Problems with Crank & Bearing Removal/Disassembly

[dyehardfan]

I am trying to remove the Ball Bearings that sit on the alternator side of the crank shaft. The outer ring spins, somewhat, but the inner ring seems like it's fused (rusted possibly) to the crankshaft itself. Unless there is some sort of retaining clip that I am completely missing. It's the number 13 in the below schematic:

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/#/Honda/ ... K8EBGK810B

I have been hitting it with penetrating oil and PB Blaster for 3 days now and can't get the thing off, any suggestions?

Thanks guys, and gals if we have any around.

[dyehardfan]

Ok, looks like I need to find a bearing puller. This is getting much more expensive than I was hoping for, but I guess that's why they say nothing is free. Hopefully one of the cycle shops in town will let me give it a shot at their shop....

[Trafficjamz]

[dyehardfan]

Ok, it looks like what you're telling me is I need to remove the entire crank assembly from the case somehow, and then use some sort of vice like thing, possibly a specialized bearing puller.

I apologize again for being a complete novice, and appreciate the help you guys have given me so far. Could you please elaborate a little on what is going on exactly in the pictures and how to remove the entire crank assembly from the case?

Also, would you be willing to loan that part? I could do a paypal deposit or something and pay for shipping both ways. I, unfortunately, don't have the income to go buy a bunch of parts and need to get this motor running to sell a vehicle and save some money on gas.

[Trafficjamz]

Ok, it looks like what you're telling me is I need to remove the entire crank assembly from the case somehow, and then use some sort of vice like thing, possibly a specialized bearing puller.How are you trying to remove it without having the case apart?

I apologize again for being a complete novice, and appreciate the help you guys have given me so far. Could you please elaborate a little on what is going on exactly in the pictures and how to remove the entire crank assembly from the case?When taking these engines apart, sometimes the bearing sticks to the crank. If this happens you need to have this special tool.

Also, would you be willing to loan that part? I could do a paypal deposit or something and pay for shipping both ways. I, unfortunately, don't have the income to go buy a bunch of parts and need to get this motor running to sell a vehicle and save some money on gas.I do not loan out my tools, sorry

Why are you trying to pull this bearing out?

[Trafficjamz]

$29 buys this one from HF. Mine is snap-on, and costs 4X as much
http://www.harborfreight.com/large-bear ... -3979.html

[dyehardfan]

No problem on the loan out, completely understand. $30 isn't bad, I'll have to order one next paycheck. I missing living in a town with a HF.

I am pulling the bearing so that I can pull the drive shaft and piston. This is a ground up engine resto/mod as the previous owner had somehow gotten water inside the engine and everything is gunked up and/or rusted together. The piston and crank shaft do not rotate at all at the moment.

I have the case mostly apart, but do not see how to remove the crank from the case without getting this bearing off. Maybe I am missing something.

I guess I need to include some pictures of where I at on this to see if anyone can offer some advice on what I need to do next:

IMG_0523.jpg (138.98 KiB) Viewed 4917 times

IMG_0521.jpg (135.85 KiB) Viewed 4917 times

IMG_0526.jpg (113.38 KiB) Viewed 4917 times

$29 buys this one from HF. Mine is snap-on, and costs 4X as much
http://www.harborfreight.com/large-bear ... -3979.html

[Bear45-70]

With that much rust, you had better check all the other bearings, including the big end of the connecting rod on the crank. It looks like it is gonna get much more expensive.

[evilone]

Carefully with a rubber mallet hit crank from variator side to knock it out. Then you need a crank puller to install the crank.

[evilone]

What the * is that rubber mallet pop-up?

Edit: nevermind, it was some retarted program that got downloaded with another i downloaded.

[dyehardfan]

With that much rust, you had better check all the other bearings, including the big end of the connecting rod on the crank. It looks like it is gonna get much more expensive.

