Restoring a 1988 Spree

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 5:41 am

Whats a GPS- go pretty slow?

EDIT- just realised you used mph not kmh.
I'll go and sit my red face in the corner then

Bear45-70 · Post by **Bear45-70** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 1:31 pm

GPS = Global Positioning System It uses satellites to tell you where you are, what direction you are going and how fast you are doing it. It's what the military uses to put missiles thru window of buildings. It is very accurate. Whereas speedos care iffy at best.

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 4:17 pm

I know- I was trying to be cheeky about your speed and then realised the units ie mph were not what I thought they were.

I'll just stick to the scooter fixing in future and leave the funnies to the comedians.

PS It is cool watching missile cam when they park one through a window only slightly bigger than the missile fins isnt it?

Bear45-70 · Post by **Bear45-70** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 6:08 pm

Storm wrote:I know- I was trying to be cheeky about your speed and then realised the units ie mph were not what I thought they were.

I'll just stick to the scooter fixing in future and leave the funnies to the comedians.

PS It is cool watching missile cam when they park one through a window only slightly bigger than the missile fins isnt it?

Use this to indicate a funny next time.

or this

CaptDan · Post by **CaptDan** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 12:32 pm

Bear45-70 wrote:GPS = Global Positioning System It uses satellites It is very accurate. Whereas speedos care iffy at best.

I agree, though some in the maritime world don't. They - being of old sckrewel - believe an instrument connected to a mechanical wheel via a twirly wire in a piece of spaghetti yields better results.

In some ways, they might be right. For one thing, GPS uses timing signals which are interpolated by a computer which, in turn, spits out a digital reading. Speed of a vessel is relative to the the satellites' 'viewpoint,' not that of the floor of the ocean. Hence - 'speed over ground.'

Second, currents don't always bear against a vessel in exact angular planes; errors in interpolation can occur because of them.

But finally - and most importantly - I've used both. In every case, every instance, and in virtually ALL applications, me olde GPS units concur, agree with, and reflect the same durn data the dial with the twirly wheel do.

Thanks for letting me waste a few moments of your time.

CaptDan

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:07 pm

I shall consider myself enlightened then.

vinnie · Post by **vinnie** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 1:31 am

Hey Storm,

I'm a kiwi doing up a Nifty 50 as well (I'm pretty sure we've already talked on kiwibiker

)

You probably already know, but there are a million Nifty 50 parts available on trademe, just make sure you search for "nifty fifty" as well as "nifty 50". Econohonda and scootling.co.nz does new parts as well.

Also, don't know where you live but there's a complete nifty 50 sitting at $55 on trademe at the moment (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 319013.htm)

I'd be really interested in seeing your scooter when it's completely restored so make sure you post pics when you're done

You're d*** lucky to get a Nifty 50 with such good condition plastics! Is that the one that you inherited?

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 4:36 am

d***, I could have got a running one for $20 bucks less

DOH!!!!
Yeah, the red one is what I inherited. Guess the wife wont let me buy another one "just for parts"

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 4:05 am

Will be left alone with the garage this weekend so hoping to make a decent attempt at acheiving ignition.
Will be posting pics once all is back together , after all, thats why I started the thread as a "see what I did and nick the ideas and hints" guide for other restorer types out there.
Bike is currently sans plastic as I removed them all for cleaning/repairs.
I'm hanging out for the day I can take complete running and shiny pictures.
Then it'll be thread # 2- how can I make it "go fast and handle good"

:D

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 5:10 am

Just been out to the shed and have established that I have compression.
I have also adjusted the air fuel screw to the recommended level ( 1 7/8 turns out from full in), loosened off the idle fully, and yet I am still flooding rhe chamber each time. Even with one press of the button, the plug is immediatly sopping wet.
How can I fix this/ what is the problem?
Carb?
Bystarter?
Something else?

Clivester · Post by **Clivester** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:53 am

Have you checked that you get a nice blue spark with the spark plug out of the engine and grounded to the frame?

If you have a spark maybe its time to pull out the reeds and make sure they look OK.

After that, I'd be inclined to think the carb is delivering way too much gas due to perhaps (take your choice)
* damaged pilot jet
* worn main jet or needle
* wrong float height

Clive.

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:26 pm

Yep, I've got a nice blue spark. Will whip the reeds out this weekend.
How should I go about the adjusting of the float level?

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:10 pm

Pulled the carby apart again to check the float, all was well and in good condition. I also looked through the owner manual and checked the bystarter which was within tolerance(eg 5 ohms out of a maximum allowale value of 10 ohms) the reeds are in good nick with no ragged edges and they move freely.

I'm starting to run out of ideas here-no matter how lean I try to run the carb, the plug still comes out wet after 1 crank of the starter.

Is there a possibilty of too much oil being drawn in after the carb?if so, how do I check for it and adjust the flow level?

Any help gratefully recieved

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:30 pm

Storm wrote:Pulled the carby apart again to check the float, all was well and in good condition. I also looked through the owner manual and checked the bystarter which was within tolerance(eg 5 ohms out of a maximum allowale value of 10 ohms) the reeds are in good nick with no ragged edges and they move freely.

I'm starting to run out of ideas here-no matter how lean I try to run the carb, the plug still comes out wet after 1 crank of the starter.

Is there a possibilty of too much oil being drawn in after the carb?if so, how do I check for it and adjust the flow level?

Any help gratefully recieved

The carb doesn't draw oil its injected right beofre the reeds. Most of the pumps leak a little in the crank and cause smokey startups. you just need to get it going long enough to pull the crap though. holding it with pliers get the tip of the plug glowing red with a torch, quickly and carefully put it in and try starting. Have you tried a new plug? Sometimes they look and function fine outside but under compression is a different story.

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:43 pm

I realise the oil is drawn after the carb-my bad for not making it clearer. I was just wondering if there is a way to set the oil flow.

Unfortunatly I have no access to a torch,and the new spark plug I bought has a bigger tip than the plug cap will accept!