Split throttle cable relevance SA50P

[hopkinsproshop]

I have just purchased a 2000 SA50P. It is currently not running and I am just familiarizing myself with it and checking things out. I also have a 1989 Elite 50 LX and I have been comparing the two for differences. On the 2000 model I noticed a difference in the throttle cable. It has a single cable whereas the 89 model has a Y cable one side going to the carb and one to the oil pump. The interesting thing is on the 2000 model with the single cable only running to the carb is someone has zip tied the lever on the oil pump to what appears to be wide open. There is no cable running to it but someone has zip tid it open.

My question is what would the benefit of doing that be?

Is this hurting anything?

Why does one have a split cable and one not?

Is a SA50P an SR model or an S? And what is the difference between the two, how do I tell?


I know these questions may be simpleton but I am just learning about these scooters and do not have a lot of knowledge, next to no knowledge about them. Thanks for your help.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

The absence of split cable is not due to model year. All the "P" models omit the feateur because Honda-san in his infinite wisdom saw no need for the additional expense on the restricted Elite S models.
The engines on the "P" models were restricted by means of a washer obstructing the exhaust header. Some have reported a plate in the intake tract as welll. At these lower RPM and output levels, additional oil at WOT evidently just isn't necessary.
However if as I suspect the previous owner de-restricted the pipe, and hopefully swapped the carb Main Jet for an SR-spec 78, tying the pump open is a Very Good Idea. In fact, even tied open the S pump does not deliver as much oil as the pumps on the SRs.
There's a thread about this early in 2010 where someone actually measured oil output per gallon. The SR pump supplies the equivalent of 50:1 premix tied open. The S pump produces only about 70:1.

I recommend you verify the scooter has been properly de-restricted. Look for evidence of grinding work in the header, a full-sized ramp plate - the S had a half-diameter affair. Above all be sure there's a 78 main in the carb.
Otherwise if the scooter exceeds 30 MPH it will be very lean with the stock 68 Main and risk overheating.

Welcome to the Forum.

[bmccaffry]

All very good info as always wheelman...do you know of any pics of this restriction in the intake tract? Or maybe what exactly that restriction looks like?

[hopkinsproshop]

Thanks for the info Wheelman.

The guy I purchased the scooter from claimed it would run 40 mph. Who knows if he was telling the truth or not. He quit using the scooter because he said it started to hesitate and bogg. It would idle but when he went to give it the gas it wouldn't take it, it would just bogg out. He became frustated and set it aside.

You mention there is a washer in the exhaust, where would that be located? You also mention he may have ground on the header some, would this be where it joins up to the exhaust port on the head? You mention too there may be a ramp plate in the intake tract? How would I tell if this is a full size ramp?

I have been doing some reading on increasing the bore size, should I decide to go this route would it be a good idea to switch out to a SR oil pump?

Thanks for the help!!

[eliteguy50]

If it did run 40MPH, then it has had the restrictions removed. An elite S is a solid 30mph.

The washer is located in the header of the exhaust pipe where it bolts up to the exhaust flange located on the cylinder, not the head. This washer can be ground out so that it is just a standard tube header for increased flow. The washer restriction brings the hole down to the size of a pinky finger. The ramp plate is not related to the intake tract. The ramp plate is on the back side of the Variator, the movable drive face in the belt drive system. Pull the belt cover and then the nut on the crank shaft. Pull the entire drive assembly off the shaft and you will see the ramp plate that slides in and out with roller weights between it and the drive face.

The SR oil pump is up to you. Either pump will require a supplement of oil added directly to the fuel in the fuel tank (aka premix) to keep from burning up an upgraded bore. Some people just remove the pump and use strictly pre-mixed fuel. If your sa50p has been de-restricted, you should run the SR pump on the stock bore and get the Y-cable to opperate it.

[hopkinsproshop]

Thanks Eliteguy

I will check for the restrictions or lack thereof. Not sure why it isn't running at the present, the guy could have burned it up, but it seems to have good compression when you kick it over.

Assuming I get it running. What would be the most bang for my buck as far as getting a little more acceleration or speed out of it? There seems to be so many directions in which to take it, increased bore, bigger carb, exhaust, gears, clutch, heavier springs in the clutch??? Should I gear it and then worry about the engine mods, or mod the engine first and then worry about gearing?

THANKS!!

[eliteguy50]

Bang for the buck varies as opinion but IMO:
variator and gears if you scooter has been derestricted. Also, punch out the second hole in your airbox and check that your carb is jetted properly.

I would do the stock ruckus variator if you don't mind grinding the case a little. For gears, 9.8:1 to keep the acceleration or 9.1:1 for top speed and allowing you room to grow if you decide to install an aftermarket bore.

[Feral_Sparky]

Thanks for the info Wheelman.

The guy I purchased the scooter from claimed it would run 40 mph. Who knows if he was telling the truth or not. He quit using the scooter because he said it started to hesitate and bogg. It would idle but when he went to give it the gas it wouldn't take it, it would just bogg out. He became frustated and set it aside.

You mention there is a washer in the exhaust, where would that be located? You also mention he may have ground on the header some, would this be where it joins up to the exhaust port on the head? You mention too there may be a ramp plate in the intake tract? How would I tell if this is a full size ramp?

I have been doing some reading on increasing the bore size, should I decide to go this route would it be a good idea to switch out to a SR oil pump?

Thanks for the help!!

My Elite was bogging down for months. And it would die at idle. Turned out to be a bad petcock. Replaced it with a new one, and it instantly ran 100% better. Just a thought.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

If you do go for a BBK, the oil pump should be pulled and replaced with a pump socket plug from VT cycles or whomever has them - about $10.

In exchange for the trouble of pre-mixing, you get more-consistent dosing of Precious Lubricating Fluids and eliminate the still uncertain art of predicting how much supplemental pre-mix to add to a pump-equipped engine. I did it for the 65cc Aero Polini and Malossi as well as the Nikasil on the Elite (Flash 3), but had little success with the more ambitious Ruima kits. The Corsa seems happy running 32:1.