85 Aero 50 HELP!!!!

[Aeromatics]

Hey guys im new here, but should be an appreciated member. Here's a little background: My dad bought a brand new 85 Honda Aero 50 back in the day, he drove it a couple times, then drained and stored it up untill now. I've been lookin at this thing my whole life (literally, im only 25). Bout a month or so ago he found the title and keys and just gave it to me. No this thing is mint, it was under a Cover and has no damage or scratches, in fact it only had 200 miles on it. I took it to a local bike shop who restored it for me. The restoration cost 150 bucks and included a new battery, air filer, cleaned carb, and fluids. Bike was running great, got it up to about 510 miles now... But i went on vacation for week and when i got back the bike wont start... I hold the brake down, and hit the push start and the engine turns over, but wont kick on. Now does this sound like a spark plug issue, or something else. I'd like to get it running, b/c i already did the title transfer and registered the bike, i also put new tires on the bike for my own peace of mind. (about $400 invested so far, not tryna spend too much more) But the bike just looks so clean, I'd post some pics if i knew how...

Please help me get this thing started up again!!!

[Dio89Elite]

Welcome to the forum!
Man, you've received a great gift! Please post pics when you can!

It's not starting because it was jealous that you went on vacation and didn't take it with you! j/k

If it was running well before you left for vacation, it should be an easy fix. =)
Trouble shoot using your manual (Section 16): http://www.hondaspree.net/other/Aero50_SM_85.pdf

[motormike]

Most unfortunate, but since the bike has already been freshened, the problem should be easy to diagnose. Spark plug wire come off ?? Inspect and test for spark.
Kill switch in the "ON" position.??
Is fuel getting to the carb ? (open drain screw on the bowl to see if fuel is present)

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Trouble-shoot systmatically, for sure. However my money's on MotorMike's idea that fuel isn't getting to the carb. Little rust in the tank can make its way to the petcock and/or jam the float needle. Also, 27 year-old rubber vac lines can crack from the shock of the heat of Internal Combustion and fail to hold enough vacuum to activate the petcock. Go away for 2 weeks, and the fuel that evaporated from the carb isn't being replaced at the low suction levels that occur cranking with the starter. Maybe replace the fuel lines along with vac?

[Aeromatics]

Thanks for the Tips, dont think is has anything to do with rust in the tank though. As the bike was moved from a military base in CA to FL, and they drained and stored the bike to a T, you know the military doesn't slip up. Even the guy who restored it was amazed with its condition, and even offered me 500$ cash for it, and wave the repair cost. Hoses sound more reasonable, rubber doesn't last forever... I was hoping this was something simple i could fix myself. (ie: spark plug)

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

For $3, that's usually the first thing I do on any machine. I've had it work 2 or 3 times too.
The fuel line can crumble internally given enough time. Maybe letting it stay dry for 20 years is worse that way?

[Aeromatics]

where is the best place to order parts for my bike?

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Depends what parts, doesn't it?
Honda dealers are under-rated. They can get stuff the next day if you order before lunch, and don't charge shipping.
For go-slightly-faster kits, I'd hit up RedEftPerformance on the Forum for Malossi top-end. Post WTB here if you decide to "tallify" your 11:1 gears or want a Ruckus variator. MotorcycleSuperstore.com for Pirelli SL-26 tires for around $23. Order a certain amount and shipping is free.

[Aeromatics]

Ok, so i topped off a little gas, and hooked up the battery to a portable charger all day yesterday, which did nothing... The brake light extra bright now, so i guess thats a plus... I tried to figure out how to get the plastics off but couldn't figure it out.. How do i get the plastics off so i can get to the engine? My next idea is to change the spark plug, and check all the tubing to make sure its not cracked or broken... Any other ideas? I've read the manual, but still cant figure out how to take plastics off. Can someone please help me out?

[donut]

View or print the service manual...

http://www.motorscooterguide.net/Honda/ ... ero50.html

[turtle13]

check the fuel/vacuum lines, change the plug, and if that doesn't work clean the carb, most specifically the idle jet. they are notorious for clogging and making it hard/impossible to start.

[Aeromatics]

OK, just for reference posting a link to the service manual doesn't help me at all, dont you think i looked at that already?

Anyways, i got all the fairings off and swapped out spark plug... Still not starting, the next goal now is to disassemble and clean the carb (a bold move i would never attempt, if it wasnt for this forum). Any tips for the goal ahead, i plan to do the carb clean tomorrow on my day off (definitly hoping its that Idle Jet Thanks Bud!). BTW, the engine under there Looks AMAZING, Suuuuuuper clean... I did manage to pull on a tube from the carb which instantly broke in half, think its just an overflow valve. But this got me thinking, if all the tubes are this brittle should i go ahead and swap them out? I noticed the tubes look similar to the clear tubes you can buy at wallmart for fish tanks air stones. Are these the same cheap plastic tubes, or is there a special tube i would need for this?

Im

[RZRob]

Been there done that, I just sold 2 virgin Aero scoots. When the guy did the carb rebuild, he probably overlooked the super-minute pinhole orifice in the bowl that feeds the bystarter (cold-start) system. This is easy to do as I've rebuilt lots of carbs and never had to deal with the bowl. My bet is if the bowl is pulled and a single strand from a piece of heavier gauge wire is poked through it, it'll come back to life. I hate to say it, but I believe the bystarters die (rot) just sitting, so this may end up being a continual issue.

My suggestion is to get comfortable accessing the carb yourself. Be careful with the body panels, and take note to return the screws to their proper spots. The two bolts holding the carb on are different lengths and mixing them up and damaging (ruining) the carb is common.

RZ Rob

[Bear45-70]

OK, just for reference posting a link to the service manual doesn't help me at all, dont you think i looked at that already?...............................

Over 95% of the questioners on here would rather someone else read the service manual for them. So the assumption, right or wrong, is that the service manual has NOT been consulted much less read. So do not be offend by the service manual reference, it is standard procedure. You are an exception to the rule if you even knew it existed much less read it.

[GearNut]

Do not use aquarium air tubes as a fuel line. They will turn rock hard and yellow in short time when exposed to gasoline.
Go to your local motorcycle shop and get 3/16" see through fuel line. You can buy it in a bag or by the foot. The most common is made by Helix and The line I got was labeled Parts Unlimited although it was made by Helix, blue in color.
While you are at it, get an in line fuel filter too. Pay attention to the flow direction arrow on the filter though. It will still work flowing backwards but clog up alot faster.
If you warm up (read- don't melt it) the end of the fuel line with a cigarette lighter it will be much easier to get onto the fuel filter barb. Just do this far away from any fuel vapors.
Click for fuel line link.
Click for fuel filter link.