Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
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Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
1985 NQ50. Always garage stored. In general good working order except for electrical gremlins.
Have replaced the battery yearly and the battery must be disconnected after every ride else it will discharge.
Have read the manual and section 14-6 recommends a "leak" test. Performed this test and with key off, the voltage reads 12.3v on the M-meter.
Removed all of the plastic and checked every terminal and frame ground. I found no faulty, corroded or otherwise problematic terminal connections.
SEARCHED this site and read posts regarding the regulator rectifier being a possible source of "leak"(current draw), but all the issues I read about didn't seem to match my problems exactly.
I appreciate the help.
Thanks.
Have replaced the battery yearly and the battery must be disconnected after every ride else it will discharge.
Have read the manual and section 14-6 recommends a "leak" test. Performed this test and with key off, the voltage reads 12.3v on the M-meter.
Removed all of the plastic and checked every terminal and frame ground. I found no faulty, corroded or otherwise problematic terminal connections.
SEARCHED this site and read posts regarding the regulator rectifier being a possible source of "leak"(current draw), but all the issues I read about didn't seem to match my problems exactly.
I appreciate the help.
Thanks.
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Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
Upon further inspection, I tested the headlight.
It hasn't worked in years, and I thought that the bulb was faulty. It in fact works!
Just does not light up.
Could this be related to the rectifier and "leak" issue.
I am more interested in having the battery drain, but if I could get the headlight functioning again...it'd be a bonus.
It hasn't worked in years, and I thought that the bulb was faulty. It in fact works!
Just does not light up.
Could this be related to the rectifier and "leak" issue.
I am more interested in having the battery drain, but if I could get the headlight functioning again...it'd be a bonus.
Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
Your meter is on voltage setting. Put it on amperage setting and see what it says. Should be less than .3 (honestly it should be 0).
Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
Plug the. Black lead into "10a" and rotate the dial too "a". That's amperage rating. It should be like 3-5 when the keys on, 0.3 or less off.
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Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
benji wrote:Plug the. Black lead into "10a" and rotate the dial too "a". That's amperage rating. It should be like 3-5 when the keys on, 0.3 or less off.
Just so I am not missing something. I was following the test prescribed in the manual on page 14-6.
Can you advise regarding the amperage test you noted?
Why would it be the same for key on or off?
What might this mean regarding my "no headlight, no blinker(blinking) and battery drain while key is off" issues?
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Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
try to unplug your regulator rectifier and see if the voltage goes away they are doing a voltage drop test it's confusing does your regulator rectifier get hot ?
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Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
Trying the test as prescribed by Benji, I performed the following.
KEY OFF
Disconnect Neg battery terminal
MM set to Amperes.
Red MM lead to Ground wire.
Black MM lead to neg battery post.
Reading is as follows.
There was NO difference between KEY ON or KEY OFF. Reading stayed the same.
KEY OFF
Disconnect Neg battery terminal
MM set to Amperes.
Red MM lead to Ground wire.
Black MM lead to neg battery post.
Reading is as follows.
There was NO difference between KEY ON or KEY OFF. Reading stayed the same.
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Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
you could have a blown fuse in your meter does your horn blow with the meter hooked up like in the your picture ?
Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
Actually, it's a "leak down" test, or test to see how much current is flowing. When the key is off nothing should be on, so no amperage is being used.
I still think it's a bad ground somewhere. Check for ground at the socket by putting the black lead on the metal housing (not the contacts) and put the red lead to the positive side of the battery. It should read 12 volts, I bet it doesnt. If it doesn't, redo the ground but tie in both sides of the cut ground lead.
I still think it's a bad ground somewhere. Check for ground at the socket by putting the black lead on the metal housing (not the contacts) and put the red lead to the positive side of the battery. It should read 12 volts, I bet it doesnt. If it doesn't, redo the ground but tie in both sides of the cut ground lead.
Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
Sorry please disregard my last few posts, wrong topic haha. I think wwolvert might be right about the regulator.
Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
Could be possible you have a blown main fuse also. The bike would still run but you wouldn't get any accesorys. Happens to me when my batt connection falls off.
Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
My option would be if your ignition is in the off position the only other circuit with voltage is your regulator I don't know what else it could be but i think your regulator would get warm when the battery is connected if it was shorted out
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Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
wwolvert wrote:you could have a blown fuse in your meter does your horn blow with the meter hooked up like in the your picture ?
When I have the MM setup as shown.
There is no DC to the horn or tailight.
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Re: Electrical help Needed: elec. leak, etc.
Your meter should complete the circuit you have a blown fuse in your meter try the voltage drop test shown in your manual like you where doing first and unplug your regulator if your voltage goes away with your key off your regulator is shorted out and needs replaced . that's my best guess any ways