I have an 86 spree with a scratched up piston and sleeve, I have read that the piston can have scratches since the rings are what make the seal against the sleeve, but the sleeve will need to be replaced. Does anyone know if this is true, and also what is the part number for stock 86 piston? There are a bunch of different rings on the microfiche parts websites, some part numbers would be helpful.
Thanks
piston ring size need help
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- CBR1000RR
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- CBR1000RR
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- Wheelman-111
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Boring Engine Work
Greetings:
It all depends on the depth of the scratches in the cylinder walls. If they don't quite catch a fingernail, a wise old Forum member used to say, you can get away with honing the cylinder. A hone is a contraption that attaches to a drill and looks like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=97163
Note that the size of this one is too small for your 40-ish mm bore, but they make all sizes. Hook it up to your trusty black and decker AFTER you measure the cylinder as it stands now, at three levels at least - top, middle, bottom. Then go to town. How much material you remove will deterime if the piston can go back in.
It can always go back in if you're making the hole a bit bigger, but may not work right. Piston slap is a noise caused by a too-small piston or worn cylinder - the piston rattles around in there as it changes direction about two hundred times every second.
If the scratches are deeper than a hone can remove, then a bore job is necessary:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=33562
Unlike a hone, a cylinder bore tool needs precision guidance with big heavy machines to produce accurate results. The idea is to remove a precise, known amount of material. This takes out the grooves and scratches and creates enough room in your cylinder to insert a specific "Oversize" piston, available from the manufacturer in 1st, 2nd, etc. sizes. If your standard piston is 40mm, for example, the oversize available might be 40.125mm, 40.250, etc.
I've never had a cylinder bored, so can't say how much it costs. Maybe someone here can help you. Machine shops charge to do this - you make your own deal wherever you are. Call any dealer or machine shop and ask. If you are quoted a price, maybe help someone else by posting? That's how we help each other. I'd like to know myself.
It all depends on the depth of the scratches in the cylinder walls. If they don't quite catch a fingernail, a wise old Forum member used to say, you can get away with honing the cylinder. A hone is a contraption that attaches to a drill and looks like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=97163
Note that the size of this one is too small for your 40-ish mm bore, but they make all sizes. Hook it up to your trusty black and decker AFTER you measure the cylinder as it stands now, at three levels at least - top, middle, bottom. Then go to town. How much material you remove will deterime if the piston can go back in.
It can always go back in if you're making the hole a bit bigger, but may not work right. Piston slap is a noise caused by a too-small piston or worn cylinder - the piston rattles around in there as it changes direction about two hundred times every second.
If the scratches are deeper than a hone can remove, then a bore job is necessary:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=33562
Unlike a hone, a cylinder bore tool needs precision guidance with big heavy machines to produce accurate results. The idea is to remove a precise, known amount of material. This takes out the grooves and scratches and creates enough room in your cylinder to insert a specific "Oversize" piston, available from the manufacturer in 1st, 2nd, etc. sizes. If your standard piston is 40mm, for example, the oversize available might be 40.125mm, 40.250, etc.
I've never had a cylinder bored, so can't say how much it costs. Maybe someone here can help you. Machine shops charge to do this - you make your own deal wherever you are. Call any dealer or machine shop and ask. If you are quoted a price, maybe help someone else by posting? That's how we help each other. I'd like to know myself.
Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
The last cylinder I worked on had a pretty good line scored into it. After honing it turned out to only be a thousanths or two deep. Not enough to need a bigger piston. Looking at it I would have sworn that it was going to take a rebore. I would hone first, then measure, then decide on the rebore. While honing keep the stones flushed off with mineral spirits. If you don't they clog up and not cut well.
It's been a very long time since I had a shop bore a cylinder for me. At the time it was only about $20. Now I wouldn't be surprised if it was closer to $50.
keithw
It's been a very long time since I had a shop bore a cylinder for me. At the time it was only about $20. Now I wouldn't be surprised if it was closer to $50.
keithw
Honda Pal (Speed-o-scooter) JDM Spree with varator trans.
Honda Spree, 1985.
Another Honda Pal
Let's give it a try, how hard could it be?
Honda Spree, 1985.
Another Honda Pal
Let's give it a try, how hard could it be?
- scooterwerx
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