runs-stops-runs-stops it does this continuously ???

Trying to get your Spree/Elite to run, or run better? Post your questions here.

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mikehailwood
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Post by mikehailwood »

Hey, ripps! I viewed your snapfish pictures and that is not a Spree carb. It is a Keihin and it has the electric choke but it is all oriented differently than the Spree carb. Still, the one photo was helpful I believe, the one which viewed the carb from the top down into the areas where the throttle slide and the choke go. With everything apart (slide removed, choke removed, float bowl and float removed) you should have 3 tubes suspended from the bottom of the carb. These 3 tubes would be submerged in gas when the float bowl is full. The largest tube contains the main jet and is directly down the center of the carb where the throttle slide goes. You should be able to see through this jet. Another tube is at the center of where the choke needle goes. You should be able to see through this hole. The 3rd tube (if there are only 3) is the idle jet. You should be able to see through this hole as well. On a Spree carb I have to go into a pitchdark room or closet with a mini-mag light. I hold my turned-on light against the top of the carb where the throttle slide goes and I look into the idle jet tube from the bottom of the carb. The angle must be perfect to see light through this tiny hole (less than .010" I would guess). On the Spree carb it helps to hold a finger over the main jet tube so as not to be distracted by that light. If you see light through the idle jet tube, your idle jet is clear. One other thing, on the Spree carb, the bowl has a wall between the choke tube area and the rest of the float bowl. There is a small hole in this wall for gas to run from the main area of the bowl to the area aroung the choke tube. If this hole is not open, no gas can go to the choke jet and supply the extra gas for cold starting and the engine will not start. The only other helpful picture might be one of the bottom of the carb with the float removed and a picture of the inside of the float bowl. Hope this helps.
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noiseguy
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Post by noiseguy »

To me, it looks like an '87 Elite, with a replaced headlamp/handlebar assembly from a Spree. The motor looks like the '88 - '93 Elite unit, based on pics I've seen of them.

Where is this thing located?
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Post by noiseguy »

Couple more pics of the non-Spree carb. What's that funny rubber tube that goes to nowhere for? If I remember correctly, the idle jet is next to the main jet. The main jet is the removable one in the middle. The choke circuit is off to the side.

Image

Image
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Post by noiseguy »

Reread all the posts. Here's my list of things to check:

1) Need to ID the carb and engine year. Spree settings may not be right for this. I believe you have an '88 - '93 Elite SA50 or some such.
2) Missing airscrew? Are you sure you have the right one now, i.e. the right year? Spree part might not be right.
3) Check to see if your idle jet is clear using carb fluid (not sure if you did.)
4) Did you check compression on this thing?
5) Replace your plug.
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ripps
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Post by ripps »

I glad you were able to access the pic's.

THere is a tiny hole going to the seperate choke area. Carb. cleaner come through both ways. I have ramed carb. cleaner through each and all of the other holes I'm 99% sure they are clear. I'll Have to do the light check later.

Mikehailwood I'll get those pic's up tonight or tomarrow I'm going to be gone the rest of the day today.

The, whatever the bike is, is located in husticford Wisconsin. If you were to draw a line between milwaukee and madison, right in the center of that line, draw a line strait up about one third the length of the first that is about where it's located.

I'm not sure what that funny looking hose is, but it was on there so I figured I should leave it there.

Not sure about the air screw, it fit though. The carbs. look similar just switched aroud a bit. Maybe I could try to put the spree carb. on the other thing. I've taken a techumseh 3.5 horse float carb. and replaced it on a briggs 5.0 that had a strait carb. it worked.

If I missed anything I'm sorry. I'll reread and answer them later. I've got to get going.

Thanks everyone for all the help!!!!

I'll post next, by tomarrow.

THANKS,
BRYAN
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vette76
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Post by vette76 »

yes that is an elite. that tube doesnt go anywhere.it is just like the metal tube molded in the side of the spree carb. ontl this it rubber.
00' sa-50 slammed and stretched
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
87' mustang gt vert kenne bell, irs.
90' mustang notch turbo drag car
12' wrx
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vette76
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Post by vette76 »

can u send me a pic of the side of the carb with the adjustment screws. that tube is in the wrong place i believe.
00' sa-50 slammed and stretched
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
87' mustang gt vert kenne bell, irs.
90' mustang notch turbo drag car
12' wrx
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vette76
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Post by vette76 »

after further inspecton i have found that that is an aero carb. i still dont think thats how it goes together tho. noiseguy has the manual so he might be able to help you.
00' sa-50 slammed and stretched
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
87' mustang gt vert kenne bell, irs.
90' mustang notch turbo drag car
12' wrx
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peter1sp
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Post by peter1sp »

alright, here is what I could dig up.

Image

This is a pic of the Elite Carb, which is what you have
** After some consideration... it is highly likeyl that this is actually an Aero like Vette said and I am just a moron, but in any case... here you go.

Also, some other things to check.
1. The oil injection. Make sure you are running at the desired mixture ratio. More oil will "lean out" your gas to air mixture. After 1993, there was no adjustment but before that you could adjust the amount of oil being sent to the carb. If there were no problems before, you should be OK but if you intend to fiddle with it, do the adjustment before playing with your main jet. Also make sure you were not leaking oil from the various connections. If so replace the tubing or the clamp that secures the tubing.

2. Check and clean the filters leading from both the oil and gas tanks. Both filters are located right at the respective tanks where the lines exit from the tank. They should be visually inspected and then blown with compressed air to remove any debris that has collected.

3. Check that neither the fuel line nor the oil lines are kinked and restricting flow.

4. Check the fuel float level in the carburetor.


All this was found at
http://www3.telus.net/dougsimpson/Elite_1.html


Spree/Elite 50, Aero 125, Elite 80/125/150/250, Helix bystarter (choke)
These models use an electric "choke". It's not a standard choke, in the sense that it doesn't choke off the flow of air (and make the fuel/air ratio richer). It is a device that shuts off the flow of air to the starting circuit as the scooter warms up. The bystarter is a small, black cylindrical device with two wires coming out of it. When the engine is running, 12V are applied to these wires. Over about 10 minutes or so, the bystarter warms up as the enging warms up. There is some wax in the bystarter (believe it or not) that is heated by a small heater. It expands, and extends the bystarter needle about 1/8". This is enough to close off the starting circuit.

After a number of years, the device builds up electrical resistance and it doesn't do its job any more. A new bystarter has a resistance of about 4 ohms. When resistance builds to over 10 ohms, it should be replaced.

The only sure way to tell if it is bad is to do the full test as described in the service manual. This involves removing the carb and leaving the bystarter attached. Draw a vacuum in the starting circuit outlet. There should be little resistance when the bystarter is cold and plenty of resistance when the bystarter has been heated up. A bad bystarter will either not expand properly or not contract properly.

There is a simple test that works almost as well. Remove the bystarter and examine it. Are the wires in good shape? Is the needle in good shape? Nothing looks broken? Hook up a 12V source to the two wires. After about 10 mintues, the bystarter should become warm, and extend the needle about 1/8" or so. Measure it with a pair of verneer calipers or whatever you have handy. If it extends properly it's probably ok. See the table at the end of this page for proper values.

Finding replacements can be difficult. The Elite 125 & 150 bystarters can be replaced with one from a '87 Elite 150. Honda still seems to be making these. The cost is around $65. Replacements for the Elite 250 bystarter can be obtained by ordering a Honda Helix part (they essentially share the same engine). The Elite 80, 125/150 and Elite 250 bystarters are not interchangeable, because they are different lengths

From
http://www.jacksscootershop.com/honda_info.html
1981 CM400 C... Former Rides: 1986 Honda NQ50
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vette76
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Post by vette76 »

i have an elite and the carb looks nothing like that. that is an aero eng.
00' sa-50 slammed and stretched
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
87' mustang gt vert kenne bell, irs.
90' mustang notch turbo drag car
12' wrx
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peter1sp
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Post by peter1sp »

fine be that way... haha :lol: Just bored and thought I'd throw in my two cents.

Besides.. I did have the disclaimer. so there... :D
1981 CM400 C... Former Rides: 1986 Honda NQ50
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hondaman
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Post by hondaman »

One way to settle it.
Take the whole thing to a certified Honda Motorcycle, Scooter Shop and let them tell you what it is. This could go on and on and on.
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surfugsto
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Post by surfugsto »

the honda shop ripps people off so much its ridiculous
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