old rider, new 86cc Elite E

[808BMW]

If I need to move the shock location, it won't be a problem to make a clevis end and weld it into the frame somewhere rearward of stock. If the rub is just a little bit I may shim the tank up and peen it up in the middle. Lower in the back is better, increases trail of the front wheel, this bike should run well over the stock max speed and may need the stability.

daywot sells an adjustable shock that might be a consideration to rise over "rub" points. However you may want the geometric advantage of moving it rearward.

Be warned, aftermarket shocks are usually wider (especially on the adjustment ring) and tend to rub the tire.

[SpyderMike]

If I need to move the shock location, it won't be a problem to make a clevis end and weld it into the frame somewhere rearward of stock. If the rub is just a little bit I may shim the tank up and peen it up in the middle. Lower in the back is better, increases trail of the front wheel, this bike should run well over the stock max speed and may need the stability.

daywot sells an adjustable shock that might be a consideration to rise over "rub" points. However you may want the geometric advantage of moving it rearward.

daywots shock (i believe) is a 270mm at max height...where the sb50 shock is 290mm stock...so swapping to that shock would actually lower his seat more towards rubbing

[elitedio]

So far I don't need a longer shock. Nothing touches. The inner fender was removed. The body panels fit, we have notched the right body panel near the front so that it clears the engine fan.

Still working on tuning. Next step there is to put lighter clutch springs in as the belt is moving up before the clutch engages. I believe that the clutch has yellow springs in it and a red belt drive spring. I am thinking of putting in the standard clutch springs from the original engine. Also I am going to clean the gas tank as I am getting some rust in the float bowl.

[SpyderMike]

Next step there is to put lighter clutch springs in as the belt is moving up before the clutch engages.

you could also try lighter rollers as they are easier to change and might solve the problem

[elitedio]

I can see what you are doing by trying to delay the ratio change and appreciate your comments. I just don't think I need the engine at such an extreme rpm to get it rolling. I am not using it for drag racing. I just want it to get going without having to run 7000 -8000rpm. Maybe the clutch is burned out? I should hook up a tach to help with tuning.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I've been lurking and admire your work.

I am not using it for drag racing. I just want it to get going without having to run 7000 -8000rpm

Dunno about the bored-and-stroked FA18, but for the stock 16s 7K is just approaching the foothills of Torque Mountain. With more aggressive porting, I'm guessing yours should be spinning 7.5K minimum just to be considered loafing. There's probably not much power below that. The Variator will allow the RPM "preset" only with the throttle on. When you reach your intended velocity and back off the wrist, the engine drops to its torque peak and hums along. No drag racing RPM.

Going from 9s to 7s won't make as much difference as you may think. 7gs would not be considered "Extreme" by most. Maybe try 8s first? It will facilitate the transistion from start-off to cruise. If it still isn't enough, lighter clutch grab springs may be the next thing to try. YMMV

Nice build, and good luck with your tuning.

[elitedio]

I got some springs for the clutch today. I got them at the hardware store in 3 thicknesses. I tried the .028"x1/4"x17turn first.
I could feel them drag at idle the clutch was not getting nearly as hot but hey it worked. I thought that I should go to the .035"x1/4"x12turn and that worked a lot better still capable of low rpm launching and almost immediate wheelies if held on even riding in the yard. I decided to go with them. The performance is much better than with the .070"x1/4"x7turn monsters that were in there.


I had some issues with rust in the carb float so I dumped the gas and went to work cleaning the tank using some KYB rust remover. Fresh premix and at least I am getting more stable jetting. I raised the needle with shims till It won't run anymore then start back down. My main jet is still rich so I can't gloat on the high speeds that my machine is doing. I can safely say that there is no lack of low end power even with being able to launch at low rpm.

This is my wifes bike mainly. She rides a Buell road bike and a Yamaha dirt bike but still enjoys the scoot. She redid the body so that the engine would fit in. Surprisingly it involved only two notches. She added composite reinforcement behind the fairing in those areas to maintain the structural integrity and to fix a couple of cracks which come with the past 20 + years of being a motorcycle.

Here are some photos of it as it is today. Note that the seat is a couple of inches lower than stock, the rear wheel sticks out behind the bodywork. Lots to do yet.

