Another Belt Install Question

[Clivester]

Sorry to see that.

He's got an SE50P so maybe time for a Dio swap.

If you need to keep using the scoot for a while it may be possible to machine a little off the boss - just enough that the drive face can meet the splines - then use a thinner belt. You would have to make sure the belt wouldn't ride all the way off the top of the pulley at full RPMs. Acceleration would suffer, but at least you would be riding.

Any opinions as to how well that would work? Seems like the engine is pretty much toast anyhow.

[Lunytune]

Which engine we talking about?

This is a '87 SE50P. It's a Keli Variator from Daywot, and an OEM belt from Sochiro.(softly)

[Accolay]

Well, *.

[Accolay]

You may have a * of a winter project ahead of you

How hard is it really? I mean, no offense at all by this, but taking it apart and getting it back together can't be that bad is it? I live in the land of ice and snow, it couldn't possibly take 4 months, right? There's only one piston...

...but I suppose, once I get it apart, I'd have to do some upgrades, find suitable parts...spend the money...

Looks like it's back to the motorcycle for me.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

For this season, you may be able to get by with red LocTite on the outer pulley.

See if you can score a crank on eBay. '85-'93 will work. Head, base and crankcase gaskets too. $50-$75 if you decide to add fresh bearings and seals.

The job is infinitely easier with Honda's crank installer tool, in the service manual. My dealer lent me theirs overnight for the price of cheap pizza one lunch hour. It's not a tool in great demand.

Even as slow as I am, this isn't a 4-month job. I had mine done in an evening. Great satisfaction comes from having touched every single part of an engine build, even if this is no CBX.

[Accolay]

Honda's crank installer tool

...tell me of this tool...
I found them on cmsnl.com

Is this what the manual refers to as the "assembly collar" http://www.cmsnl.com/products/collarcrank_07965gm00100/
and "assembly bolt" http://www.cmsnl.com/products/crank-sha ... 65gm00300/?

1. Where else can I find these or can I make my own? Anyone else have a source in the US? The two of them for around 80Ôé¼ seems a little steep, even though I'm a toolwhore.

2. Also, are the case puller at 492Ôé¼ and thread protector at 31Ôé¼ available commercially? I am unfamiliar with any of these engine building bits. That's way too much $.

[eclypse]

If it makes you feel any better i just opened up the crank cover to change the variator again and noticed that my brand new crankshaft is already worn to its max. The splines are almost gone! The face drive can just barely hold the last bit of splin. I'm sure its a goner.

I would love to know why this brand new crackshaft needs to be replaced already?? What would grind away the splin that fast? I maybe of put 20 miles if that on it.

Holding in the starter for a while to try to get it to start?? Or using a impact wrench to get the nut off the face drive (Which i dont do anymore). I think i've used the impact wrench maybe 3 times to get it off.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

It's easy to crush the splines during assembly. The drive face, inhibited by the belt from engaging its splines with those on the crank, can be misaligned. When the nut is torqued down, the splines crush down before they can engage. I squeeze the driven pulleys apart, then jam a handy stick to hold them there. This slackens the belt so it can stay away from center on the drive side. Now you can fully engage the outer pulley by wiggling it on, install the nut finger-tight before applying torque.

[eclypse]

Yeah i believe that could be were i tore them up as i was installing the belt wrong the first few times with the belt on the boss leaving no room for the drive face. Figured when i get the nut on finger tight that it must be on the splines right.

Lessen learned the hard way. This winter i guess i get to take the motor all apart once again and replace the whole cranksaft if i cant get that shaft puller. Prob wait to examin the head and piston rings then since i'll have to remove them then anyways.

heh.. i'll be leaving that variator alone for the time being since theres just enough splines to hold that drive face atm.

I'd slap a dio in the 88 but this elite is special since its my original i had as a kid. All my friends trashed the crap out of it for me and i'm on a mission to fix it up the way it should be looking today and thats without a scratch and runing perfect.

[Kenny_McCormic]

I know on sprees if you put it together wrong it will eat the crank up. Don't remember how/why.

[Clivester]

I know on sprees if you put it together wrong it will eat the crank up. Don't remember how/why.

I think there's a bit more space to play with on pulleys with the variator. Since the pulley distance is set on the Spree and SB50's there's less "wiggle-room" for the belt and its more likely to get trapped.