Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Trafficjamz wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:I am not now nor have I ever been a fan of using a hammer of any kind on a pressed together crank shaft.

I agree that using a hammer to pound across a pressed crank is a bad idea.

But pounding out a crank that is stuck in the case does not put stress on any of the pressed fittings in the crank.




Does this make sense?

It flies in the face of physics.

Bear45-70 wrote:
It flies in the face of physics.

I don't know what this means

Trafficjamz wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:
It flies in the face of physics.

I don't know what this means

"Objects at rest tend to remain at rest."

It means that the bearing may be the primary sourcse of resistance but the crank assemby has inertia as does any mass. The pressure waves from the hammer will reverberate through the crant assmbly. When the bearing lets go,the half shaft will have to fight the inertia of the rest of the crank via the pressed fitting.

At least, that is what I take it to mean.

I am a fan off constant pressure rather than impact if you want to reuse the crank but I am not saying a hammer is wrong. Hammers are just not my preference.

eliteguy50 wrote:I am a fan off constant pressure rather than impact if you want to reuse the crank but I am not saying a hammer is wrong. Hammers are just not my preference.

+1

So what tool is used to press out the crank? The steering wheel puller will certainly not work sine it can't reach any threads on the variator side.

EDIT: looking over the link on the previous page I think I could make a wood plate to bolt onto the case and use with my puller. That should work to press the crank out. No hammers and no pulling.

devenex wrote:So what tool is used to press out the crank? The steering wheel puller will certainly not work sine it can't reach any threads on the variator side.

EDIT: looking over the link on the previous page I think I could make a wood plate to bolt onto the case and use with my puller. That should work to press the crank out. No hammers and no pulling.

I have a very large puller that would work with longer bolts. The board system will work.

Greetings:

I agree with Taz - see his crafty diagrams.
You can tap the crank out of its bearings, but installing it results in the kind of stress across the flywheels that can put it out of true. The Tusk Tool is an affordable and safe way to install the crank back into the cases.

Your right TFAG i have not eva removed a crank befor with a mallet cause i have the correct tools to do the job rednecks use a mallot

Greetings:

Sorry to announce that Niftyman will be taking a 3-day rest.

I am a redneck too then * I used to pieces of wooden board and a rubber mallet to put my cases back together

Mystic wrote:I am a redneck too then * I used to pieces of wooden board and a rubber mallet to put my cases back together

I have never installed crank with a mallet.



This looks like a steering wheel puller and a piece of plywood. I would like to see how the tusk tool is used to remove a crank.

Or better yet, some one show me the proper tool for removing the crank.

I am sure few people approach engine work as I do. I just cant see paying 100 bucks for a tool I may only use twice especially without a steady paycheck. With the extra money and continuous use of said PrOpEr tools then yea no doubt but in a pinch you do the best you can with what you have on hand that may cause the least amount of damage if a mistake is made. I dont recommend anyone repeat my behaviors but I try to be accurate in my methods I have one of those tusk crank tools and a bearing puller on my wish list if anyone wants to make a contribution As the old saying goes there is more than one way to skin a cat...though I have never seen a cat skinned I am sure I can manage I am sure there are plenty of other people that arent going to go out and buy those expensive tools