Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

hello! So I notice today that my tank was on empty and im thinking how odd cuz I had 3/4 on Tuesday and I havnt driven much. I filled it up today and I noticed there is a leak under the carb. I never noticed any leaks before. It is coming from a small pipe behind the carb behind where the air filter connects. I couldn't find any info on what that piece is. I was reading around the board. Is that just and overfill drain? I may possibly have a float issue or something, from what im guessing. I will get a pic up here in a bit. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks

Yes, the line at the backside of the carb, near the mounting flange is an overflow.

See pics in the "SB50" section of this wiki topic -- Link - click me!

Float needle tip as well as float seat issues do cause leakage. Foreign material from old fuel line, or a missing fuel tank strainer can also cause seat leakage.

There is a photo guide for carb cleaning which shows photos of float needle and seat issuesat this link

Well that was easy.....haha

I took the carb off. Went to start cleaning and noticed a huge crack all the way through. Idk how that even happens. So should i buy a new carb off the wincycles site? I am ok with buying a used one but is it better to get a new one? Is the quality of those any good?

Thanks guys

Wow never seen a carb crack like that. Also looks like the bystarter is broke too that brass piece shouldn't be there. Might be easier just to get a new carb but it will be a Chinese aftermarket and you will have to block off the oil inlet. If you can find a clean oem carb might save u some headache

You talking about the brass in the first pic? In the center ring?

Greetings:

That center ring is a part that belongs on the bystarter. If it stuck in the slot the way it did, you can bet that resin cemented it in, and the bystarter's little rod broke when the assembly was removed. The previous owner evidently overtightened the flange mount, causing the crack. You can see how it "folded over" the centerline.

The fEeBaY stuff reportedly isn't worth even the low price the vendors charge - you'd be far better off scoring a known-good Honda item from someone here who's removed it to fit something from the aftermarket.

What is the proper way to remove the bystarter? Should it just pull up? I wasn't the one who removed it but it did make a slight pop noise when removed. And right before that I was saying I dont know how to remove that.... I'll post up a pic of the end of that later. If its broken I wouldnt know. And that person wont be touching my spree anymore lol. This is the link I am looking at for the new carb http://wincycles.com/p1005/Honda-NQ50-S ... _info.html doesnt say anything about blocking off an oil inlet.

You can get spree carb bodies without any of the other parts and then you can just fit all of the parts from your carb with a new bystarter and off you go. The bystarter should just pull up and out of the carb after removing the retaining ring and screws. It must have been messed up and or stuck in there as whellman pointed out. I cant see any way to remove improperly unless it was forced sideways on pulling. It would have been real obvious if you were watching at the time and think.

Ok good news! I finally managed to get a whole spree for parts! So stoked. I was back n forth for two weeks trying to arrange it. So I got the carb off that one this morning and cleaned it up real good. And Im praying everything will be ok when I get it back together. stay tuned

Vintagegirl85 wrote:Ok good news! I finally managed to get a whole spree for parts! So stoked. I was back n forth for two weeks trying to arrange it. So I got the carb off that one this morning and cleaned it up real good. And Im praying everything will be ok when I get it back together. stay tuned

So glad to hear the great news. You'll be ripping around in no time now.

Ok finally got the time to put the new carb on but bike wont start. Turns over. Adjusted the screws as close as i could. Any tricks?

Make sure the idle speed screw isn't too far in or it may want to take off when it does start. Set the idle air screw to about 1.5 or a little more out for a starting point. Try hand choking the intake while cranking. Bystarter installed? Make sure the air hose is hooked up and the air filter is in good shape and oiled properly.

I think ive got it going now. Few noob questions. Should the back wheel be spinning while started on the stand? And i hear a clinky noise in the gear box. I opened it up and it all seems ok. Gears dont look stripped.

The rear wheel shouldn't really spin while on the stand. Its a good time to get the manual out and do the set up procedure for the idle air mixture and idle speed. Usually when the rear wheel starts to spin is just a little too high and idle rpm. If the scoot starts good and comes off the line with no trouble just back the idle speed screw out a little until the wheel stops spinning I wonder if the bearings in the final drive case are toast that could cause a clicking. I'd put in synthetic oil and fill the final drive case to about half an inch from the fill hole and top it off with Lucas oil additive. That will hopefully quiet things down and of the bearings are toast it will still be in need of repair but if they are fine the noise should be quieter or go away. I didn't realize how much noise was coming for m my spree final drive until I put new synthetic oil in it and used Lucas in there. It was a whole new machine.

Greetings:

The pulley bearing drag spins the transmission shaft, a little, even with the clutch disengaged at idle speed. For that reason the rear wheel will rotate slowly at idle. But you should be able to stop it with a finger or a light pull on the rear brake. If it's hard to stop, check the pulley bearings for damage.