Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Meat,

Bam! You nailed it. The slide wasn’t all the way down. I didn’t realize the slide had to be pushed all the way down. It was plainly obvious it was wrong when I assembled the throttle cable and slid on the carb with the carb off the bike.

She started up, idled great, and then after about 30 seconds the rpms slowly started increasing. It’s 33 degrees F here today so maybe that was the choke (right next to the throttle slide area)? I know I’m getting gas and spark but now I can’t keep it running nor can I get the rpms above idle using the throttle unless I’m on straight starting fluid. With starting fluid, the throttle revs the engine well. Without, it if I add any throttle, it dies. Perhaps it’s due to the outside air temp yet...?

Anyways, thanks for giving me different things to look at. The main full throttle issue is fixed. I think the elbow from the air box is leaking though.

NOW you can crank up that idle screw and make it purr. The auto choke (bystarter) will have it revving higher than normal for about the first 20-30 seconds or so on cold starts. Then it will settle down to normal idle once she’s warm. Do your idle tuning when its warmed up or youre wasting your time.

Cant keep running now, eh? The outside temp or an airbox leak wont cause this. Something else is the issue here.

I think I saw starting fluid leaking out of the intake elbow where it meets the carb. The elbow doesn’t line up well. I think I need to attach the elbow first and then screw the mounting bolts into the carb. d*** it feels good to hear this thing getting closer to running. I’m going to be tearing into a Metropolitan after I get this thing running. My real project is rebuilding a ‘73 mercruiser pre-alpha outdrive so I can do some boating this COVID19 summer.

I’ll do some forum searching for issues regarding rough running now that the “full throttle” issue is resolved.

Take a picture of the intake/carb area and post it.

Sorry, got stuck at work. Here are some photos. Disregard the loose clamp on the intake/carb junction.

Filler

I know the airbox/carb clamp is loose and out of place. That wasn’t the problem.

How is this gasket supposed to be orientated? Should the rubber O-rings be mated together or opposite?

Here is how I think the intake elbow is supposed to be on the carb. I imagine if there’s an air leak, I can find it by spraying starting fluid around the elbow.

Looks clean...the o-rings do not mate with each other. Also, the plastic spacer is directional so if you have it upside-down the hole will be misaligned inside. Looks like you have it correct by seeing the tiny arrow cast into the edge.

Use caution when torquing the carb bolts to the intake. They thread into the soft metal of the carb and will strip easily if cranked on too tight. Fingertip pressure on the wrench when tightening these!

Also, be sure not to mix up the two carb mounting bolts. As youve noticed, they are slightly different lengths. Permanent damage to the carb will occur if they get mixed up.

The bystarter area (auto choke): the pics make it tough to be certain but...the bystarter has a thin o-ring on the neck to create a good seal when shoved into the carb...do I see the o-ring pinched and poking out a bit?

I’ll take a look at that and snap a better pic.

Right now, I can get it to idle indefinitely if I have the throttle pinned wide open. When I spray starting fluid into the intake, rpms increase so it appears to be a fuel delivery issue now which seems odd as it would run non-stop at full throttle when I had the air filter removed.

I’m replacing the fuel lines as a precaution. I’m cleaning the petcock now. Should I just replace the petcock with a new one?

I sprayed starting fluid all around the carb and air box elbow with the scooter running. No change to rpms.

The gasket on the bystarter isn’t minty but it’s not poking out anywhere I can see. I think it’s just a lighting illusion that makes it look wonky. It fits snugly in the hole.

Crap, I think I found the problem. Whatever this piece is probably belongs inside the carburetor is my guess.

That MAIN JET... Uhm, yeah, might need that.