Exhaust manifold nuts rusted to *.

steffen707 · Post by **steffen707** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:39 am

Okay so I have a 87 spree, looks like the exhaust has NEVER been taken off. I have to take it off to replace rear shoes.

Are there studs that thread into the exhuast manifold and then nuts that thread onto these studs, OR, are the studs and nuts one unit, kinda like a bolt?

How many people have stripped or broken off these nuts?

they started to strip and so I pulled the whole motor and trans off of the scooter to get better access. I'm thinking i'm gunna have to cuz the nuts off and then easy out, or drill out and re-tap the exhaust port.

Any ideas?

steffen707 · Post by **steffen707** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:53 am

I tried pb blasting it and using a vise grip. no luck, guess i'll try heating it up good with a torch.

mousewheels · Post by **mousewheels** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 2:17 am

The exhaust is mounted by studs, threaded on both sides. Nuts on the flange secure the exhaust to the cyl.

I have been there with terribly rusted fasteners.

You can break them off, saw them off, or if patient might unstick them. I can tell from your posts, you can handle any of the outcomes. The attached pic is encouragement if you want to get the parts unstuck. The nuts eventually yielded to the oxy/acetylene torch, but it took many heat/cool cycles with PB Blaster in between. BTW I don't think PB Blaster is magic, it's just what I use. Those nuts were so rusty, the proper socket spun on them. And see how those studs rusted to pointy little stubs? There's normally spare threads above the nuts, that's all rusted away on these.

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steffen707 · Post by **steffen707** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:45 am

mousewheels wrote:The exhaust is mounted by studs, threaded on both sides. Nuts on the flange secure the exhaust to the cyl.

I have been there with terribly rusted fasteners.

You can break them off, saw them off, or if patient might unstick them. I can tell from your posts, you can handle any of the outcomes. The attached pic is encouragement if you want to get the parts unstuck. The nuts eventually yielded to the oxy/acetylene torch, but it took many heat/cool cycles with PB Blaster in between. BTW I don't think PB Blaster is magic, it's just what I use. Those nuts were so rusty, the proper socket spun on them. And see how those studs rusted to pointy little stubs? There's normally spare threads above the nuts, that's all rusted away on these.

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LMAO, yep that's what mine look like. What is the proper socket for those nuts anyways? I think pb blaster is the s***. Its gotten me outa many many jams. I'd rather try getting them out without having to re-drill and tap. Instead of re-tapping, can you just cut them off, drill em out, and put a bolt through one side and a nut on the other side?

By definition i don't think so, but can stainless steel rust? I'm totally gunna swap those fasteners on here and on my 01 elite, before that has a problem too.

keithw · Post by **keithw** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:51 am

I have replaced studs in other applications with stainless steel with very good results. The answer for those is heat, penetrating oil, and patience.

The magic juice I like is a home made mixture if half acetone and half ATF. Read about it in an off road magazine. In their testing is worked better than the commercial stuff. Best of all it's cheap.

keithw

steffen707 · Post by **steffen707** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 11:54 am

Is acetone the same as fingernail polish remover? Anywhere to buy that cheaply?

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 11:59 am

jonsteffen wrote:Is acetone the same as fingernail polish remover? Anywhere to buy that cheaply?

Im pretty sure any store that sells paint related stuff sells it by the quart/gallon.

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:20 pm

Greetings:

You can buy a gallon of acetone for about ten bucks anywhere paint is sold. Do not drink or inhale concentrated vapors. It could make your brainnnnnnnnnnnnn a little soffffffffffffffffft.

Don't waste your time with Miracle Nutzoff products, commercial or home-made. Penetrating lubricants can't invade spaces fused by rust.

Plan A:

The proper tool to remove these is a 10mm six-sided DEEP socket. Hammer it onto the nut if you have a cheap one handy. Break out the torch and try heating the SOCKET first. With any luck the nut will expand away from the cooler stud inside. The threads will clean themselves up as the nut spins out.

If you've buggered things up beyond where this will work go to Plan B.

Plan B:
Step 1. Apply socket specified above, or your Vise Grips if that's all that will hold.
Step 2. Make a heat shield for the stud/nut/tool so they all stay cooler than the cylinder port. You can use wet rags, clay, even ice cubes if you can get them applied around the stud somehow.
Step 3. Heat the area around the exhaust port, keeping heat away from the stud/tool as much as possible. Hit the stud with the ice again once the cylinder is hot. With any luck the threaded hole in the cylinder will expand away from the cooler stud and she'll spin right out. If not, see Step 4.
Step 4: If you can start a "step" in the stud material using a pointed steel punch or narrow chisel. You tap-tap-tap the chisel into the stud radially at first until it pushes a notch into the softer steel stud. Continue to tap-tap-tap- and slowly begin moving the handle of the punch or chisel so that it begins to push the outer rim of the stud in a counter-clockwise direction. Don't go too fast or you'll peel off your "step" and have to begin again. Once you're at 45 degrees from radial, stop and give the area around the threaded stud hole another kiss with the torch. Keep tap-tap-tapping until the stud starts to give a little, spin it off the rest of the way with trusty Vise-Grips. This has worked for me many times. If not, see Plan C.

Plan C: Drill and screw extractors. Find a Left-handed drill at your local Very Large Tool Store. They're usually located in the Bad Part of Town. Often the heat generated by drilling combined with the Lefty torque the drill applies as it cuts will spin the stud out without even using the screw extractor.

I wish you luck.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:31 pm

I have also heard of people using HOT water to loosen rusted on bolts/nuts.

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:40 pm

Greetings:

Lots more Plans and Steps here:

http://www.dansmc.com/stripbolt.htm

steffen707 · Post by **steffen707** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:47 pm

And do I need a porta torch or can I get by with MAP gas?

THAT'S SUPPOSE TO BE A 10MM? Lol, 9mm was too big and I tried hammering on a 8mm which fit snugly, but I didn't apply heat and thusly f'ed up the nut. Vise grip is all I have left I think.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:53 pm

MAPP should work fine.

steffen707 · Post by **steffen707** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 1:20 pm

I always felt that MAP gas didn't get stuff hot enough. I've seen mechanics get stuff glowing red hot. MAP never has gotten it this hot.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 1:27 pm

Patience, I have melted steel with a propane torch before.

steffen707 · Post by **steffen707** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 2:36 pm

Kenny_McCormic wrote:Patience, I have melted steel with a propane torch before.

Alrighty, well ill go buy a new bottle of it cuz I'm out, and I'll try the heating stuff tonight. Maybe I won't have to tap this baby. :p

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Exhaust manifold nuts rusted to *.

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