Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I had trouble fitting the plastic fan shrouds over the massive jug. Starting with the rear shroud, I had to shave a few plastic ridges off the inside to clear some fins....Then had to trim a bit of material off of the jug as well...my goal was to keep the plastic shrouds intact as much as possible to keep temps at bay. Pointer shows what fins need to be shaved. Pic shows mid process with burr bit. Only cutting to my reference line.

The front Fan Shroud was more of a challenge. There was just no way it was going to fit without massive trimming of the head fins...period.

After a few hours of careful grinding, filing and Dremel-ing..the shrouds fit like a glove. Im pretty confident the absolute minimum amount of materiel was removed to achieve the task. Removing 1/4" of the head fins isnt ideal since they are a vital part of the cooling process, however, big gaping holes in the top of the fan shroud would cause the forced air from the fan to exit the jug cavity prematurely. It would essentially starve the rear of the jug (carb side) of critical air flow. I picked my poison.

For exhaust, a Scorpion Stroker pipe is bolted up after a bit more Dremel work on the mounting bracket to fit perfect.

For tach/temp gauges I chose TrailTech TTO for both. Small, easy to install, cheap and they work well.

The 35mph speedometer will be useless so a Kymco unit will be installed. Its absolute plug-n-play for the SA50 head and it runs up to 50mph with room to reach 60-70 on the gauge. Im currently working with a local vinyl graphics outfit to design an overlay decal (sticker) that can cover the speedo numbers with ONLY the MPH and adding the 60 & 70 marks.

Final installation pics will come later.

Heres an idea of the decal Im thinking...I know, its grade school quality but it took me all of 2 minutes to make. Very rough draft but you get the idea.

Motor is installed and running...the break-in process will be slow and methodical. I will remove the fan shrouds and visually inspect for leaks after each heat cycle and check compression after about 3-4 warm-ups. I plan on breaking this in very slowly with ample amounts of idle time while monitoring temps very closely. My area's Winter consists of 5-6 months of non-stop rain,wind and/or snow so riding is not happening any time soon. The stories you hear about Seattle rain are true.

I like your overlay haha. You should use it.

I feel ya about the weather. Everytime it gets a little non-wet outside I wanna ride, then I remember all the silt and road grime left from the rain. I'm moving the south west someday haha.

What color panels you gonna use?

benji wrote:What color panels you gonna use?

Bike is a 96' but Im using a set of Blue panels from a 91'

Nice.

Meatball wrote:im using a set of Blue panels from a 91'

Yessir, it has been named....Elwood

I always hear cycle without the shrouds. Should only run for about 6-8 minutes and heat up to 260-280 during that run time. I don't use cht when heat cycling but a temp gun. I read the temps all around the cylinder to make sure it heating up all around.

Started with a #45 pilot on the first few heat cycles (32:1 mix) and temps only reached 195deg tops. Even if left running over 15min. Throttle response was instant and crisp and but smoke was excessive. Assuming it was rich, I swapped in a #38 and the smoke subsided to reasonable level. Now temps only reach around 215 max no matter how long I let it idle. Its hard to believe it needs a smaller pilot still.

I know its a waste of time jetting during break-in but I want to at least be close.

Someone explain: Idles happily at 2000+- all day...blip throttle to 3500-4000 and revs will drop to 1500 and lug for a second before returning to 2000k.

I'm guessing pwk carb, 24mm? I tried to look but couldn't find out what your using. What main jet and needle?