85 Aero Electrical Help etc.

[Peetur]

I brought my aero home today and it runs really well. Tops out at 35 (on the speedo). However not everything is working as it should. I have absolutely no turn signals. Both the high and low beams work as well as the brake light. I haven't taken it apart yet so I don't know if they are even hooked up, but I just wanted to get some ideas. Also the horn doesn't really work. I press the button and hear a barely audible hum. And finally the orignal starter button does not work, a second one was installed near the glovebox that does work, but I would like to get the original working again. I like my stuff as close to factory as i can get it.

P.S. It's been running on 2 cycle outboard oil. Good or bad?

[novs86]

battery is dead.....

[mousewheels]

For the turn signals and horn - one question - is your battery in good shape, fully charged the fuse is working and the terminal - to wire connections good? Neither will work well with a bad battery or fuse.

The starter switch sounds like it is not making good contact - since your bypassed switch is working fine

-- Start switch cleaning --
You can probably fix this problem w/o spending $$$, just some time working on your scooter.

Thanks much to 'Bradthree' we have a good example of a start switch in need of reconditioning. Bradthree donated a huge box of parts for Hondaspree to use for photos, and we'll have a good fall and winter going through them. Fall/winter is a the best time to think about fixing what's 'kind of working' or even 'not yet broken', you can recondition your electricals alongside the examples Bradthree provided.

Probably all that is needed is a dis-assembly and cleaning/polishing of all electrical contact areas. On this switch, I've used from toothpaste to metal polish and Scotch Brite pads (in that order) for the cleaning/polishing part.

Un-soldering the wires is not required, but can make the job easier, and in the end more reliable - flexing as the contacts are cleaned can fatigue the copper, leading to broken wire strands. That's worst case, let your judgment, and inclination to solder be a guide. If you'd like to avoid soldering, try to keep the wire flexing at the solder joint to the 'not much' side.

StartSwitch_1.jpg (44.06 KiB) Viewed 5369 times

StartSwitch_2.jpg (198.3 KiB) Viewed 5369 times

StartSwitch_3.jpg (223.89 KiB) Viewed 5371 times

StartSwitch_4.jpg (152.34 KiB) Viewed 5369 times

All it takes, is a cleanup of all the contact surfaces

• Spring to switch frame
• Spring to button
• Button contact
• Insulated contact on the switch frame

StartSwitch_5.jpg (161.34 KiB) Viewed 5369 times

StartSwitch_6.jpg (176.98 KiB) Viewed 5369 times

Ready for the wires to be re-soldered, this switch is ready to go.

StartSwitch_7.jpg (186.56 KiB) Viewed 5369 times

[Peetur]

Like I said I haven't really looked it over. I got to ride it for about 10 min around the neighborhood then i had to put it away for the night I will definitely check the starter contacts out tomorrow. As for the battery it has to be good. I don't have a kick start (85 aero) so the battery has to be good enough to start the engine. I will have to trace all the wires/fuses/bulbs when I get time. I'm guessing I will just have to get a new horn since it is getting power to run, it's just extremely weak. Thanks for the input.

[martynkim]

Likely battery or contacts. Unless the PO messed around with the wiring.

[mousewheels]

As for the battery it has to be good. I don't have a kick start (85 aero) so the battery has to be good enough to start the engine. I

Ah - , you did say your starter works with a bypassed switch, and the brake light works, As you say, Battery must be good, Fuse is fine...

The headlight high/low beam is powered by AC stator, so them working vs your DC powered items like the horn or start switch are independent issues. *Possibly* a bad frame ground on the thin green wire or at the battery is worth checking.

[z50r-ghost]

I just had to post for mousewheels,

Dude- your post and pictures are freaking TOP-NOTCH!!
Not just this post, but every post. You could not get more helpful and complete post than yours. You are the man!! Nice work!! Thanks!

-2 cycle outboard oil is made for water cooled engines. I wold recommend using Honda GN2 two-stroke oil inyour Aero. Its made for scooters / small 2 stroke motorcycles, and it will not cost you much more than what you are paying for now. Your Aero will benefit and last longer / run better due to less carbon deposits / better protection.

Later, jon

[martynkim]

For the turn signals and horn - one question - is your battery in good shape, fully charged the fuse is working and the terminal - to wire connections good? Neither will work well with a bad battery or fuse.

The starter switch sounds like it is not making good contact - since your bypassed switch is working fine

-- Start switch cleaning --
You can probably fix this problem w/o spending $$$, just some time working on your scooter.

