New Cylinder/Piston/rings, now wont run

Farfignugin · Post by **Farfignugin** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:38 am

Still trying to get my '85 Spree running, but to no avail. It starts up fine when cold or has been sitting for a while and it idles fine. But after around 1/4 throttle it starts to seem like it wants to back-fire but it doesn't, it more of just puffs (guess that's how to describe it). Afterwards I can't keep it running. But it starts up just fine. It's also putting out a lot of smoke. (while on the topic how tight is the oiler supposed to be? Is it supposed to be able to move a little?).

Please help me get this thing running. If I can't I will be putting it up for local sale to start to raise money for a Honda Metropolitan.

Thanks in advance!

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 12:10 pm

bad bystarter

Farfignugin · Post by **Farfignugin** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 12:44 pm

How do I eliminate the bystarter to test if it is the cause?[/img]

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 1:07 pm

you remove itfrom the carb and apply 12volts to it the needle should move slowly

http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1504
hold the yellow lead on the positive terminal and the green lead on the negative terminal of the spree's battery. It is better if you do this carefully with some alligator clips, but if you are patient, you should(very slowly) see the needle valve move outwards as long as you hold it there(to an extent of course). If it moves, you know it's operating good; if it doesn't, then either you didn't install it correctly, or you need a new by-starter.

Farfignugin · Post by **Farfignugin** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 2:27 pm

Tested it and it worked fine...but I lost the spring for it so I eliminated it completely. Still starts up and will idle forever nicely but once you give more than 1/4 throttle it starts to cut off and pop a little (more of a heavy puff of air or something).

Farfignugin · Post by **Farfignugin** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 4:15 pm

well good news and semi-bad news. Got it running nice again...the spark plug was cracked, put in a new one and it runs fine. Although here is the semi-bad news: At around half throttle while coming from a stop or going up a hill it seems to want to die out (not like before where it popped but rather just slowly die). Runs fine otherwise. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advanced.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 6:19 pm

you need the bystarter in there for it to run properly if you must just make it so the needle is always down like when you give it power

Farfignugin · Post by **Farfignugin** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:27 am

Thats what I did, I used the bystarter barrel and needle and a rubber stopper to plug up the hole. Starts and runs fine, but as I said, if you go half throttle from a stop or up a hill it starts to die out like it has no power.

Pygmaelion · Post by **Pygmaelion** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:50 pm

Had a similar problem with my '90 SB50P Elite E.

I cleaned out the carb a good half dozen times, discovering all manner of new gunk that was coming through the system. It never hurts to go through your arb one more time carefully. This is doubly true when you are "in a hurry to get running" and didn't clean out the oil and gas lines ahead of time.

I thought for a long time my "bog out" was due to the bystarter, so I took it out, and replaced it with a stack of pennies. The idea was that while there would still be gas flowing out of that choke jet, there wouldn't be any free flowing air going into the system. The pennies plugged the hole where the casing of the bystarter would have been.

However, neither of these were my problem. My problem turned out to be a filthy, gunked up muffler. I'm pretty sure there's a post on here concerning "best practices" for cleaning all that deceased 2-stroke oil out without destroying your exhaust system. Most of them have to do with getting your pipe "just hot enough" to ignite the gunk, but not turn the part into slag.

If you are confident that your carb is squeaky clean, then check your exhaust. Good Luck!

Pygmaelion · Post by **Pygmaelion** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:54 pm

Make note that I did put my bystarter back in, in the end. If you're planning on taking it out permanently, you need to make sure you're accounting for the fuel coming through that jet all the time.

You can try plugging it, but then you'll have to somehow choke the bike manually on startup (or develop a huge kicking leg and lots of patience). You can leave it open but you'll get extra fuel all the time (could cause you to run rich...)

The best thing you can do, is to get that bystarter back together as best you can. Arguably it's worth replacing, but since none of us are here because we're filthy rich... do your best to put it back together, and run it as it is. Screwing with "the way Honda intended" will put everything else a little more out of whack. You may get it to work in the end, but there's a lot of not working in the middle.

Farfignugin · Post by **Farfignugin** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 11:02 am

I've gotten rid of the bystarter by using the barrel and needle from the bystarter to plug the hole then a rubber stopper and golf tee to keep everything in place. Bike starts up fine on warm days, but on cold days I only have to plug the air filter intake for a little bit (I'm running without the sidepanels).