Dac
Heck yeah man. :D

its not a dio, but in your hands its the next best thing. :lol:

Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 11:16 pm
by burnt_toast
no doubt lookin fresh there, clean blocks are always satisfying to see :D

bet you know what i voted for.. haha

Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 12:02 am
by dreamer1uk
Hey,

Im glad theres others out there that are so detailed as me when it comes to cleaning up dirt and grime :D

Voting 1 or 3

Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 12:14 am
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:

Paint's too messy for the Boudoir. I have some Boeshield (made for Boeing the aircraft company) T-9 spray. It's designed to protect the raw aluminum on planes. Sprays on like WD-40 but dries leaving a thin coat of wax.

Cleaned up and primed and installed the oil pump tonight, capping the inlet and output nipples. Malossi bore and Werx-modified head anticipated soon.

Q: will the Malossi cylinder permit installation without a head gasket. Viton O-ring in the head instead? Werx modded the CC for 47mm piston. Just don't want the piston banging into it.

BT I'll bet you voted 3. :)

Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 12:22 am
by burnt_toast
yup if you're going o-ring on the head, wont need another gasket

O-Ringing in the New

Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 12:28 am
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:

Will compression be an issue? Premium fuel?

Re: O-Ringing in the New

Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 9:40 am
by burnt_toast
Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

Will compression be an issue? Premium fuel?
Yupyup, I would go with premo on any bore kit, especially with a custom head.

see if you can figure our squish too, then for more technical info you can even figure out the new compression:
http://www.scootertime.net/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=59

Extra Lead in the Scooter; Must Be Chinese!

Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 12:11 pm
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:

My shopping list was just updated to include a roll of thick solder... :)

Thanks for all the helpful advice.

Progress Notes

Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:39 am
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:

This arrived Monday:

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Set up for lapping the cylinder onto the case, I first ported out the boost inlet on the crankcase:

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Note the large rectangular opening below the little end of the con-rod. Much metal was displaced. The gray color around the perimiter reflects the successful lapping of the cylinder with coarse, then fine-grade compound prior to application of copper Permatex instead of a base gasket.

Next the CT manifold installed and the cylinder mocked up to check piston clearance:

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Now waiting on Werx-worked head and deciding on best carb option. I'd really like to retain the stock bystarter - no, really! - and pump split cable.

Comments and suggestions welcome.

Still Without My Head

Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 12:32 am
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:

Waiting on Wrespected Werx-worked-over head to arrive, decided to install rings, new little-end bearing, Malossi-supplied wrist pin and clips. Triple-checked the clips. Generously slathered the bore and slid it on in. Fit like a glove.

Laid the cylinder and worked the piston to Bottom Dead Center.

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The crown goes below the exhaust port by about 1mm, so a base gasket really isn't necessary there.

Moving to TDC:

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The upper piston edge reaches to within 0.75mm of the lip. Yikes! but should be fine with the 47mm reshaped head. The piston dome actually protrudes about 1.5mm proud of the plane of the cylinder, so as long as there's clearance this high-compression rig should work on Premium fuel and pump-augmented 50:1.

I didn't bother to cc the volume above the port for now. Need the head to determine ratio anyway.

Still need to decide on a carb. Thinking 24mm. Head should arrive any day now.

Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 10:55 am
by burnt_toast
looks good, so are you plannin on running with no base gasket?

Baseless Claim

Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 12:09 pm
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:

BurntToast axt:
looks good, so are you plannin on running with no base gasket?
Yes, presuming everything clears on final assembly and the starter is capable of turning this Hi-Comp beast over...

See my carb advice request in Performance Tech if y'all can help select and source a medium mixer.

Getting Head

Posted: Thu May 14, 2009 12:12 am
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:

Received Werx's reworked head in the mail. Cylinder, that is. Squish band, O-ringed.

CCed at 7.5 not counting proud protruding piston dome. Without knowing that and the actual cylinder volume above the ports, that is a fairly useless number, but I felt like measuring.

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Cleaned the lapped case top and cylinder base one final time before applying

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Permatex copper substitute for a base gasket.

If there's one thing I sick at worse than painting, it's applying caulk, but I managed.

On went the Mighty Malossi and head, finger tight on the bolts. I got over-run all the way around, so should be good. Instructions say wait an hour before adding a quarter-turn, then final torque in 24h. Here it sits:

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Tempted to check compression but will wait 'til tomorrow.

Re: Getting Head

Posted: Thu May 14, 2009 1:09 am
by burnt_toast
Wheelman-111 wrote:Instructions say wait an hour before adding a quarter-turn, then final torque in 24h.
Wow.. never knew about this step, nice one to know for a perfectionist :lol: