birthday present

[gnar]

My family really went out of thier way to get me some transportation and they ran across a 2000 honda elite s that we thought only need a tiny bit of work (the air cleaner was off and element destroyed). well ive been messing with this thing for a day and a half and im getting frustrated. First pulled the park plug, it looked like *. Guy at this small engine place said he didnt have the exact spark plug i had (br6hsa) but he had one that would work (br5hs). I'll have to double check those plug types. also, battery was way beyond dead so i replaced it as well. well the starter doesnt seem to be getting any voltage to it and the kickstart seems to be locking up every 2 or 3 clicks, seems to be getting stuck at tdc or something. it doesnt do it without the spark plug in. even if i get into a nice rhythm with the kickstar i still couldnt get it to start so i pulled the park plug again and it was covered in oil. i didnt think that to be a good sign so i cleaned the carb. got tired of messing with it for the day but wanted some advice hopefully over the night. Any common issues or knowledge towards the starter and starting would be much appreciated. also id kind of like to get an idea of the adjustments on the carb, silly me forget to make a headnote, i was so p'ohed at that point. any good aftermarkt air cleaner ideas?

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

The crankcase may be full of oil, causing hydrolocking. If the piston carries enough fluid upstairs, pressures become too great to kick it through. Sometimes the oil pump seal seeps and deposits a drop an hour into the cases. It's a slow leak, but there are a lot of hours in 10 years. One solution is to tip it over and pour out the collected puddle. Removal of the reed block is one possible evacuation route.

If that 's not the problem, the kickstarter mechanism itself can develop wear in its individual parts and become prone to jamming. Treat it gently.

A BR5 plug will run, but recommended for colder weather. The plug tip might become too hot otherwise.

Honda can provide a new filter element. It wasn't clear from your post whether or not you still have a complete airbox assembly, but that would be the safest method to get it running - restore it to running Stock condition before you introduce too many other variables. If you don't have the box, check out UNI filters' UP4112AST.

The starter might just be OK with a good battery. You must hold a brake lever or lock the left "Parking Brake" to enable that circuit. Lots of us forget that simple imperative...

A compression test may not be necessary from what you describe, but it's good practice to perform, After you dump the oil.

Good luck!

[trains420]

and make sure your kill switch isn't on. i couldn't get a scooter to start for 2 weeks once becase i forgot about it. the last time i had rode it, i had used the kill switch to kill it, and waited 2 weeks.
forgot that kill switch once, and the scooter won't start without it. just check it, and it might start.

[Bear45-70]

Are you holding the brake lever on when trying to crank the starter. If the brake light is not on the starter will not turn over.

After the engine "locks up" have you pulled the spark plug and looked at it. Is it wet? Oily?

Oh and the correct plug is a BPR6HS and a 5 will work until you get a 6.

[gnar]

got the reed block off, trying to figure out how to tip this thing over without destroying anything. i tried holding both brake levers and using the starter it doesnt click, put a voltmeter to it and got nothing when i tired, not even a tiny jump. i did pull the spark plug out and it was covered in oil, found a honda dealer that has the correct sparkplug and ordering an oem airfilter. any tips on how to drain the crnkcase without flipping the scooter over?

[Bear45-70]

Check the fuse at the battery.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

If you have any kind of vacuum-creating device, even a baby ear rubber syringe, you might try threading a length of line into the reed case port and sucking whatever you can reach. Not sure how well this will thread by the crankshaft, though. It might be easier to remove the cylinder and suck from above, but then you'll need at least the base gasket. If it were mine, I'd drop the engine and invert just the block.

As long as you have 13-ish Volts at the battery, the fuse is a very good suggestion. Then I'd suspect the relay, the wires to the handlebar switch, or the switch itself, not necessarily in that order. Sometimes the switch gets filled with Spreeder-webs.

[gnar]

im not so worried about getting the starter to work as i am getting the bike to start AT ALL. i removed the reed block and tipped the bike upside down, only got maybe a cup of oil out. got new reed block gasket and put the bike back together enough to start it. pulled the gas tank out and dumped it so id have fresh gas in it and it seems that no gas is coming out of the lines into the carb/manifold. its kicking alot easier now, much easier than it did before when it locked up, it almost feels too easy.. but i still cant get it to start. well back to kicking, any ideas would be greatly appreciated, i'm in a tight spot with this.

[trains420]

pull the gas and vaccum line coming from the fuel petcock on the gas tank. suck on the vaccum line, the one going to the manifold. see if gas comes out the fuel line. if not, try to clean your fuel petcock. use some i don't know i used seafoam. blow through it, it might be messed up. when you give it vaccum the petcock opens, and gas can flow. so you can blow through it with vaccuum. makes gas flow when the motors on.

[Bear45-70]

im not so worried about getting the starter to work as i am getting the bike to start AT ALL. i removed the reed block and tipped the bike upside down, only got maybe a cup of oil out. got new reed block gasket and put the bike back together enough to start it. pulled the gas tank out and dumped it so id have fresh gas in it and it seems that no gas is coming out of the lines into the carb/manifold. its kicking alot easier now, much easier than it did before when it locked up, it almost feels too easy.. but i still cant get it to start. well back to kicking, any ideas would be greatly appreciated, i'm in a tight spot with this.

A cup of oil is about 50 times to much oil in the crankcase.

There will be no fuel until a vacuum is applied to the vacuum like going from the intake manifold and the sliver petcock on the bottom of the tank. Pull that line off the manifold and suck on it, fuel should flow out the line going to the carb. If no fuel, you have a bad or dirty petcock.

Oh and the manifold line goes to the bottom od the petcock. The line off the side goes to the carb.

[gnar]

i'm used to working on cars, a cup of oil didnt seem like a whole lot. got an update. i was getting frustrated so i took the carb back off to thrououghly clean it and there was no fuel in the bowl, no fuel even came out of the carb till i removed the float needle and flipped it upside down. took some strating fluid to make sure it was a fuel problem and it is. also i sucked on the lines coming out the petcock. when i suck on the one at the bottom i can feel like a click then it plugs up and gas comes out the other line, so it seems fine. back to the workshop, any hints would be helpful, especially idle adjustment settings

[gnar]

well i figured out something, and it feel like the key to the whole operation, my float was stuck in a closed position. gonna go back and put the whole thing back together and try it again

[z50r-ghost]

Yes, th float needle sticking would cause a problem.... carefully remove the float needle, and use a very sharp razor blade to gently remove the old fuel corrosion from the needle. As for the hle that the needle seats into, you can cut the head off a wooden match-stick, whittle the end to a point, and use the point to "polish" the needle seating hole. While you are in the carb, make sure it is COMPLETELY clean. (including that tiny hole at the bottom of the slide barrel) if you can spray carb cleaner up the brass tube and it comes out the tiny hole, then it is clear. Be sure to remove and clean the emulsion jet, as well as the main jet. a wooden dowel can help knock it out AFTER the main jet is removed. The BEST thing to clean a carb is compressed air, and carb cleaner. remove the rubber bowl gasket and the tiny o-ring (if it is still there) in the air adjustment screw hole.
Once you get everything back together, give the carb a gentle shake to make sure your float is moving freely, then install and give your scooter a start!

Another easier way of getting the oil out of the crankcase is to simply remove the spark plug, push the spark plug wire out of the way, put a clean rag over the plug's hole and crank the engine over with the electric start. vacuum will pull the oil up and out of the hole and on to the rag. -Just be careful when using this method to NOT crank the electric starter over too long. Do it intermittently over about a 15 minute span.

later, jon