I lost the battle against the rear axle nut!

jaesun · Post by **jaesun** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:32 pm

I thought that I needed to remove the rear wheel to change the tire. After using PB blaster, modest heat (mini butane torch), and an electric impact wrench (Harbor Freight), I gave up. I eventually figured out how to change the tire by leaving the axle nut alone.

I did a search and read up on various ways from this forum. My biggest problem was that I couldn't use any leverage with a breaker bar since I couldn't keep the wheel from turning. I'm going to try again this winter when I take the entire thing apart. I can probably do a better job of keeping the wheel in place when it's removed from the frame.

I do have a question: If I use a standard sized propane torch, could the heat fry anything?

Also: How much play in the rear wheel is too much? I have a little, but I'm hoping that it's normal. After the tire change, I went on a ride, and everything appeared alright.

Trafficjamz · Post by **Trafficjamz** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:57 pm

jaesun wrote:
I do have a question: If I use a standard sized propane torch, could the heat fry anything?

There is an oil seal in there that may not like the heat of a propane torch

Why not ock the rear brake to obtain leverage?

305elite · Post by **305elite** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:24 pm

stick a bar of some sort through the wheel so that it locks down against the frame...then use like a 3-4 ft piece of pipe as a breaker bar and it will break loose...ive done this multiple times and it seems tobe very effective

motormike · Post by **motormike** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:29 pm

....Well done jaesun...changing a tire with the wheel still on the bike is no small feat....especially with the tube surviving .... .....you're innovative thinking is right out of Old School 101.....should you wish to try this, place a pipe, bar something to stop the wheel from spinning, through the holes in the wheel...careful not to over-torque to the point of bending the wheel....OR, leave bike OFF the stand and have your buddies fat sister sit on it.....

martynkim · Post by **martynkim** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:39 pm

motormike wrote:....Well done jaesun...changing a tire with the wheel still on the bike is no small feat....especially with the tube surviving .... .....you're innovative thinking is right out of Old School 101.....should you wish to try this, place a pipe, bar something to stop the wheel from spinning, through the holes in the wheel...careful not to over-torque to the point of bending the wheel....OR, leave bike OFF the stand and have your buddies fat sister sit on it.....

Now, this is the best Idea! I have a fat-assed sister in Law you can have if you need one.

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 7:33 pm

One step further try using a broomstick, the wood will give before it bends your rim etc

Carnie · Post by **Carnie** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:00 pm

My back break is located on my left handle. I locked it in place to keep the wheel from turning.

speedy25 · Post by **speedy25** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:48 pm

As an expert on rusty stuff, I can tell you a propane torch is a waste. It just isnt hot enough. But it is hot enough to melt that seal previously mentioned if the heat is applied long enough. Oxy-acetylene is the ONLY way to get rusty parts apart.

There should be NO play in the wheels. All they should do is spin true and easily.

-SP

Bear45-70 · Post by **Bear45-70** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:52 pm

Use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Best penetration oil on the planet.

jaesun · Post by **jaesun** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:22 pm

The rear brakes are worn so they weren't giving a good enough grip. I tried to contort myself holding the rear brake, sitting on the seat, and pushing down on the breaker bar, but I stopped before I hurt myself.

I'll try jamming a 2x4 through the rear wheel next time I get around to it. If not a total replacement, I should at the very least give the brake shoes a good clean. It's a good thing that I didn't try a propane torch!

eliteguy50 · Post by **eliteguy50** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:13 am

jaesun wrote:The rear brakes are worn so they weren't giving a good enough grip. I tried to contort myself holding the rear brake, sitting on the seat, and pushing down on the breaker bar, but I stopped before I hurt myself.

I'll try jamming a 2x4 through the rear wheel next time I get around to it. If not a total replacement, I should at the very least give the brake shoes a good clean. It's a good thing that I didn't try a propane torch!

If you had damaged the seal, they are only a couple bucks.

JJ Joseph · Post by **JJ Joseph** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:29 pm

jaesun wrote: My biggest problem was that I couldn't use any leverage with a breaker bar since I couldn't keep the wheel from turning.

No need to use a propane torch! Just stick a piece of 2x4 through the wheel and apply your electric impact wrench. It'll break free quickly. You can't hold the wheel with the brake - not strong enough. Or (with the 2x4) use a 2' long breaker bar and stand on the breaker bar. It's about 200ft-lbs, so you might have to bounce on the breaker bar. But don't use a torch!

Bear45-70 · Post by **Bear45-70** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:47 pm

JJ Joseph wrote:
jaesun wrote: My biggest problem was that I couldn't use any leverage with a breaker bar since I couldn't keep the wheel from turning.
No need to use a propane torch! Just stick a piece of 2x4 through the wheel and apply your electric impact wrench. It'll break free quickly. You can't hold the wheel with the brake - not strong enough. Or (with the 2x4) use a 2' long breaker bar and stand on the breaker bar. It's about 200ft-lbs, so you might have to bounce on the breaker bar. But don't use a torch!

If someone tightened the nut to 200 ft/lbs they way over torqued the nut, since the highest number I find is 72 ft/lbs. Using a metal stop on the rim is a NO-NO as you can bend the rim, the wood acts as a shock absorber and protects the wheel from warping.

motormike · Post by **motormike** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:25 pm

even wood can bend the wheel spoke and cause damage if the torque required to break it loose is great enough.....impact is safer, for sure, but sometimes the gun just dont have the guts.......

nothing ever goes exactly as planned..............Murphy

Bear45-70 · Post by **Bear45-70** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:29 pm

motormike wrote:even wood can bend the wheel spoke and cause damage if the torque required to break it loose is great enough.....impact is safer, for sure, but sometimes the gun just dont have the guts.......

The only nut my 1/2" impart with 150 PSI air won't knock loose is a pinion nut on a Ford 9" 31 spline differential, but then it torques to over 250 ft/lbs. The 3/4" drive gun will though.

Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums