PLUG CHOP REUSLTS : Running Lean PLEASE HELP! 1985 SPREE

kaaos82 · Post by **kaaos82** » Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:42 pm

Ok, so, my Carb is clean, and I decided id do a Plug chop and see if im running right.

The problem is After running full throttle for 8 or so miles every time I come back and check the plug its still nice and WHITE arggggg. Is it as simple as just adjust the Screw with the Spring on it, and the other screw (airscrew?) on the Carb to get it running properly....or am I looking at something more serious??

Is 8 Miles of Full throttle long enough for a Plug Chop??

And Please tell which screw is which 100%

What is the name of the Screw with the Spring on it
and
What is the proper name for the other screw on the carb?

And what way do I turn them to Adjust Idle, Make the Scooter run Richer, etc

HERES PIX:

New Plug After 8 Miles at Full Throttle :

OLD Plug Ive Been Running for about 2-3 Weeks All Around Town...its perfect Color, but then again hits Idle and all that too

Keoni · Post by **Keoni** » Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:47 pm

You plug looks good to me man, the porcelan in the center is white but it won't disclolor for a long time, every where else it is nice and dark.

EDIT: I missed the other questions, Idle screws tend to stick out the most and have a spring you can see externally, Air screws and set inside the carb body and do not have a pring you can see externally.

kaaos82 · Post by **kaaos82** » Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:48 pm

I thought I was supposta be looking at the porcelain for the chop...

you sure?

Keoni · Post by **Keoni** » Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:56 pm

Is the Spree modified at all? If not it isn't hard to get it to run correctly, perhaps you may be analyzing it too much?

CharlotteSpreeRider · Sat Jun 07, 2008 11:09 pm

How's your oil flow situation? Are you SURE that you are getting enough oil?

There are three screws. The two on the top both have springs. The one on the bottom is the bowl drain. That should always be shut all the way unless you are purposely draining the bowl for some reason. The top screw is the idle air screw. It affects idle speed. The middle screw is the idle mixture screw, which affects fuel/air ratio at idle. It should be set to spec (85 is 1.5 turns out from seated as I recall). The top screw should be adjusted such that it doesn't stall out when warm, but the rear wheel does not start turning with the bike on the stand.

You are running awfully lean, IMHO. I would expect to at least see some discoloration there. How's your airbox, and is the lid free of holes and tightly sealed to the box? You might have an air leak somewhere. The other possibility is that you did something like I did yesterday and ran the thing too hard. 8 miles is about 7 miles farther than you need for a plug chop. I think the general consensus is 1 mile. You may have started to overheat the thing with 8 miles at WOT (which leans the * out of it).

-aseigler

kaaos82 · Post by **kaaos82** » Sat Jun 07, 2008 11:28 pm

No mods

my middle screw doesnt have a spring, only the top one, and all pics ive seen online dont show a spring for the middle screw on the carb

Airbox is just fine, although I need to clean my filter.

Besides that im kinda clueless.

Charlotte: Do you judge the chop off the porcelain when you read?

I think that may be why my bike was stalling out when id WOT right when id turn it on, then itd be ok once I took off. Ugh stressful

CharlotteSpreeRider · Sat Jun 07, 2008 11:35 pm

Your middle screw does have a spring (or at least it's supposed to), you just can't see it. Only the top screw has a spring that is fully exposed. Either way, those only affect idle, so it doesn't matter so long as there is no leak and they're not backed out WAY too far so that they would affect the main.

Yes, you look at the porcelain. Yours is definitely lean, but the picture sucks (blurry). Try it again, but only go *1* mile this time. And make sure you're getting oil. The manual tells how to bleed the oil lines. You want to make d*** good and sure the oil pump is working, else you will fry this hog in no time (especially running 8 miles straight at WOT, my Spree would have a meltdown if I tried that).

-aseigler

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sat Jun 07, 2008 11:39 pm

Your running lean for sure, air leak is my bet. Screw are for idle only, set to factory specs and leave them alone, there should be sporings on the upper 2 ton the flathead one that adjusts mixture it is hiden in the carb body, without a spring the screw would rattle out and make it do this.

kaaos82 · Post by **kaaos82** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 1:16 am

I do remember now it does have a screw, my bad. heh

Ive ridden the Spree almost 400 miles now WOT all the time no mods on it, so Im not sure whats happening.

What exactly should I be doing....how do I check an air leak, etc.

And the Porcelain looks untouched on the Spark Plug in person too...sorry for the bad cam pic.....but its still pure white in person.

Ugh how the * am I gunna fix this? So stressful....I put the Idle & Airscrew to factory settings(had them there before too) and im still running lean with a cleaned carb.

Would Cleaning the Air Filter fix anything?

kaaos82 · Post by **kaaos82** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 1:18 am

CharlotteSpreeRider wrote:Your middle screw does have a spring (or at least it's supposed to), you just can't see it. Only the top screw has a spring that is fully exposed. Either way, those only affect idle, so it doesn't matter so long as there is no leak and they're not backed out WAY too far so that they would affect the main.

Yes, you look at the porcelain. Yours is definitely lean, but the picture sucks (blurry). Try it again, but only go *1* mile this time. And make sure you're getting oil. The manual tells how to bleed the oil lines. You want to make d*** good and sure the oil pump is working, else you will fry this hog in no time (especially running 8 miles straight at WOT, my Spree would have a meltdown if I tried that).

-aseigler

Also Im pretty certain my oil pump is working fine, as my oil is going down like it should normally....

jstone · Post by **jstone** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 1:20 am

Just stand back and look at the carb, air box, the hose going from the airbox to the carb, and the intake manifold. The ONLY place that air should enter into that system is through the 2 holes on the side of the airbox cover.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:05 am

Blowing an unlit propane torch in that area and listening for a change in RPMs would tell you where any leaks are.

vanbry · Post by **vanbry** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 9:46 am

How 'bout checking where the clip is set for the needle on the throttle slide. Move the clip higher(making the needle set lower) to richen up the mix a bit.

keithw · Post by **keithw** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 11:12 am

vanbry wrote:How 'bout checking where the clip is set for the needle on the throttle slide. Move the clip higher(making the needle set lower) to richen up the mix a bit.

Is this correct? I thought that lowering the clip to raise the needle would make it richer. The needle is tapered going into the nozzle so it seems like raising it would allow more fuel in. I have been known to be wrong on frequent occasions though.

keithw

kaaos82 · Post by **kaaos82** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 12:13 pm

where is the throttle clip located, on the carb?

Sorry guys im a noobie, all helps is appreciated so i dont kill my scoot