[elitedio]

I got tired of leaning the bike against stuff, so today I worked on the side stand.

I had read about a 90 dollar bolt on stand. I thought about making one like that and thought that the the center of gravity was further back so I changed it a bit. For materials I had an old van seat that the dog had ate the foam from. It had a couple of sections of square tubing of 3/4" and 1" and some 5 mm round rod. I thought perfect. I figured the flat part of the frame was a good spot to weld to. The springs are the same that I used on my clutch, (my clutch springs were cut to half the length).

Well it took a couple of hours to make it work. I may put a foot on it and a wire to help reach it more easily.

It has 50 degrees at least of static lean angle before the bracket hits. I should add a few washers to shim the parts.

[elitedio]

Today I worked on the 89 EliteE. The engine has been four stroking once it comes up on the pipe. I have a 28 mm OKO carb rather longish Mx pipe. I ended up dropping to a 130 jet. I had originally a 154 (yeah kind of a funny number but that is what it said).

The bike wheelies just after opening he throttle then just cranks a lot of rpm, it pulls quickly and smooth to about 45 mph.

I have my pipe calculated for max in the 7-8000 rpm range. I don't have a tach on it which I need. I think that my engine is running faster than that and I am above the torque peak do to a mismatch.

If I want more high rpm power I can cut down my head pipe by several inches.

Now I have to decide, more rpm and speed (shorter pipe) or less rpm and perhaps a bit more speed (Heavier front weights).

I just got done reading about the 75 mph 72cc by burnt toast. Very impressive. Personally it would be a real rush to go that fast on the short 43" wheelbase bike with tires that are 16" high. I have other bikes that would be more stable for that fast. For me having a high torque mid range engine would give a satisfying ride and offer a longer time between overhauls.

I have a Trail Tech Vapor on one bike I am thinking that I will install it on the scooter.

Oh I also made up a capacitor to replace the dead battery. I used a blown up computer power supply. I found a 3300uf-16v unit that was smaller than a penlight battery. I used a connector and plugged it in. Saves over 4 pounds of weight. My engine doesn't have an electric start so other than having lights when the engine isn't running, every thing works.

Still no sign of the the silencer.

[burnt_toast]

lookin good and very nice on the custom bits. thanks for the shout out.

I'd say tune for the low end for cruising, that can be plenty of fun too

[elitedio]

Yeah Burnt, you and some others seem to have good ideas. I kind of inherited this build as my wife had both this bike and a 150 honda. She sold the 150 Honda and I was stuck into making this thing more fun.

When she bought the bike she and I didn't understand the limitations in speed or modifications. I know that there are plenty of folks who swear that the spree and elite50e are fun but we live in the country and it is 7 miles to the nearest town. Cruising at 25 is not going to be useful.

Tonight after work I took it out and ran it up and down the road. Using my GPS, I hit 52.9. I couldn't open it all the way and have the carburetion stay clean. After 7/8ths throttle it started sputtering. After running 45 on Sunday I took it apart and found that the 28 mm Oko wouldn't open fully with the stock throttle assembly. I ground out some of the stop and got it to open more fully, I am guessing that the carb went off when the last 1/8 of it was opened.

I need to add that the Speedometer reads about 5 mph fast at 30.

lookin good and very nice on the custom bits. thanks for the shout out.

I'd say tune for the low end for cruising, that can be plenty of fun too

[mousewheels]

Hey, looks good all put together too. Like the custom stand, battery eliminator and your parts recyling alot

[elitedio]

Here I am riding by.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rc-0htHehI0
Yeah I need sound but that camera doesn't have it. I have reinstalled the powerjet and may be a bit rich but it is pulling clean, running about 50 on my Garmin.

[burnt_toast]

very nice

[elitedio]

I just had to shorten my pipe. It is now about 6-7 inches shorter than it was. It hangs low but not as outboard as before.

It puts the needle over into the edge of the speedometer case in short order. It was 8:00pm and dark. The low end is still docile for easy low speed maneuvering but once it rolls to 5+mph it starts accelerating impressively.

We also filled in the holes for the luggage rack and the lock for the seat. Maybe we will have to trim the fairing above the back of the pipe.
More later.