Idling issues with a 88' Honda Elite E! Help ASAP!

[gookies]

I just purchased this scooter a few weeks ago and my problem is that while at a stoplight, my scooter sits fine at idle for a few seconds, then it just stops. The only way I know how to compensate for this is to keep revving it so it doesn't stop, but I know it should sit fine at idle without doing anything. I tried adjusting the idle screw on the carb, the tire wasn't moving, so it was the perfect setting and it sat at idle for a few minutes, but while driving it and stopping at lights, this doesn't happen for some reason. Also, when coming back from my friend's place tonight, I started my scooter to see how the idling speed was. This time, the wheel kept moving faster and faster! I don't know what's the cause of this at all. The spring is on the idle screw, so it shouldn't move while driving around. If anyone can help, please lend your advice.

[Bear45-70]

There are TWO idle adjustment screws, the mixture screw and the speed screw. Are you first adjusting the mixture screw for the highest RPM possible the adjusting the idle speed screw (AKA the slide or throttle stop screw) until the wheel is not turning. Because that is not what it sounds like you are doing.

Read the manual, it explains all this.

[gookies]

Yes, I adjusted the mixture screw, I already read the manual and it stated to turn it 1 3/4 for a SB50P, which is what I have. I then later adjusted the idle speed screw, I turned it all the way out (counter-clockwise), started the engine, it stalled out, then proceeded to turn it 1/4 right until it reached that point of where the tire stopped turning.

[Bear45-70]

Yes, I adjusted the mixture screw, I already read the manual and it stated to turn it 1 3/4 for a SB50P, which is what I have. I then later adjusted the idle speed screw, I turned it all the way out (counter-clockwise), started the engine, it stalled out, then proceeded to turn it 1/4 right until it reached that point of where the tire stopped turning.

That is NOT what it says. The 1 3/4 turns is a starting place where the motor should run, NOT a final setting. You adjust from there for the highest RPM possible. THEN you adjust the idle speed screw until the back wheel does not turn. BUT nowhere does it say that the 1 3/4 turns is the final setting. You have to adjust each motor because they are all different.

[eliteguy50]

Yes, I adjusted the mixture screw, I already read the manual and it stated to turn it 1 3/4 for a SB50P, which is what I have. I then later adjusted the idle speed screw, I turned it all the way out (counter-clockwise), started the engine, it stalled out, then proceeded to turn it 1/4 right until it reached that point of where the tire stopped turning.

You are doing this after the engine is up to temp, right?

[gookies]

Yes, but I guess I have to do what Bear stated. To get it to the highest RPM possible, do you have to buy a tachometer to measure that?

[Bear45-70]

Yes, but I guess I have to do what Bear stated. To get it to the highest RPM possible, do you have to buy a tachometer to measure that?

Just do it by ear will be close enough, but do the adjustment slowly to give the motor time to settle out.

[gookies]

Okay, thanks bear. I will try to do this tomorrow and hopefully have good results.

[Scooterspal]

My 1985 Spree will sometimes do just as you are describing and it is adjusted fine. A few things that can help with these finicky carbs...

Do a complete carb cleaning once a year preferably using an ultrasonic cleaner. At the very least, make sure the main jet is completely clear. I use an old projector lens to see down these tiny holes.

Keep your fuel tank well above the half way point at all times. Some gas senders get bent or stuck and will not indicate the correct amount of gas in your tank. The more gas present the more pressure down the gas line into the carburetor.

Warm up before you head off. On my Spree I know it's ready to roll when the engine idle slows way down from revving after the start up. That can take about 2 minutes from a cold start. The first few hundred yards it will feel * until the carb evens out and then it will ride smooth.

I find the air temp and humidity play a role with these carbs and I carry a screwdriver to tweak the idle screw (the one that raises the throttle tube) from time to time.

If running full out and you know there is a stop sign ahead ease off on the throttle instead of just slamming it closed at the last second. Doing the latter can flood the carb and cause the motor to stall. Let that excess gas burn off ahead of time and you should be fine.

