87 spree electric help

[Rowbear]

battery is charged, headlight isn't working but the tail-light, brake light and signals work. When I push start there is a small click coming from that little square, rubber covered plug with 4 slots that is located next to the fuse for turn signals and lights.

Spree has been running fine, my wife drove it to work the other day and then couldn't get it started to drive it back home. We brought it home, I trickled charged the battery to make sure that wasn't the issue. It wasn't. I suspect starter or ignition but am curious about the fact that the clicking noise is coming from the piece I mentioned above. It has a little rubber retainer that holds it in place just under the seat on the right side of the spree. After trying to start it quite a few times the wires leading to the harness that plugs into this piece were hot. I disconnected it and tried to start it, no click and no start. Any suggestions? What is this piece and will the manual tell me how to check it with a voltage meter?

[Rowbear]

it's hard to tell from my version of the manual but I may be talking about the starter relay

[Trafficjamz]

Yes that clicky rubber box thing-a-ma-bob is your starter relay.

A relay is just a voltage controlled switch. Since you can hear it click, it most likely works.

There are two large wires and two smaller wires on it. When the relay clicks, check for continuity between the large wires. Set your multimeter to ohms. It should read zero (or very close to it).

Loose or corroded wires are common problems with starter circuits.

[CharlotteSpreeRider]

These starter relays can be easily destroyed by jumping from a car battery. They overheat easily and the plastic body melts, causing the metal connectors to become misaligned, which can cause the thing to click but not send current to the starter motor. It's basically an electromagnet switch, which connects the battery to the starter motor. The low current from the starter button activates the electromagnet, which moves a switch, completing the circuit. I've seen them very badly rusted too.

[Bear45-70]

These starter relays can be easily destroyed by jumping from a car battery. They overheat easily and the plastic body melts, causing the metal connectors to become misaligned, which can cause the thing to click but not send current to the starter motor. It's basically an electromagnet switch, which connects the battery to the starter motor. The low current from the starter button activates the electromagnet, which moves a switch, completing the circuit. I've seen them very badly rusted too.

Not true, Honda in the manual warns against extented cranking even with the on board battery. In the owner's amnual it says;



To check the starter solenoid (relay) with everything hooked up, use a test light or voltmeter, not and ohmmeter. You will blow the ohmmeter with the 12 volts on the relay.With the start switch depressed there should be 12 volts on both big wires. If here is, the first thing I would check is the big ground wire to the starter frame. It's green and if it is off or broken, the starter will either run slow or not at all.

[Trafficjamz]

To check the starter solenoid (relay) with everything hooked up, use a test light or voltmeter, not and ohmmeter. You will blow the ohmmeter with the 12 volts on the relay.With the start switch depressed there should be 12 volts on both big wires.

How will hooking a ohmmeter across a relay blow it ?

[Bear45-70]

To check the starter solenoid (relay) with everything hooked up, use a test light or voltmeter, not and ohmmeter. You will blow the ohmmeter with the 12 volts on the relay.With the start switch depressed there should be 12 volts on both big wires.

How will hooking a ohmmeter across a relay blow it ?

It will blow the ohmmeter. The meters use about 1 1/2 volts to test ohms with and if you hit it wiith 12 volts it will fry the circuit in the meter, unless it is fuse protected and then you blow the fuse in the meter, either way it is a very ineffective way to test a relay with power on it.

[Rowbear]

I tried a new starter relay, voltage rectifier, and the other black plastic thingie that's over by the battery. None of them fixed the problem. The other starter relay made a groaning type noise. I don't know what else to do then to try checking every wire, which I don't wanna do. Should I just try to install a kickstarter?

[Bear45-70]

Battery! A good battery will have 12.7 volts or so when fully charged. A 12 volt battery is all but dead at 12 volts. While trying to crank the start, battery voltage can not drop below 10.5 volts or you need more battery.

[Trafficjamz]

If the battery and starter relay are good then check the starter motor itself.

The voltage regulator and cdi box have nothing to do with the engine cranking.

[Rowbear]

if the lights are on, seem bright, and turn signals work, can I not assume the battery is charged enough to at least try to turn the engine over? After trying to trickle charge the battery it still acts the same way. What am I looking for if I check the starter?

[Bear45-70]

No, you can not assume the battery is charged. Either a volt meter or a load tester (a glorified voltmeter) are required. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 to 12.8 volts and when you are cranking the engine (starting) the voltage should never drop below 10.5 volts.

As to trickle charging, you need to trickle charge at least over night and then actually test the battery with a meter. A bad battery can be charged 3 days and still have a max voltage of only 12 volts, AKA all but dead.

Until you have a known good battery testing anything else is a waste of time. besides you need a good battery before you can test the starter.