Petcock Leaking and Dies Under Throttle

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mrohovie
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Petcock Leaking and Dies Under Throttle

Post by mrohovie »

Okay, I fixed the carb leak.

Now the Petcock is leaking from under the nut, not from the threads into the tank. Anybody have this prblem before? The o-ring is in rough shape, so I ordered another one, but does that only seal it from the threaded part going in to the tank?


Also, the scooter starts awesome now, and I drove it down the street (with throttle) then it died, now it still starts awesome, but always dies under any kind of throttle. Any ideas?
joeweir1
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Post by joeweir1 »

I am working thru the same problem with it dieng under load.It starts and revs nice on the center stand, but will die when trying to ride.I will let you know if I figure it out.I am going in circles on this one.Joe
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tru72
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Post by tru72 »

dying under load is usually caused by a bad reed, check to see if its flat, with no gaps..
aloha
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joeweir1
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Post by joeweir1 »

tru72-Now will it die under load just when hot or will it do it when cold too.Mine will run great under load for a few minutes then it starts to bog out.I did pull the reeds and one had a very minute gap and I was able to make it better, but that did not change anything.You would think it would do it all the time if it was the reeds.I have a bunch of posts on here since trying to trouble shoot this problem and I'm about ready to give up.I ahve alreadys gone thru the carb. bystarter compression checks a few neww plugs, plug chop tests, replaced orings on carb..
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Post by tru72 »

im going to guess its the reeds, if there is a gap, no matter how small it affects the bike. did you try flipping them over? Also does the bike rev up under no load, like on the stand? Im assuming you checked for manifold leaks, spraying carb cleaned on the selected areas will tell you if its leaking. Lol hows the exhaust too? sorry its so hard to figure out something especailly when its not in my hands fooling with it hehe
keep me posted!
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Post by joeweir1 »

Thanks for the help-Ok I did flip the reeds, but the gap was worse so I put them back and tried to get the one as flat as possible and no change.Will a gap only cause problems after it warms up?This bike is like clockwork, it will run and ride great for a few minutes after a cold start then the bogging out starts.Has lots of power.Also, I did replace orings on carb and still checked for leaks with starting fluid with no change.Yes, the bike revs nicely on the center stand!It starts easy and idles fine, but may have a slight miss.I thought maybe the coil or CDI might be breaking down possibly, butnot so sure about that.Exhaust seems good, but I have nothing to compare it to.I did try burning it out and got some smoke to come out.thanks
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tru72
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Post by tru72 »

yes, its extremely rare for a cdi or coil to burn out, most times the pickup in the stator goes first. Just wondering, did you try and check your spark plug cap? i know it starts and it has spark, but sometimes the small clip inside doesnt hold the plug on good, that can cause sputtering like carb/cdi problems. Your best bet is to find someone with a bike like yours, swap out the cdi, coil, reeds.. thats the only way you can find out whats bad by the process of elimination..
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joeweir1
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Post by joeweir1 »

I took the cap off about a week ago because I thought it may be a problem.The little clip is in it.I wanted to clip a small piece of the plug wire off to make sure I had a good connection to the cap.But when I tried ohming the coil out I got no reading.I took the cap on and off acouple of times and ohmed it out by itself and it showed it was open.I had to wiggle the little screw to get a reading.I have installed a standard pop on type plug cap you would see on a lawn mower/chain saw etc. and having the same problem.How sensitive are these to the cap?Do you think my best bet is the reeds?I am just confused as to it running good for the first few minutes on a cold start and then after a few minutes it wants to die??????????thanks
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DrZ34
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Post by DrZ34 »

Not for nothing check the polarity on the primary side of the coil. It WILL run if there bakwards but the coil will overheat (also a smaller but runnable spark, that may miss underload)
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Post by joeweir1 »

The green wire is going to the connector with the green marking on it and black on black.That is correct is it not?thanks
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Post by mrohovie »

hey guys thats for all of the input.

I fixed the petcock with a new o-ring and now the bike take throttle (on the kick stand), but as soon as I sit on it and try to drive it, it bogs down and doesn't take any load.

Do you think it is the reed? Keep in mind, although the bike is from 1986, it only has 187 original kilometres on it. Would it go bad over time?
joeweir1
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Post by joeweir1 »

You and I are having the same problem.I have been told the reeds will do this, but should do it under load or just sitting on the center stand and hard to start.I was told I may just be running too lean.Get the bike to stall and then pull the plug and see how it looks.Mine looked white indicating lean condition.You could try spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner around any area that should be sealed of air leaks and see if that changes how it runs.Let me know what you find.Joe
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Post by mrohovie »

I stalled the scooter and pulled the plug. Indicated that it was normal (light brown).

Carb is clean, plus is new and gapped right, intake or exhaust is not plugged. ....I'm at a complete loss.
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Post by joeweir1 »

At a complete loss!Sounds exactly like me two weeks ago!I gave up for now.tru72 thinks it is my reeds.Did you pull them?Mine had one with a slight gap and it is also weaker than the other. My problems reminds me of my old push mower(4 cycle), it would start and idle great, but when I started to cut the grass it would bog out.Turns out a burnt exhaust valve.New valve and it was fixed.I realize these scoots do not have valves like the 4 stroke, but I coud see where a small gap like in my mower would cause a loss of power under load if crank pressure was dropping too fast.I'm waiting to get some reeds and see what happens.Joe
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DrZ34
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Post by DrZ34 »

joeweir1 wrote:The green wire is going to the connector with the green marking on it and black on black.That is correct is it not?thanks

Yes I believe it is
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