Finally, add some Startron to your gas to keep it fresh especially if you fill up from a can at home like I do.

[Bear45-70]

My 1985 Spree will sometimes do just as you are describing and it is adjusted fine. A few things that can help with these finicky carbs...

Do a complete carb cleaning once a year preferably using an ultrasonic cleaner. At the very least, make sure the main jet is completely clear. I use an old projector lens to see down these tiny holes.

I haven't had my carb off my 1985 Spree in 10 years.

Keep your fuel tank well above the half way point at all times. Some gas senders get bent or stuck and will not indicate the correct amount of gas in your tank. The more gas present the more pressure down the gas line into the carburetor.

If it makes a difference you carb float and/or needle and seat has issues or you are using the wrong inline fuel filter.

Warm up before you head off. On my Spree I know it's ready to roll when the engine idle slows way down from revving after the start up. That can take about 2 minutes from a cold start. The first few hundred yards it will feel * until the carb evens out and then it will ride smooth.

Good idea, except if it is *, you didn't wait long enough.

I find the air temp and humidity play a role with these carbs and I carry a screwdriver to tweak the idle screw (the one that raises the throttle tube) from time to time.

This is true except if you have to do more than once change about every 3 months you either have real weather extremes or you are over adjusting the carb. The screw that adjust the slide is the IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT


If running full out and you know there is a stop sign ahead ease off on the throttle instead of just slamming it closed at the last second. Doing the latter can flood the carb and cause the motor to stall. Let that excess gas burn off ahead of time and you should be fine.

The part about leaning out is true. The part about flooding the carb is BS as if that happens you have a bad needle and seat and or a bad float.

Finally, add some Startron to your gas to keep it fresh especially if you fill up from a can at home like I do.

Using a fuel stabilizer is a good thing if the scooter or gas is gonna sit for more than a couple of weeks. For a normal fuel additive use Seafoam.

[gookies]

Okay, I'm back with news. I rode the scooter for 4-5 miles to warm the engine up and came back to readjust the carb. I had my mixture screw at the starting position stated in the manual, (1 3/4 for SB50P) and kept twisting it counter-clockwise 1/4 turn, taking a one minute break during each turn. I got to this point where it seems like the RPM is at max and my tire is rotating rapidly, it's like I'm giving it gas, but I'm not. Is this the point where my RPM is at its MAX? I assumed so, so I started adjusting the idle screw valve. I have it to the point where it moves really slowly, but I can't get it to the point where it just stops.

[richdavison34]

There are TWO idle adjustment screws, the mixture screw and the speed screw. Are you first adjusting the mixture screw for the highest RPM possible the adjusting the idle speed screw (AKA the slide or throttle stop screw) until the wheel is not turning. Because that is not what it sounds like you are doing.

Read the manual, it explains all this. 11 Bucks

Does this sound bystarter-ish to anyone else?

[Bear45-70]

Okay, I'm back with news. I rode the scooter for 4-5 miles to warm the engine up and came back to readjust the carb. I had my mixture screw at the starting position stated in the manual, (1 3/4 for SB50P) and kept twisting it counter-clockwise 1/4 turn, taking a one minute break during each turn. I got to this point where it seems like the RPM is at max and my tire is rotating rapidly, it's like I'm giving it gas, but I'm not. Is this the point where my RPM is at its MAX? I assumed so, so I started adjusting the idle screw valve. I have it to the point where it moves really slowly, but I can't get it to the point where it just stops.

After checking 3 different scooters I have from 4 to 6 1/2 turns out on the idle speed screw. Where does your idle mixture screw end up for best idle (how many turns out)?

[gookies]

It was around 3-4? The mixture screw is out two notches, in other terms. (I'm talking about the ridges on the screw)

[Bear45-70]

It was around 3-4? The mixture screw is out two notches, in other terms. (I'm talking about the ridges on the screw)

Turns is what counts, not threads showing.