Another Belt Install Question

[Accolay]

Yes...

I've the new belt here, and a new variator on the mochine, but I have no clearance to put the drive gear, bolt and washer back on.

Do I have the variator on the crankshaft all the way? How far does it go? I mean, it seems to be on all the way, after some taps with a rubber mallet, but I wonder if it can go on any farther.

Hints, clues or lines to drop, I'll take what I can get.

Thanks in advance.

[akskoot]

A simple suggestion, but make sure when you slide the vari on the crankshaft that you keep the ramp guide squeezed against the vari. That way a roller doesn't get sideways. What vari and model are you running?

[Accolay]

This is a '87 SE50P. It's a Keli Variator from Daywot, and an OEM belt from Sochiro. I assume it's the original ramp plate that came with the machine, but who knows? When I took it out, the small bolts on the back weren't there and it was missing one of the plastic slide pieces. And O-ring. The original ramp plate was a PITA to get off. I had to use a puller. I expected it to be hard to put back on, but jeez...

Hopefully none of the roller weights went sideways because of the taps from the rubber mallet. However, I think it shall require more beating! (softly)

[akskoot]

"missing one of the plastic slice pieces" is the first order of business. Get all three. There could be some binding if you don't have all the three to help it slide along. Second, general consensus is ditch the 3 bolts, the grease cover, and the o-ring. Clean all grease and run them dry. It's Ok, later models did this. I can't imagine a puller being necessary for the vari, as it should slide off easily. That's about the extent of my knowledge...

[evilone]

All the trans parts (variator, ramp plate, clutch/pulleys) should all slide on and off easily. Somethings not right, no beating hard or soft should be necessary.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Is it possible that running without the ramp plate guides caused the plate to tilt, bending the center hole into a bit of an oval? That might explain why it's so hard to get on/off. All of mine have required no force whatsoever to remove and install. I would replace it on the basis of your info to date, and make sure to have all three guides before you run.

[novs86]

Yes...

I've the new belt here, and a new variator on the mochine, but I have no clearance to put the drive gear, bolt and washer back on.

Do I have the variator on the crankshaft all the way? How far does it go? I mean, it seems to be on all the way, after some taps with a rubber mallet, but I wonder if it can go on any farther.

Hints, clues or lines to drop, I'll take what I can get.

Thanks in advance.

Grab the belt and squeeze it close to the clutch. (The new belt is thicker than the old one which is why you are having a issue where you weren't before. To prove my point try the old belt with the new variator and you will see what I mean.)It will press the torque spring slightly and the belt will go lower on the clutch and allow you to get the nut on variator.

[Accolay]

I did order the missing plastic slide piece, the three bolts and the o-ring, but it seems I wont need it with this new variator, since I will run it greaseless.

... general consensus is ditch the 3 bolts ...

Why?

I thought it was funny that it wouldn't slide easy. I saw a Youtube video, and the thing came off like butter on a...well, something hot

[808BMW]

Try lightly sanding the crank, nothing too hard, just remove any surface rust/gunk. Install weights into variator, slide ramp in (with all 3 guides), no need for the backing plate. Put the drive boss in the front side (sitting in the variator, it should bottom out against the ramp and stick halfway out of the variator).
Hold the variator + ramp together tightly, and it should slide all the way on. You should have at least half the splines on the crank showing out of the drive boss. It may differ on motor/boss combos but those splines are what the drive face sits on, so it should be obvious if it will work or not.

If you needed a puller to take the ramp off, and it was already missing the backing plate, it sounds like someone else has been there previously. I have a stock ramp plate (supposedly) that won't fit onto my crank (way too tight). Maybe yours got switched around with something like that, and the PO just forced it on.

[eclypse]

I also had a heck of a time getting my ramp plate off my variator from my original 88 Honda elite LX. It seems that the plastic coating from the roller weights melted off and sealed the ramp plate to the variator. Took a bit but i got it off. All 3 ramp plate guides were trashed as well.

I had to order new rollers and guides.. Spent alot of time cleaning out the inside of the variator.

I wish i would of taken pictures of it.. but i had no idea at the time as it was my first time messing with the variator. Was restoring the scooter after being in parts sitting in my parents garage for 20 years. hehe

All good now!

[Accolay]

I found the problem with the ramp plate install. There were a couple of nubs of metal on the inside of the hole that goes on the crank shaft. Quick work with a round file. Slides right on.

Now, here is the question: How far gone is this, if at all? It looks to me like the metal splines that the drive gear is supposed to go on are rounded off, but I dunno:


This is how much I have after I put the variator back on:


Is this the way it's supposed to be?

[eclypse]

Nope, looks like its a goner sorry to tell you. I dont think its fixable.

You may have a * of a winter project ahead of you with taking the motor apart and pulling the crankshaft off and replacing the left side of the crankshaft or buying a whole new crankshaft. Prob alot cheaper to just buy a used motor but thats up to you.

[novs86]

Im afraid the fat lady has sung !

[Lunytune]

Perfect time for a stroker kit, but doubt they make one for this engine.

[eclypse]

Which engine we talking about?