DKAudio wrote:
The link you posted shows a picture of the carb, there is a black hose that loops around (vacuum?) On my Aero the black hose open to the air, it looks almost intentional and is pointing down. Should that hose be connected as shown in the picture? I wonder if that is part of the issue.
To answer my own question...I looked at my carb and it is a little different than the one pictured. I think my tube is supposed to be open to the air because there is no where I can see the other side to go. The tube on my carb is to the left and a little higher than the idle speed (throttle stop) screw.
I adjusted my air screw to 1 7/8th turns out and adjusted my idle speed (throttle stop) screw to just before lower than where my tire would spin and the engine would start reving on its own while on the stand. I have no clue how close this is to the spec'd 1800 RPM but it sounds good and the tire is stationary now.
I've noticed that I seem to have to give it a lot of gas when cold starting. Pretty much full throttle for a full second 3-4 times. Not sure if that is a clue. It is starting pretty good right now because it warmed up when I was messing with the idle screw. I will try another cold start tomorrow morning and see how it does. Finally, it is about 40 degrees out right now and I took it for a 2 mile ride. When I would give it throttle it would sometimes drop RPM to around idle and eventually it would take off and be as peppy as it should. Is that just because the air is so cold into the intake? The engine should've been fully warmed up on a 2 mile ride (I also let it idle for about 4 minutes before I rode it).
DKAudio wrote:
The link you posted shows a picture of the carb, there is a black hose that loops around (vacuum?) On my Aero the black hose open to the air, it looks almost intentional and is pointing down. Should that hose be connected as shown in the picture? I wonder if that is part of the issue.
To answer my own question...I looked at my carb and it is a little different than the one pictured. I think my tube is supposed to be open to the air because there is no where I can see the other side to go. The tube on my carb is to the left and a little higher than the idle speed (throttle stop) screw.
I adjusted my air screw to 1 7/8th turns out and adjusted my idle speed (throttle stop) screw to just before lower than where my tire would spin and the engine would start reving on its own while on the stand. I have no clue how close this is to the spec'd 1800 RPM but it sounds good and the tire is stationary now.
I've noticed that I seem to have to give it a lot of gas when cold starting. Pretty much full throttle for a full second 3-4 times. Not sure if that is a clue. It is starting pretty good right now because it warmed up when I was messing with the idle screw. I will try another cold start tomorrow morning and see how it does. Finally, it is about 40 degrees out right now and I took it for a 2 mile ride. When I would give it throttle it would sometimes drop RPM to around idle and eventually it would take off and be as peppy as it should. Is that just because the air is so cold into the intake? The engine should've been fully warmed up on a 2 mile ride (I also let it idle for about 4 minutes before I rode it).
Most of these carbs have at least one drain hose that connections to the atmosphere. A lot of them have a second hose that is a bowl vent that also connects to the atmosphere.
Bear 45/70
'83 Aero 80 X 3
'84 Aero 80 X 3 '85 Aero 80 '84 Aero 125 X 2
'84 Aero 125 '84 Aero 125 X 2 '85 Aero 50
'85 Spree
I can't figure this thing out, I've pretty much read the entire manual and did most of the trouble shooting that I thought relates to my issues.
I took off the fuel and vacuum lines going to the carb and sucked on the vacuum line, fuel flowed when I sucked and stopped when I didn't just like it is supposed to so it is not the fuel valve
I then checked the carb drain screw when I cranked and fuel came out just like it should so the carb is getting fuel.
Then checked my throttle valve and cable and that looked fine too.
I don't understand why it is hard to start and drops RPM's when riding. I took it on a short ride today (it was 70 out so at least I know it wasn't the cold effecting it) and it dropped RPM's, I was on the throttle 100% and it got worse and worse and finally died after about 3-4 seconds. My battery is pretty much shot so I had to walk the scooter home.
Is there anything else that you guys can think of? I am still on my mixed tank of gas and the oil pump is all primed, I wouldn't think too high a mixture would cause these issues but thought I would mention it anyways.
86 spree
sb 50 intake and reeds
3.00x10 rear tire
waxed
99Polaris indy 700
harliquim paint
2" bar riser
lefty throttle
ice scratchers
SLP tri keel skis
ported
high compression head
chrome low windshield
mountain bar
Xtra-10
I ALWAYS KEEP ONE ROLLED
spree-rider wrote:AIRFILTER, AIR BOX TUBE, AIR BOX LID, AIR LEAK
Airfilter, box and lid looks good. I can take apart the air box and check it more carefully though.
noiseguy wrote:Double the oil mix isn't helping things. Clear the tank and refill with regular fuel.
Air leak can cause hard start and overheating... have you checked for leaks around the carb?
Out of curiosity, have you removed the exhaust and looked inside? To see if it's blocked up or anything?
I will drain the gas tank. I have looked around the carb and everything seems attached with no cracked hoses or missing clamps. I have not removed the exhaust, should I try the camp fire thing?
spray any flammable AIROSAL around the carb and intake while the scoot is running. if the rpm get a little higher then you have an airleak.
86 spree
sb 50 intake and reeds
3.00x10 rear tire
waxed
99Polaris indy 700
harliquim paint
2" bar riser
lefty throttle
ice scratchers
SLP tri keel skis
ported
high compression head
chrome low windshield
mountain bar
Xtra-10
I ALWAYS KEEP ONE ROLLED
spree-rider wrote:spray any flammable AIROSAL around the carb and intake while the scoot is running. if the rpm get a little higher then you have an airleak.
Try Aerosol
Bear 45/70
'83 Aero 80 X 3
'84 Aero 80 X 3 '85 Aero 80 '84 Aero 125 X 2
'84 Aero 125 '84 Aero 125 X 2 '85 Aero 50
'85 Spree
Aero = Use Aerosol
Spree = Use Spreetzer bottle.
Elite = You're on yer own.
Me? I use an UN-lit propane torch. Be careful around the stator or anywhere it can quickly become a LIT propane torch.
Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
Sorry for the delay, I've been swamped with work and home repairs...
noiseguy wrote:Remove the exhaust and take a look. It will be obvious if that's the issue.
I took the exhaust off and looked down the downpipe as far as I could and it all looks clear, I can't see in very far though.
spree-rider wrote:spray any flammable AIROSAL around the carb and intake while the scoot is running. if the rpm get a little higher then you have an airleak.
I sprayed carb and choke cleaner while it was running and there was no change in RPM's.
DKAudio wrote: Finally, it is about 40 degrees out right now and I took it for a 2 mile ride. When I would give it throttle it would sometimes drop RPM to around idle and eventually it would take off and be as peppy as it should. Is that just because the air is so cold into the intake? The engine should've been fully warmed up on a 2 mile ride (I also let it idle for about 4 minutes before I rode it).
My Spree would do this when I lived in MI and went riding in cold weather, if I didn't let it warm up enough first.
Actually, it would do it all the time if I tried to just start and ride it. Needed about 1 minute of idling to warm up first.
