1. I need to fill in a large hole in my spree plastic, about 8" inch diameter. I don't have the chunk of plastic from that hole to patch back in. How would you patch a large hole like this? I know you need the fiberglass cloth and abs glue but how would you keep the contour of the plastic over that span?
2. Is there a way to make a small mold to make abs panels? Not whole spree panels but I would like to add a "bulge" to my side panels and I don't want to try the heat gun method. I want to make the "bulge" off the bike then patch it in, then cutout the plastic behind it.
Abs bodywork
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Re: Abs bodywork
I have had this happen a few times. You have a few routes you can take. You can use foil HVAC tape for duct work and build it up on the front in a few layers it will keep its shape to a certain degree. Then you sculpt it to the general shape you need then use your polyester matting on the back filling in the whole. Probably the least amount of work with a decent result. The more layers of the foil tape you use the better as that will make it stiffer and you won't loose the shape you have sculpted. Then you sand by hand the outside of the plastic to get your final shape. Another variation on that would be to use the foil with a MEK putty.
Now ABS cement you buy at the hardware store does have MEK in it but you dont get that much. MEK is Methyl Ethyl Ketone. What I suggest is go to Home Depot and buy a big can for $10 and get a large jar. Now find yourself a supply of ABS plastic, I usually just got to the local plastic dealer and they give me scraps. Take your abs scraps and get them to the smallest size you can ( smaller equals less time in the solution) add them to a glass jar with MEK. Please do this part in a well ventilated area and please wear a respirator this stuff is not very friendly. The more MEK to plastic the soupier your end solution so you may need to play with your recipe a bit. Depending on how small your ABS was it may need to sit for a day or two. Eventually you will end up with a much better version of ABS cement and lots more of it. If you use more MEK to make a thinner mixture you can literally pour it into your area you taped and cast a new section that will chemically bond to your old plastics and be just as strong as the surrounding ABS. You should leave it sit for at least a few days to fully cure and make sure all the MEK has evaporated. I would leave it outside somewhere. The MEK casting is what I find to be the best solution.
There is another easier but not as strong option with Peramtex Plastic Weld. It uses two ingredients in the Methyl family to melt the existing plastic to give a mechanical and chemical weld. It is a two part usually found in the expoxy section of your harware store. It is a two part you have to mix and then spread into the void like you were using bondo. Works good for cracks and small holes never tried anything over a square inch though. It is cheap and easy to use but I would still use the foil tape mold idea. The are other ways to do it, but they require a bit more work and investment. Or they require you to have access to other spree plastics to make a mold from. If you have any questions feel free to ask I have been into plastic fabrication for along time which was a great skill to have when buying cheap scooters off cragislist. LOL the plastics are always in the weeds. Have a great day!
Now ABS cement you buy at the hardware store does have MEK in it but you dont get that much. MEK is Methyl Ethyl Ketone. What I suggest is go to Home Depot and buy a big can for $10 and get a large jar. Now find yourself a supply of ABS plastic, I usually just got to the local plastic dealer and they give me scraps. Take your abs scraps and get them to the smallest size you can ( smaller equals less time in the solution) add them to a glass jar with MEK. Please do this part in a well ventilated area and please wear a respirator this stuff is not very friendly. The more MEK to plastic the soupier your end solution so you may need to play with your recipe a bit. Depending on how small your ABS was it may need to sit for a day or two. Eventually you will end up with a much better version of ABS cement and lots more of it. If you use more MEK to make a thinner mixture you can literally pour it into your area you taped and cast a new section that will chemically bond to your old plastics and be just as strong as the surrounding ABS. You should leave it sit for at least a few days to fully cure and make sure all the MEK has evaporated. I would leave it outside somewhere. The MEK casting is what I find to be the best solution.
There is another easier but not as strong option with Peramtex Plastic Weld. It uses two ingredients in the Methyl family to melt the existing plastic to give a mechanical and chemical weld. It is a two part usually found in the expoxy section of your harware store. It is a two part you have to mix and then spread into the void like you were using bondo. Works good for cracks and small holes never tried anything over a square inch though. It is cheap and easy to use but I would still use the foil tape mold idea. The are other ways to do it, but they require a bit more work and investment. Or they require you to have access to other spree plastics to make a mold from. If you have any questions feel free to ask I have been into plastic fabrication for along time which was a great skill to have when buying cheap scooters off cragislist. LOL the plastics are always in the weeds. Have a great day!
Re: Abs bodywork
Thanks for the ideas, I work for a plastic injection molding company so abs shouldn't be a problem.
If I use the foil as a mold, can I mold onto the sticky side of the foil?
If I use the foil as a mold, can I mold onto the sticky side of the foil?
Re: Abs bodywork
im pretty sure you could... but it could make it much harder to take off, i would try to put the smooth side in just to make things easier.
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'62 125cc Honda cub
'78 50 special Vespa Small frame
Re: Abs bodywork
The plastic was broke on my scoot right beside the left turn signal (seems super common). I used a cut up plastic bottle (600ml) and two paperclips to hold the peice in place then fiberglassed over this shape. The plastic bottle had a perfect curve at the top that worked great. More sturdy than duct tape when you go to glass over it. Use spot putty to get rid of any surface roughness caused by the fiberglass. Another idea for you
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2000 Honda dio AF18E keli variator 9g rollers
9.8:1 gearing uni filter #95 jet R1 YMS pipe
Re: Abs bodywork
parkhar wrote:The plastic was broke on my scoot right beside the left turn signal (seems super common). I used a cut up plastic bottle (600ml) and two paperclips to hold the peice in place then fiberglassed over this shape. The plastic bottle had a perfect curve at the top that worked great. More sturdy than duct tape when you go to glass over it. Use spot putty to get rid of any surface roughness caused by the fiberglass. Another idea for you
Re: Abs bodywork
You can peel most of the foil tape right off when done. If not a razor will lift the rest.