Yeah, at this point ALL bearings in the bike are being replaced. I ended up driving down to Biloxi, MS to the closest HTF today and found this beauty. It comes in a nice hard case which I though was a good touch. I know it's cheap chinese crap, but I'll probably use it a few times a year. Back when I worked with tools all the time I could justify the expense of Snap-On, Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc. but these days if it's not something I am going to use all of the time its coming from HF.

bearing_seperator_puller.jpg (20.36 KiB) Viewed 4903 times

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-g ... 30305.html

It was $5 more than the one suggested, but came with the puller setup as well as the seperator. Now I shouldn't have to ever rent a steering wheel puller for the crank case again. Glad I got it too, because even with the seperator completely under the bearing it still didn't want to give. Popped the puller attachments on and bam, good to go.

Now onto malleting the crankshaft out...sounds a little dangerous, but I have a micrometer I can borrow to somewhat check for tolerances when I'm done.

Anyone know a cheaper place to order these bearings than http://hondapartshouse.com? Looks like about $63 through them. I have a question about how they listed one of the bearings. The Connecting Rod Bearing it seems they offer three types. They have a Red, Blue and White all with different prices. Anyone know what the differences are? Part 11 on this page: http://bit.ly/iUmfJe

Bear, so far I'm up to:

Spree: $0
2 Variator Bolts to remove crank case : $2
Bearing Seperator/Puller: $40
New Bearings (all 4): ~$60 (Still Need)
Kick Start Spindle: ~$30 (Still Need)
Starter Driven Gear ~ $27 (Still Need)
Air Filter (undecided on type): ??? (Still Need)
Battery (undecided on type): ??? (Still Need)
Spark Plug: $3 (Still Need)

So that's around $200 just to get her possibly going. I'm really hoping I can find some help in the community on the parts like the kick start spindle and starter driven gear, but it's been hard getting consistent communication with the sellers in the market.

I am also planning on doing:

48mm BBK from Taz: ???
21mm Carb from Taz: ???
Gears from Taz: ???
Some form of Exhaust Upgrade: ???

At this point I almost want to get the crankshaft working again and put her back together for the $300 I'm going to be in for, but I really don't want to have to tear her down again to upgrade...

I was hoping this wasn't going to turn into another money pit like all of my projects do. I have a knack for it. This thing better cruise at 35 when I get done with or I'm going to be *.

[evilone]

Now onto malleting the crankshaft out...sounds a little dangerous, but I have a micrometer I can borrow to somewhat check for tolerances when I'm done.

I know, i've heard of others removing it that way as long as it comes out rather easily. Just throwing out a low-cost way of doing it . I personally use my crank puller, it's still not the best way but as long as i feel comfortable when doing it i do it.

[dyehardfan]

Now onto malleting the crankshaft out...sounds a little dangerous, but I have a micrometer I can borrow to somewhat check for tolerances when I'm done.

I know, i've heard of others removing it that way as long as it comes out rather easily. Just throwing out a low-cost way of doing it . I personally use my crank puller, it's still not the best way but as long as i feel comfortable when doing it i do it.

Crankshaft is out and the "starter side", for lack of better terminology, bearing was in the same condition, it's pulled now as well. I am going to disassemble the piston this morning. The bearing that holds the pistion to the rod is possibly ok, but getting replaced. The bearing that holds the rod to the crankshaft is completely seized and I am going to have to work on getting it removed now to disassemble the rod from the crankshaft.

I am a little concerned about the condition of the rod. It is entirely coated in surface rust. Could be structurally fine, but not sure. I'll throw a picture up wen I get it separated and see if you guys think it could just use a good cleaning and some oil or if it needs replacing.

[dyehardfan]

Ok guys, I need to know if I am screwed here or not. Where the rod connects to the crank, this bearing and pin seem to be completely rusted together. I have about 5 degree of play where the rod will move, but no further. I am thinking that this is going to be a major financial undertaking as I do not have the tools or the know how to pull this pin and reinstall new bearing and true the crank. This is the last major piece of the puzzle. Would a crank from a 1984 spree work in my 87? I think it's going to be quicker and cheaper to replace it.

[evilone]

Get a used crank in good condition.