rebuild
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- CBR1000RR
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 11:51 am
- Location: Southern Michigan
compreshon test
ya that was cold though is that to much compresion?
130 psi cold is really good, skip enven touching that cylinder! Do other upgrades, don't touch that little jug jet! I think if its running good, just give it a good look over. I think the engine is fine, a good work over could be cleaning the carb out, at least pull the float boal and check for rust dirt, probably most of your touch up will be trans speed variator related. I wouldn't mess with the engine unless you want to get more speed. As far as carbon build up, you would have really hi compression and it wouldn't be running good. You said it runs great so I think its not carbon, just a good seated cylinder that has been well taken cared of. My 2 cents Peter
compresion test
what is trans speed variator related?
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- CBR1000RR
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 11:51 am
- Location: Southern Michigan
Re: compresion test
The trans is fixed gearing and not something that should/needs to be be messed with.ANDREW wrote:what is trans speed variator related?
I am not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV. Actually my advice is probably worth slightly less than what you pay to view it.
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- Noob
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 9:13 pm
compresion test
can sombody tell me if i did the compresion test right?
I hooked up the compresion gauge and then pressed the starter button till the needle on the compresion gauge stoped it was about ten seconds.
did i do it right?
I hooked up the compresion gauge and then pressed the starter button till the needle on the compresion gauge stoped it was about ten seconds.
did i do it right?
Compression check should be done with the engine hot after a run as the numbers are different. But based on what I know, cold at 130 is really good. If you have low comression, you can identify if its the rings by a simple test, pull the spark plug, add a little 2 stroke oil, like a teaspoon, run the piston up and down a time or two with the starter, or a few more by hand then do another compression check. The pressure will jump up cuz the oil will seal the rings and cylinder wall. If it jumps up a little, all is good, if it jumps up alot, tells you the walls and or rings are worn. On a 4 stroke, if it doesn't improve the compression reading, the valves are leaking.
As for the speed variator, I don't agree. On a Elite, I would check the speed variator. My elite looks new, runs to 35 mph and had flat spots big time on all the rollers. Take it apart and clean it out and if the rollers have flat spots replace the rollers. Its easy and doesn't hurt only improves!
As for the speed variator, I don't agree. On a Elite, I would check the speed variator. My elite looks new, runs to 35 mph and had flat spots big time on all the rollers. Take it apart and clean it out and if the rollers have flat spots replace the rollers. Its easy and doesn't hurt only improves!
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- CBR1000RR
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 11:51 am
- Location: Southern Michigan
The spree has no variator.itzmepete wrote:
As for the speed variator, I don't agree. On a Elite, I would check the speed variator. My elite looks new, runs to 35 mph and had flat spots big time on all the rollers. Take it apart and clean it out and if the rollers have flat spots replace the rollers. Its easy and doesn't hurt only improves!
I am not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV. Actually my advice is probably worth slightly less than what you pay to view it.
If you want to see the piston, rings and cylinder without a engine take down. Try this.
Remove exhaust and use an inspection mirror and light. Looking into the exhaust port, holding the mirror and light at the right angle.
Turn the engine over slowly and you will see all the damage, if any to the walls, rings and piston.
Carbon buildup can be removed at the same time as well.
I gotta feeling all you going to find is only some carbon build up.
Let us know what you see.
Thanks, greg
Remove exhaust and use an inspection mirror and light. Looking into the exhaust port, holding the mirror and light at the right angle.
Turn the engine over slowly and you will see all the damage, if any to the walls, rings and piston.
Carbon buildup can be removed at the same time as well.
I gotta feeling all you going to find is only some carbon build up.
Let us know what you see.
Thanks, greg
rebuild
ok i saw some light scoring on the piston i couldent see the cilender wall the rings looked really black and they almost looked like the were rusty also there is a big bump inside the exhaust port i couldent tell if it were carbon or not is this normal?
With the piston in the down position you should be able to see the far wall of the cylinder. A led flash light works great for this.
Using a wooden popcycle stick, with the piston in the far upward position, scrape open the exhaust port as well as you can.
That the bump your seeing. The port is oval shaped. Before moving piston back down, use compressed air to blow out any loose carbon.
Using a wooden popcycle stick, with the piston in the far upward position, scrape open the exhaust port as well as you can.
That the bump your seeing. The port is oval shaped. Before moving piston back down, use compressed air to blow out any loose carbon.
130 PSI is too high. Probably a combination of carbon build-up in exhaust port and carbon on the head.
Clean up both and recheck compression on re-assemble. If compression drops much below 100 re-hone and install new rings if the cylinder isn't scored.
Clean up both and recheck compression on re-assemble. If compression drops much below 100 re-hone and install new rings if the cylinder isn't scored.
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