Clean Carb - spark available. No start

niftyfifty · Post by **niftyfifty** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:26 pm

i've brought some silicon sealer to try and seal that intake manifold and with a new paper gasket, next i'll use silicon on those rubber rings that seperate the carb and manifold (heat insulator). then your right i'll buy a new steel gasket for the head.
I really do think it is a vaccum leak, it just wont rev properly or even come close to starting while its cranking over.

JF · Post by JF » Sun Feb 26, 2006 1:36 pm

If you finish doing all of that to it and it still won't start, then you might want to check the resistance levels on the alternator and the ignition coil. You'll need to check the technical documents section on this site and click on the link to the 84'-87' Honda Spree service manual for specific resistance levels on the various electrical parts. You will also need to either borrow or buy a digital multi-meter for testing the resistance levels. The instructions in the service manual are a little vague on some of the details, so if you need some help on something let me know.

Good luck,
JF

MySpree · Post by **MySpree** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 1:50 pm

yea... i hate when that happens the manual dont havve what u need.... it bothersone

Post by **noiseguy** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:44 pm

I don't like to use that silicone on anything intake related (actually don't like to use it at all); I've pulled apart engine dead from ppl getting it into the bearings. Use a different, non-hardening type of sealer, like Hondabond, for that type of surface.

MySpree · Post by **MySpree** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 4:06 pm

the silicone i use for intakes is the non hardening stuff, but for other tings i use hardening stuff...

niftyfifty · Post by **niftyfifty** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 5:27 am

I brought gas resistant gasket maker to seal the new gasket for the manifold. i took it to a mechanic and he said it'll take him two weeks to look at it and he said by the sounds of it it will have a vacuum leak in the o ring of the o pump, so it will be losing compression through the oil pump.

he says this happens all the time to these.

Is this the case? does it sound like a valid option?

Post by **noiseguy** » Sun Mar 05, 2006 9:10 pm

Sounds like a nice idea. We've never seen that happen here though. Have you checked this yourself?

niftyfifty · Post by **niftyfifty** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:43 am

ok, back to square one, removed oil pump, o ring in it is fine, replaced and tighten.. same exact thing is occuring, not near starting... how do i fix this!!!!!

Post by **noiseguy** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 9:08 am

OK, here are the things to (re)check, in this order:

1) Compression: You had an air leak. You may have toasted the rings from running lean. Get a compression checker and check this (borrow or buy.)
2) Spark: Are you getting a blue spark, or a weak red one?
3) Air: Remove the exhaust and look into the tube. Still open? Is there an aircleaner installed?
4) Fuel: Check that all jets are open. Can you see pinhole light through the idle jet?

Usually this list starts with the carb, I reversed it b/c of the story (died while running, bunch of loose bolts found.)

Don't use silicone on anything! Just use new (or make new) gaskets and torque to spec.

I'd be hesitant to take it to a mechanic. I'd rather see you drag this to your school small-engine expert. You'll just spend more than it's worth at a shop. Otherwise keep coming back here, and we'll get you sorted.

Post your location, perhaps one of the other users can stop by.

niftyfifty · Post by **niftyfifty** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 3:12 am

i took the head off no scoring or anything in cylinder, im going to give up and take it to a mechanic, its just so frustrating that i spent all that time and money for it to crap out again and for me to give in.

I am in Palmerston North
New Zealand