Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I just bought a 1990 elite ch80 and as many users around the board proclaims that their stock elite 80 will go about 45 mph stock. Mines only top out 35mph. Any clues as why it wouldn't go any higher? So far on my list is to check the tire pressure to see if it's properly inflated. The scooter has only about 2800 miles on and the condition is good.

while you at it thing i would check setting on the carb. change the plug. just a couple thoughts

Could be the belt is shot. How many miles does it have on it?

Check the air filter, be sure the exhaust isn't clogged, make sure it's running with good gas, and check the compression.

Bear45-70 wrote:Could be the belt is shot. How many miles does it have on it?

the scooter has about a little over 2800 miles on it.

so far on my list is.

1. carb cleaner
2. tire pressure
3. check the belt
4. air filter
5. plugs
6. see if the brakes are rubbing
7. oil

and that's about it...

anyone got anything else to add?

also can i run this elite on 92 octane?

Regular gas is fine no need to spend extra. I would add changing the oil in the final drive, if it's low you'll kill the gears fast. I know that's how I got mine and I ended up replacing the gears and bearings. Synthetic 10-30W is the right stuff not gear oil.

Atis wrote:Regular gas is fine no need to spend extra. I would add changing the oil in the final drive, if it's low you'll kill the gears fast. I know that's how I got mine and I ended up replacing the gears and bearings. Synthetic 10-30W is the right stuff not gear oil.

i don't mind spending a little extra since it burns a lot more clean. I'm not quite getting you on "changing the oil in the final drive" do you mean just having an oil change with synthetic 10-30w overall?

Final drive oil is unrelated to the crank case oil. I called it the final drive manual calls it "Final Reduction" link to this page see section #9 http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewto ... =11&t=8555

kekkiumai wrote:

Atis wrote:Regular gas is fine no need to spend extra. I would add changing the oil in the final drive, if it's low you'll kill the gears fast. I know that's how I got mine and I ended up replacing the gears and bearings. Synthetic 10-30W is the right stuff not gear oil.

i don't mind spending a little extra since it burns a lot more clean. I'm not quite getting you on "changing the oil in the final drive" do you mean just having an oil change with synthetic 10-30w overall?

the higher octane doesnt make it burn cleaner.its more for engines that run a higher compression ratio.yours is very low from the factory so 87 is fine if not 89.check the roller weights and belt.2800 miles is a bit much. change the plug too and clean the airfilter.check the service manual for other service needs.

Premium fuel has no more energy per gallon the regular does. It is more detonation resistance only and if your compression is not high enough to need the extra octane (9.5 to 1 is considered requiring premium fuel and you are at less than 7.5 to 1), you are wasting your money with no performance increase what so ever. Oh and baka is right is does not burn clean at all.

the scooter is my only transportation right now. would it be bad to continue to keep riding it right now before checking all those? i don't have much time and i work and school.

Greetings:

Summarize and Prioritize - These things have been suggested. Yes you'll have to pull out some tools and get dirty...
I recommend the following order:

Tire pressure shouldn't take long to check and it is a critical safety issue. I check mine daily, if only by squeeze method.

The air filter should absolutely be checked and restored if necessary, another quick fix. I've had one that blew chunks of foam that jammed in the (2-stroke) reeds. They can also lodge in a carb, causing intake restrictions. If they get by the carb they can get through to the combustion chamber where they almost certainly won't be doing good things. Check that for sure.

If you're feeling a bit handy, it might be a good idea to remove the spark plug and do a compression test as your Service Manual prescribes. Then thread in a new plug. Depending on the engine access on that CH, it's a 20-minute job.

Somebody suggested making sure the brakes aren't adjusted so tight that they rub. A very good suggestion because in addition to limiting top speed, they'll overheat and fade and be AWOL if you do need to stop in a hurry.

Otherwise, the belt or something in the tranny - like the roller weights - is likely worn and limiting top speed. it is possible to cause damage if you flog it with wide-open throttle and the transmission fails to provide the designed-in "gearing" to support the power. If that's all it is and you exercise Throttle Restraint it should be OK to ride until you can source and replace the worn parts.

Did anyone mention compression and valve clearances?

If compression is low, could indicate a tight valve or worn rings... most likely the former, most likely the exhaust valve.

Tight valves lead to valve burning which is very bad (trashes engine). Check compression and check your valve clearances. Page 3-6 in the Elite 80 manual.

Clearance is small, gap of .002" minimum. Set them larger if you don't have a small enough feeler gauge; they are better off set with a large gap than small. I wouldn't set them any tighter than .005" if they are already open. Cycle shops sell these smaller gauges (.002"), whereas the larger ones (.005") are typically available at car shops.

Most motorcycles I buy have had running problems that get blamed on the carbs, when the trouble is actually a few tight valves. Makes a big difference in running and durability when they are set right.

On fuel: Not sure where 7.5:1 compression ratio comes from... Honda Manual states Elite 80 at 9.3:1 compression.

The fuel tank is small. Try a tank of each and see which you like best. I don't think that premium fuel is required for this bike or will make a noticable difference in operation.

wow guys thanks for all the tips! i find them really helpful. now if only i'm mechanic savvy and hopefully i don't mess anything up. if i just bring it into the shop how much would it cost to have all those tune up? on average per-say.

if its to check valve clearance ,it can get costly. just imagine the time it takes to get to the engine and get the parts off to get to the valves. they charge by the hour and its usually around $70 an hour,maybe higher.do the easy stuff first like the airfilter,check the plug, check if not change the belt and rollers.spin the rear wheel to see if its binding.