Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Hi guys,

I picked up an 86 Spree with 1900 miles on the odo last week and with NO idea when it was last run. The guy I bought it from got it as part payment for something from the orig owner in norcal. Anyway, he bought a battery, but he could only get the lights to turn on- lol, shocker! I offered him 250 and he said yes! Took it home and cleaned and began tear down. Spark plug, carb cleaning, air filter, fuel lines, trans oil and that got her going, and purring like a kitten. There are a few things left to do, the brakes are weird, when they engage they want to stay engaged, but when I disassembled the from drum it actuates as it should... maybe both brake cables get snagged in there somewhere.. TBD.

My buddy who is more technical than I, suggested I run 70/1 mix on the tank from the get go, because we don't know if the oil pump works. The oil tank was almost all the way full, and a guy at a lawn more shop told me that oil doesn't really go bad, so just leave it and let it do it's thing. Well my question is, how will I know it's working (besides watching the level go down (hopefully it does)... or should I remove and empty that tank and put fresh oil and clean that screen?

I ran the bike yesterday for 20 minutes did a couple of runs (30mph) but seems she'll pull a tiny bit more, but I'd rather have the peace of mind the oil system is mixing/working as it should. Much appreciated guys, sorry for the whole back story, excited to continue to ride this lil guy!

nevermind... oil is def going down, so I'm guessing it all works as designed. I'll just top off with normal fuel from now on.

Yeah, the oil pumps are very reliable.
You can check the flow by removing the oil line to the intake,
run the engine on premix, and watch the oil line to observe dripping.
It is slow, but you can definitely tell when it is pumping.

Greetings:

The brakes are operated by a steel cam that's embedded into the aluminum brake panel plate. Galvanic action causes corrosion betwixt. Remove the brake panels, tap (Might require Persuasion...) the cams out, clean with a wire brush and slather liberally with lithium grease, taking care that the grease doesn't enter the braking chamber itself. Reinstall and I'm predicting the brakes won't stay locked on. If they do, the cables or the fulcrum at the brake handle are suspect. Cable-lube kits from any motorcycle store can pressure-oil the cables. Lube the fulcrum bushing at the handlebars. If the brakes are still balky, find and install replacement cables.

I have verified that the arms/actuators at the drum are free and clear and articulate properly. I seems to me that the cable is bad. I have ordered a new front cable, when it gets here I'll test that out by installing it on the front, hopefully that cures the issue, and I'll then TRY to source a rear cable.

Thanks guys!

Slightly waking the thread up again.. So just to clarify, if oil wasn't pumping, I'd quickly know that because I would seize the piston, right?

I haven't taken her on a big ride, just running her up and down the block for maybe 3 miles worth of riding, I had added 1/70 mix on the gas tank itself but then ran straight gas (because I thought oil level was going down, and I still think it has slightly), but to the experts here, I guess you know it's working and pumping oil because she's still running fine, right? and how many miles are you guys generally getting per oil tank?

Greetings:

It probably would've seized by now without either premixed fuel or a working pump. It's been a while since I've ridden a pump-equipped bike, but from (Dim) recollection, you can fill the fuel tank a ton of times before the oil tank runs dry. (10? tanksful)