Bystarter/autochoke delete on 1985 Aero 80 with new carb?

[1ManRaid]

As recommended by just about everyone, I bought a new carb for the Aero 80 I just picked up. Of course despite the listing specifically saying it's for an '85 NH80, it has a 48mm intake mount vs the 43mm stock. No big deal, I can rig up an adapter with scrap and zip ties. My issue is that all the posts and videos I've found about dealing with an unwanted bystarter is how to bypass it on a stock carb, which has connections for it new carbs won't have. It's a weird contradiction, everyone recommends both the bypass and upgrading the carb, but my idiot self can't find anyone talking about how to address the bypass WITH a new carb. Can I just plug the lines for the system to "delete" if I'm running manual choke straight off the carb?

I can't even do the bypass on the old carb atm because a thief made off with my tools this morning, and for some reason grabbed the cup with the old grimy lawnmower fuel filter and shut off valve while leaving brand new carbs behind.

I guess while I'm here I should also ask about what I guess to be some sort of bowl overflow dump on the back of the stock carb? After cleaning out the 5-10+ year old varnished gas and cleaning the jets, then putting it back together seemingly properly, it started dumping fuel out of what is apparently the drain tube and this extra little 90 degree bend tube on the back. Seller said it ran fine when he last checked on it 5 years ago, so it's weird the carb is doing this after cleaning as shouldn't the float stop it from overfilling like that?

*edit*
Nope, found the shut off valve. Guess the cup just got moved. So I can do the bypass with the old carb at least if I address it peeing gas.

[motormike]

First, yes, you can block all the hoses associated with the choke if your new carb has a manual choke.
Second, thieves need to be hung, shot, boiled in oil, and sodomized.
Third, I would do a very close inspection of the brass tube that is associated with the overflow. I have seen(several times) that brass tube SPLIT at the seam because the scooter had been left exposed to cold and the freezing water in the bowl would do that damage to the tube...causing it to dump fuel constantly.
Hope this is easy for you to find. Can be soldered if not too bad.

[1ManRaid]

First, yes, you can block all the hoses associated with the choke if your new carb has a manual choke.
Second, thieves need to be hung, shot, boiled in oil, and sodomized.
Third, I would do a very close inspection of the brass tube that is associated with the overflow. I have seen(several times) that brass tube SPLIT at the seam because the scooter had been left exposed to cold and the freezing water in the bowl would do that damage to the tube...causing it to dump fuel constantly.
Hope this is easy for you to find. Can be soldered if not too bad.

Thanks. I'll check the overflow tubes more closely. Either way, if I can just plug the other lines I'll just do that and put the new carb in. Only downside with the new card is the choke lever is on the inconvenient side putting it on the inside of the scooter.

What's your opinion on disabling the oil injection and using the oil tank as extra/reserve fuel capacity. Is there a simplest or best way to do that?

[motormike]

My personal choice is to maintain oil pumps in use and enjoy the convenience of pumping gas into the tank without any hassle or any constant carrying oil with me. Converting the oil tank to reserve fuel supply is done, but since I've never done it, no opinion.
I have a great deal of confidence in oil pumps. When people start modifying engines, then pre-mixing starts to make sense. Heat gauge addition to your scooter will save you from going lean and burning it down.

[1ManRaid]

My personal choice is to maintain oil pumps in use and enjoy the convenience of pumping gas into the tank without any hassle or any constant carrying oil with me. Converting the oil tank to reserve fuel supply is done, but since I've never done it, no opinion.
I have a great deal of confidence in oil pumps. When people start modifying engines, then pre-mixing starts to make sense. Heat gauge addition to your scooter will save you from going lean and burning it down.

I was mainly asking about the oil out of laziness. Cleaning out the fuel system and carb was easy enough, but checking the function of and cleaning out the oil system seemed like a hassle lol. I've heard of some oil screen or filter that can get clogged with bacteria? The bike has sat virtually untouched in a garage for over a decade, so figured it might be easiest to just drain the oil tank and splice the line into the fuel system. I already have plenty of premeasured vials and bottles for litre/gallon doses of oil so mixing is a non issue.

As for performance modding, these Aero 80s are plenty fast enough for my needs so I don't anticipate going for more than bolt-ons (like my new carb) or simple (i.e. cheap) mods. Probably a Boyesen reed if I can find a local shop selling them, as recommended. The temperature thing sounds handy though.

[kamini012]

Proportionately with a 1985 Aero 80 scooter that has been updated with a carburetor. The bystarter, also referred to as an autochoker, facilitates a cold start by enrichment of the air-fuel mixture. However, with a fresh carburetor, the choke may be implemented slightly differently or entirely unnecessary. If you opt to remove the bystarter/autochoke, check that the idle combination screw and throttle slide are correctly adjusted for a smooth idle and warm-up performance. It's advisable to seek guidance from a qualified mechanical professional or refer to the scooter's manual for detailed guidance on carburetor modifications.