Thanks much to 'Bradthree' we have a good example of a start switch in need of reconditioning. Bradthree donated a huge box of parts for Hondaspree to use for photos, and we'll have a good fall and winter going through them. Fall/winter is a the best time to think about fixing what's 'kind of working' or even 'not yet broken', you can recondition your electricals alongside the examples Bradthree provided.

Probably all that is needed is a dis-assembly and cleaning/polishing of all electrical contact areas. On this switch, I've used from toothpaste to metal polish and Scotch Brite pads (in that order) for the cleaning/polishing part.




Un-soldering the wires is not required, but can make the job easier, and in the end more reliable - flexing as the contacts are cleaned can fatigue the copper, leading to broken wire strands. That's worst case, let your judgment, and inclination to solder be a guide. If you'd like to avoid soldering, try to keep the wire flexing at the solder joint to the 'not much' side.

StartSwitch_1.jpg

StartSwitch_2.jpg

StartSwitch_3.jpg

StartSwitch_4.jpg

All it takes, is a cleanup of all the contact surfaces

• Spring to switch frame
• Spring to button
• Button contact
• Insulated contact on the switch frame

StartSwitch_5.jpg

StartSwitch_6.jpg

Ready for the wires to be re-soldered, this switch is ready to go.

StartSwitch_7.jpg

These are great pictures of a Spree but...... The problem is with an Aero completely different setup.

[Peetur]

-2 cycle outboard oil is made for water cooled engines. I wold recommend using Honda GN2 two-stroke oil inyour Aero. Its made for scooters / small 2 stroke motorcycles, and it will not cost you much more than what you are paying for now. Your Aero will benefit and last longer / run better due to less carbon deposits / better protection.

Later, jon

It didn't cost me anything. I just bought it today so that's what was in the tank from the previous owner. I will get other two stroke oil for the next tank. I guess I'll trace all the wires to and from the blinkers. I did download the manual from this wonderful site so i'll check out the wiring diagram. Thanks guys.

[mousewheels]

These are great pictures of a Spree but...... The problem is with an Aero completely different setup.

Good point martynkim Glad you pointed that out

Here's an Aero switch - Very similar construction for the electrical parts. Same sort of problems and clean up... I'll clean up all the parts and shoot a set of photos for the Aero assembly.

Dude- your post and pictures are freaking TOP-NOTCH!!

Thanks - at this time of year, I'm looking for scooter things to work on...

Honda_Aero_Start_Switch.JPG (32.54 KiB) Viewed 5344 times

[Peetur]

Yep that's the aero starter assembly. I took it apart today and found out it is no longer wired, so I wired it back up. Next I will clean it the contacts and if that doesn't do it trace the wires back. I think I solved my horn problem. The problem is...there is no horn unit. I'll have to locate one. Here is a pic of the buzzer that was installed instead? (black thing near bottom with loose pink wire)

In taking off the front I also found out why my ignition lock does not work. The cylinder that comes out to stop the steering doesn't even contact it. I tried to reconfigure it, but I think this may not be the right mount? Anyone have experience with this? Does it look right?

And finally two easy fixes just need some help getting parts. Anyone? Back piece and seat lock cylinder.


Still no dice on blinkers. I am going to really tear it apart and trace/test every connection with a multimeter.

[Bear45-70]

The center lens for the combination light is NLA (No Longer Available).

My choice would be to buy this and replace the whole assembly.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT

[Peetur]

So thats what its called. Its not really a deal breaker right now. I'll check ebay now and then for a used one. Eventually I'll need it to make it all nice and pretty. I"m just glad it runs and most of the things work. That will be last on the list. 1)Font fairing will be on it's way soon to cover up those wires, 2)blinkers, 3)Seat Lock, 4)horn/factory starter wired, 5)center lens

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I'm pretty sure I still have my Sportster Stock Horn, and positive I have a stock Aero and Spree units. PM if interested.

[martynkim]

So thats what its called. Its not really a deal breaker right now. I'll check ebay now and then for a used one. Eventually I'll need it to make it all nice and pretty. I"m just glad it runs and most of the things work. That will be last on the list. 1)Font fairing will be on it's way soon to cover up those wires, 2)blinkers, 3)Seat Lock, 4)horn/factory starter wired, 5)center lens

So thats what its called. Its not really a deal breaker right now. I'll check ebay now and then for a used one. Eventually I'll need it to make it all nice and pretty. I"m just glad it runs and most of the things work. That will be last on the list. 1)Font fairing will be on it's way soon to cover up those wires, 2)blinkers, 3)Seat Lock, 4)horn/factory starter wired, 5)center lens

Peetur,

I have not been able to ship your fairing as life has become more than busy this week. Too much overtime at work. For the delay, I will send the horn you need free of charge. I hope this helps with my inability to ship to you in a timely manner. My apologies Marty