Well since I had to tap my carb and worked on it and got the cut out on bumps fixed it just seems hard as * to start in the mornings have to warm it up on the stand and takes forever to pick up enough gas to run at stops especially on an incline sooo this morning I took the carb off. First I grinded on the new bolt to make the neck the same diameter as the original bolt thinking that might affect my float level with one side a fraction higher than the other. I noticed some grayer residue around the manifold where the gasket should seal so apparently I have a slight leak at that point so I applied a tiny bit of black silicone to that area and the face of the carb body with the oring just to see if that is my problem while I have it off before i hunt some new rubbers down also I might get some boos or hisses for this but I sorta figured my inlet in the bowl for the bystarter was clogged so i tried everything possible to unclog that tiny inlet to no avail. a small bit of grit may have become lodged in there at some point completely cutting off flow to the bystarter causing the original problem when i very first got it the barrel for the bystarter had lodged itself in the carb body and when someone removed it they broke it and lost the needle. Luckily it just popped off so i was able to put it back together after removing the brass from the carb with some needle nose...gently lol I imagine no gas or lubrication caused the brass to sieze in the carburater. This is the part I am gonna get talked bad about BUT I took a 1/16th sized drill bit and drilled the brass inlet in the float bloat so the passage to the bystarter would be open it may get more gas there than it needs but when the bystarter extends it will shut that part off right? also put in a new main needle and slide for * and giggles. Anyone have a carb gasket set laying around they dont use?? lol I will post shortly the results of my latest work.
1986 Spree/ Eve af16 swapped 65cc Prodigy vari 8g 9:1 Ruima gears
21mm OKO 42/100 32:1 45mph kymco zx exhaust
1994 Elite S 17.5mm Arreche, Daytona reeds, SEF ramp, pump plugged
1987 Elite SE50 af16 swapped
1989 Elite E SB50p
2003 Yamaha Zuma
This is the part I am gonna get talked bad about BUT I took a 1/16th sized drill bit and drilled the brass inlet in the float bloat so the passage to the bystarter would be open it may get more gas there than it needs but when the bystarter extends it will shut that part off right? a
That's a big drill. A Honda #80 main jet is about half the dia of a 1/16th" drill. IRC the bystarter orifice is above 0.010" and below 0.020".
The bystarter will close it down, but it will take a few minutes of the engine running to get there.
I think there's a Spree bowl at home with a clear bystarter orifice. Yours for shipping - if I've still got it:D
lo siento por favor el capitan If I recall correctly you are the NEWb asking me all the questions. This is for my stock spree, I have another spree that I have already done the swap on BUT I just love my spree with the original af05. This is hondaspree.net not hondaswapaspree.com so i want to do everything I can to keep my baby alive and in stock condition After i did all this stuff it would not start at all. I did a compression test which I might add I have not done on it since when I got it I didnt own a tester it was only around 60 with the starter and around 80 with the kick soooo i said f*** it and I took the head off. I am unhappy to report my spree needs a triple bypass lol the oil ring was broken and was probably in this state when I purchased it and by some miracle let me ride the * out of her before finally succumbing to low compression. I must say I did my 50 bucks outta her. the cylinder was a little scored but luckily I kept the piston and cylinder from the other engine i tore apart so all i need is a new set of rings to have her as good as new out of curiosity does anyone know why one has a flat piston and the other has a domed one? the head with the flat has a 7 by the model number and the domed has an 8. btw the 1/16th bit was the smallest i had and I may not need the float bowl mousewheels but I appreciate the offer I will let you know if i do
Attachments
IMAG0432.jpg (43.65 KiB) Viewed 2503 times
IMAG0431.jpg (51.71 KiB) Viewed 2503 times
IMAG0430.jpg (76.98 KiB) Viewed 2503 times
1986 Spree/ Eve af16 swapped 65cc Prodigy vari 8g 9:1 Ruima gears
21mm OKO 42/100 32:1 45mph kymco zx exhaust
1994 Elite S 17.5mm Arreche, Daytona reeds, SEF ramp, pump plugged
1987 Elite SE50 af16 swapped
1989 Elite E SB50p
2003 Yamaha Zuma
I think what finally caused her to give out was the sea foam i added to the gas, the sea foam therortically loosend the carbon deposits that had sealed the broken ring, just a guess but ran pretty good till I added that stuff
Attachments
IMAG0435.jpg (41.02 KiB) Viewed 2503 times
IMAG0434.jpg (31.48 KiB) Viewed 2503 times
IMAG0433.jpg (32.07 KiB) Viewed 2503 times
1986 Spree/ Eve af16 swapped 65cc Prodigy vari 8g 9:1 Ruima gears
21mm OKO 42/100 32:1 45mph kymco zx exhaust
1994 Elite S 17.5mm Arreche, Daytona reeds, SEF ramp, pump plugged
1987 Elite SE50 af16 swapped
1989 Elite E SB50p
2003 Yamaha Zuma
out of curiosity does anyone know why one has a flat piston and the other has a domed one? the head with the flat has a 7 by the model number and the domed has an 8
The 'dished' pistion is matched to a trumpet shaped head and is present in the 84/85 Spree as well as 84NN50, and 85/86 TG50 Gyros.
For 86/87 Spree and the SB50, Honda changed to the domed piston and a domed head.
A high compression combination is the 84/85 Spree head, 86/87 Spree or SB50 piston. There's a wiki topic on this.
-- Other pistons which fit Spree's/Gyro's --
AF05 piston from 85-87 Aero, 87 SE50, 88-93 SA50 are domed and fit
anyone know where to get a set of rings for the stock oem piston for less than 28 dollars shipped? if not i am gonna order them from powersportsPlus.com 20.50 plus 6.95 shipping
1986 Spree/ Eve af16 swapped 65cc Prodigy vari 8g 9:1 Ruima gears
21mm OKO 42/100 32:1 45mph kymco zx exhaust
1994 Elite S 17.5mm Arreche, Daytona reeds, SEF ramp, pump plugged
1987 Elite SE50 af16 swapped
1989 Elite E SB50p
2003 Yamaha Zuma
also I might get some boos or hisses for this but I sorta figured my inlet in the bowl for the bystarter was clogged so i tried everything possible to unclog that tiny inlet to no avail. a small bit of grit may have become lodged in there at some point completely cutting off flow to the bystarter causing the original problem when i very first got it the barrel for the bystarter had lodged itself in the carb body and when someone removed it they broke it and lost the needle. Luckily it just popped off so i was able to put it back together after removing the brass from the carb with some needle nose...gently lol I imagine no gas or lubrication caused the brass to sieze in the carburater. This is the part I am gonna get talked bad about BUT I took a 1/16th sized drill bit and drilled the brass inlet in the float bloat so the passage to the bystarter would be open 
it may get more gas there than it needs but when the bystarter extends it will shut that part off right? also put in a new main needle and slide for * and giggles. Anyone have a carb gasket set laying around they dont use?? lol I will post shortly the results of my latest work.
! 
it was only around 60 with the starter and around 80 with the kick soooo i said f*** it and I took the head off. I am unhappy to report my spree needs a triple bypass lol the oil ring was broken and was probably in this state when I purchased it and by some miracle let me ride the * out of her before finally succumbing to low compression. I must say I did my 50 bucks outta her. the cylinder was a little scored but luckily I kept the piston and cylinder from the other engine i tore apart so all i need is a new set of rings to have her as good as new 