Please Help

[runningbear]

I got an 87 elite 50 given to me... the person that had it before me really destroied it.. But I got it to start, it ran for about 30-45 seconds... I could slowly give some throttle, and eventually it went poof and died... I pulled the carb to clean, when I took carb off, a small piece of the hard gasket broke off.. Now, I get nothing, I have great fire, good compression, getting plenty of fuel.. Could the hard gasket that broke be the problem? Getting too much air? I notice that when I try to kick it, you can hear air... Any and all help is appreciated...

Thanks

Runningbear

[martynkim]

Yup, need to fix that carb.

[toboggan]

was it a brown plastic piece with an o-ring?

[fastplastic]

need new gasket hands down any air leak is a BAD air leak replace asap sounds like you have another one as well more then likely your air box but first thing is get a new reed cage gasket

[Bear45-70]

When you reinstalled the carb did you get the brown carb spacer with "O" ring in with the right side to the manifold and right side up or you will sure have an air leak that will prevent starting.

[runningbear]

yes when I reinstalled the carb I got the brown gasket in right, but the hard plastic one is the one that a piece broke off of... not a big piece but big enough that you can see the rubber o-ring... I was thinking that was the problem, but wanted another opinion first..

[Bear45-70]

yes when I reinstalled the carb I got the brown gasket in right, but the hard plastic one is the one that a piece broke off of... not a big piece but big enough that you can see the rubber o-ring... I was thinking that was the problem, but wanted another opinion first..

If it is broke enough to see the O-ring then it most likely is not sealing. With shorter scews and can run without one until you can get another. It's a heat barrier only, to keep heat away from the carb

[86spreezy]

The problem is that u broke something n now the solution is to get a that broken peice replaced

[runningbear]

yeah the problem is that the thing is broken... the people who had this did alot of strange things... I need alot of help... ordered a gasket for the manifold/carb connection... one bolt from manifold to carb is stripped... they really did a number on this bike... I need a pic showing where all carb lines go... they have the oil line removed from carb and plugged up... mixed gas and oil together.. so I emptied tank, replaced with fresh gas.. but 1st things 1st... until the gasket comes in there is really nothing to try... I did take a piece of rubber radiator hose, and cut a gasket out of it for a temp thing... hooked the carb back up and got a pop the first kick.. no more poofing of air coming from mani/carb...

battery is dead, going to put on charge for a while, the time I did get it to fire up before cleaning the carb, only thing on dash that worked was headlight, the brights indicator was on... nothing else on dash was working... fuse???

also, the rear brake cable.. you can squeeze it and its on the grip... how can I tighten it to work so I know that I am getting it to allow for it to start...

Also are there any downloads I can do that show step by step where all wires run, like a diagram, any pics of the carbs... any hints to fine tuning it before running... could I have adjusted the carb so far off when I cleaned it, that would make it not start?


Going to post pics of this mountian I am trying to climb...

thanks to everyone for all of the help...

Runningbear

[runningbear]

this is what I have to work with...

[fastplastic]

wow... first um does ur oil pump work cause if they pre mix there are 3 reasons for that, big bore probley not, bad/no oil pump or they are f**king stupid. check this first or it could be bad....

[fastplastic]

o your stripped out carb is simple fix and very common problem, get a 6-1.0x30 to 45mm bolt (i cant remember what the lengh is sorry) and a nut to match problem solved

[fastplastic]

also, the rear brake cable.. you can squeeze it and its on the grip... how can I tighten it to work so I know that I am getting it to allow for it to start...


adjust the rear brake cable nut found by the back tire and u could just kick it and worry about that another time, but all that should do is cut the starter out if its not held, i dont think you need to worry as long as ele. start rolls it over then it will allow it to run if the conditions are right. not sure if that is clear but if your electric start rolls the motor over then thats all u need

[Trafficjamz]

From your pics, it looks like you have a 94-01 elite s
Take a pic of your whole scooter and a pic of the transmission cover

Does is read AF16E or AF05E?

It does not look like you have an '87 elite 50.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I can't see the belt cover in the pic well enough, but it appears not to be a 2-piece cover. The frame is tubular. That makes it an '88-93 Elite.

The model code should be under the saddle somewhere. I'm guessing SA50 or SA50P. The VIN sticker should have a model year to verify.

One thing not mentioned is that your pic doesn't show an airbox. If it was run without one, that's a bigger deal than you might think, particularly if it's a P model with its #68 jet. The "P" airbox inlet is pretty small, and that helps the small Main jet deliver sufficient fuel. Without it, the bike's probably running dangerously lean. You really should check the number on that main jet and get some sort of filter on that carb. A pod filter on those years might need as big as a 91 to stay cool.

If the brakes are worn all the way, you may be past the point where it can be adjusted. Pull the wheel and see that you have at least 1.5mm of lining thickness remaining, otherwise it's under $15 for shoes.