Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Sure, pm me your info.

Pm sent!

d*** Honda is taking too long with my speedo/brake cable. Err...

How to fix PG V8 exhaust flange tiny leak. Bugging me and I want to fix it. Gasket is good but Dang it!

Well, rode her around the area and mind you it is 97 degrees and probably 50-70% humidity out. It is hot! My set up

Weights 8g/9g combination
Stock rear center clutch spring
Need clip is set in the middle (not sure what size mains VT threw in there.)

From my speedometer I was travelling somewhere around 45-55 easily until my motor stopped. d***! I said. Could be a melted piston. s*** man! I really don't want to walk home under this best condition. Pulled over to the curb and looked around my engine to see if there are any obvious signs of damage or loose connections. None! Looked around me making sure no one is laughing at me.
Turned on the ignition and crossed my fingers and hope she starts. Prrrriiiinnnggg nggiiii ngggiiii she's alive beetches. Ask myself what caused that sudden stoppage? Scratched my helmet and proceeded my way.

Questions, after reading the wiki and noting that changing the waits alone will not help with speed or take off. Instead, rear center clutch spring must be changed so it could be synced with eachother. I have a yellow center spring but dangit that clutch is a mutha to take apart. What I am really trying to accomplish here is being able to get a nice crisp throttle response with waiting a few seconds kntill the motor catches up. I weight 160lbs and I wonder if going down to a light variators weight let say 6 or 7g would make any difference?

All inputs are welcome even if you are bored and have a silly or retared comment.

Thank you!
Project Sprite

Greetings:

Quoth Sprite:

From my speedometer I was travelling somewhere around 45-55 easily until my motor stopped. d***! I said.

I hate to say it and I hope I'm wrong, but is this with the 51mm Ruima?
If so then a very likely reason for your engine quitting is a "soft seize". So-called because once the engine cools down just a few seconds, it can start right up again and act "normal", despite the scuffed piston skirts. You can check for this by removing the exhaust and peeking up in there. Linear vertical streaks will confirm.

Causes include under-oiling, under-jetting, but in my own personal experience with two (2) 51mm bores, the cylinder walls are very thin and extremely intolerant of over-heating. Check meticulously for any source of vacuum leak, including a poor-fitting and wheezy exhaust port gasket with leak there. If present, there isn't a big enough jet in the world to compensate.

Some report success running these 51mm kits, even with haphazard jetting and assembly. Many, like myself, go "Kaboom" no matter what they do. I've begun to suspect that with some brands, the precision of the match between piston and bore is a matter of dumb luck. If you happen to get a "good" one, then you have no problems. The rest of us are stuck replacing top ends.

Thanks wheelman. I'm using a Phonger BBK from VTcycles.I hope it didn't scuffle anything when I check later this week. I ffixed the exhaust flange leak by changing the studs since elites has a too big of a bump. That bump was enough to misalogn the flange. I put approximately 2.5 oz of oil since the tank is .66 gal 32-1 mixture. But I figured it was my fuel line having a gap of air in the line. As you know I know longer have the petcock but instead have a direct connection from the tank to thr carb.

I am still confused about the variators weight. Lighter better accelaration and heavier? I don't know.... *! Yes I read the wiki but I need to hear it from someone to better understand this variator.


Sprite

Greetings:

The variator is part of the Continuously Variable Transmission system that also includes the belt and the rear pulley with its center or "Contra" spring. Centrifugal force from the spinning weights and their inclined planes balance against the force of the spring back there to determine belt position, thus the engine RPM at full throttle. You want the system to let the engine remain at or close to its best-power-output RPM when you open the throttle. Once the variator pushes the belt out to "Maximum", you're in "top gear". Thereafter, ground speed rises linearly with engine RPM, presuming the engine has the power to get it there. Make sense?

Heavier weights cause the Variated RPM to go down.
Lighter weights cause the Variated RPM to go up.
Thicker Contra spring raises RPM.
Thinner Contra spring lowers RPM.

Weights are easier to change than springs, so increase or decrease by no more than 3-5 grams until the engine holds "optimal" RPM for best performance.

Heavier weights won't necessarily increase top speed unless the previous weights were too light. Heavier weights will simply lower RPM until the variator "maxes out". If the engine is stifled at too low a speed, your top speed may in fact go down.

Conversely, lighter weights don't necessarily improve acceleration if they're too light. The engine will spin up to an RPM rate that is higher than its best output and it will wheeze along without much impact on momentum, like flooring it in first gear and not shifting.

For these reasons, changing weights should be done in small increments so as not to "overshoot" the optimal.

Thanks wheelman. I am adjust the weight in small increments and it does make a lot of difference in the way the transmission react. Again thanks for clarifying this to me. You're the best wheelman.

A quick picture of the Project Sprite. Thinking about painting the rear panels Orange?

looks sweet...maybe fabricate a front fender?

sprite2011 wrote:A quick picture of the Project Sprite. Thinking about painting the rear panels Orange?

Yes! orange!

I'm on top of that sir! Just waiting for some fasterners from my buddy.

I know one thing I need to come over to yourt house at night and steal your glovebox

u should get a bigger signature pic