Honda spree- partially stuck piston EXPERT NEEDED

Guitargraham · Post by **Guitargraham** » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:12 pm

So I rebuilt my spree (whole new top end) then it seized. Took off the cylinder and everything looked brand new. Put it back together with the old gaskets (from recent rebuild and now it runs but has a click at idle. I found where the tough spot is- on the upstroke. When I turn the engine over by hand it hits the tough spot but if I slightly force it, it clicks past. The clicking spot is what I took a picture of.

swimmingfree · Post by **swimmingfree** » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:15 pm

you may have a broke ring ..
swimmingfree

Guitargraham · Post by **Guitargraham** » Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:21 pm

Here is the piston in the head. Doesn't want to go up, but will go down. About to remove exhaust and remove cylinder to check for a broken ring.

Guitargraham · Post by **Guitargraham** » Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:30 pm

Not a broken ring! Doesn't like to move up past this spot... What the *? Only on upstroke

patthesoundguy · Post by **patthesoundguy** » Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:39 pm

That really sucks. Take a nice bright flashlight and shine it down in there and have a look, maybe you have a wayward piece of piston skirt jammed in there. Or maybe there is another issue like a bent crank or somthing keeping it from rotating like a transmission issue maybe. Hope you get it sorted out

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Carnie · Post by **Carnie** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 2:24 am

Did you hone the cylinder after the new top end?

Carnie · Post by **Carnie** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 2:24 am

Or technically before installation

swimmingfree · Post by **swimmingfree** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:56 am

on the piston are ring stop make sure the ring are using them
swimmingfree

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:22 am

it is possible that since you are using n aftermarket cylinder that the transfer ports in that area are sharp and catching the ring on the upstroke. try smoothing out the edges of the ports preferably with a flex hone. it can be done with a tiny file or emery board in a pinch just be careful

patthesoundguy · Post by **patthesoundguy** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 2:35 pm

The picture looks like the bore is removed and the piston wont come up out of the case to even see the sides of it. It looks like the crank wont spin. Also th picture of the bore looks way too shiny. Did you heat cycle the new top end before riding it. Did the bore have a cross hatch pattern on the walls. And im with mystic on the rings possibly catch up in the transfer ports. I always chamfer those on bores even if im just honing an already used bore. If the bore wasnt honed right from the getgo that cylinder will have very poor performance and may seize easy on break in. I like to hone new cylinders somtimes if the factory job isnt good enough. 8 bucks on a brake cylinder hone goes a long way. I really ought to pick up some flex hones as well.

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Guitargraham · Post by **Guitargraham** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 2:52 pm

Hold on, excuse my lack of experience but the cylinder is off and the crank still had the tough point! It still goes past, just with some difficulty. I don't think it would have to do with the rings because it has the sticking point without the cylinder on!!
BTW- I bought a very cheap kit off ebay- http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-NQ50-SPRE ... 69&vxp=mtr only 85 bucks.
To break it in, I rode it lightly without going WOT for about two tanks. I only recently learned about heat cycling! Do I need to bore, or would that make no difference to the clicking point?

Post by **noiseguy** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 3:41 pm

Your main bearings are shot. Need to split case.

Guitargraham · Post by **Guitargraham** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 4:21 pm

It still runs ok though, should I just put back together and use or will it worsen?
Where do I get these bearings you speak of?

Mystic · Post by **Mystic** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 5:25 pm

if it is sticking with cylinder off take the drive puly and flywheel off the├▒ see if it still sticks. if so then i am with noiseguy... order new crank bearings from honda. i use powersportsplus.com

patthesoundguy · Post by **patthesoundguy** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 6:34 pm

I'm with noise guy and mystic, if the it doesn't run free after taking the drive train apart get crank bearings AND seals. If you split the cases replace them while you are at it. When crank seals go bad it will refuse to run or run lean and burn up the piston.

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