New to forum, mods for a dio

[JJ Joseph]

I might recommend the economical way of eliminating the possibility of a faulty pump by tossing it in the bin and obtaining a plug. It can cost as little as $2.17 in US Currency , but VT Cycles sells sells a ready-made one. Then run 32:1 premix and that leaky pump issue goes away.

I'm not convinced that's a such good idea. These scooters are not unlike ultralight airplanes with 2-stroke engines. When running on gas/oil mix, they'll run out of oil while descending at part throttle, thereby scoring the heck out of their nice shiny expensive pistons. So ultralight 2-stroke engines use an oil pump to ensure a good oil supply during downhill part-throttle ops. It would seem to me that scooters can run out of oil the same way as ultralights can. On the other hand, running an oil pump PLUS mixed gas might cause an over-oiling situation, thereby explaining the oiled-up silencer and puddles of oil in the crankcase.

BTW: earlier in this thread, the OP asked what's in carb cleaner. Answer: toluene. It's cheap, $7/litre at paint shops, and it cleans all the crusty crud out of your carb if you soak it overnight. You'll be amazed how much crud comes off. Disassemble everything, and only soak the metal bits, though. Blow the jets out with a WD-40 spray bomb.

[808BMW]

Or blip the throttle during downhill runs for the same reason, that's what I do.

[wiguy05]

Or blip the throttle during downhill runs for the same reason, that's what I do.

This is also what I do.

Many blips when coming down from a big WOT pull.

[hughjass63]

Okay, for anyone who is still interested, after much personal angst I finally got the courage to pull out the main seals and replace them on my AF18e dio donk. Did not end up too much trouble or time. I decided not to split the cases as this would have been a bit much for me at the moment, and i thoroughly cleaned and checked the cases and did not see any sign of leakage.

Unfortunately, the new main seals did not seem to change things at all. The dio will still cruise well, but when backing off the throttle the power disappears and it takes about another 5-10 seconds to get the revs back up to power. This is particularly noticable once it warms up. I ride along, then stop, then it takes ages to build up the revs so that it will even move from a stand still.

My next step is to cut open exhaust to see if it is blocked.

But to tell the truth, I am not sure I can keep going on. I have done new bore, piston, head, main seals, carby reco, new plug. If it still wont run properly after pipe, I think I will wind up my time with dio. One year on and I still don't have a properly running bike

Any far-out or sensible ideas welcome.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Welcome back, Hugh. Quoth he:

My next step is to cut open exhaust to see if it is blocked.

With 27K Klics, that's not an "IF", but a "how bad". I shoulda known sooner...

[hughjass63]

Nice to hear from you wheelman. Is 11pm in Adelaide and I was heading off to bed but was hoping I might catch you.

Just out of interest, do you put locktight or similar on the flywheel and variator crank threads? In the manual it said something about actually oiling them, but I have never done that before.

Also, any idea of where I should start cutting the exhaust open?

Jon

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I never have LocTited either end. Just use the correct torque and it should be OK. It is under some pressure from the belt tension, and I've never had one get loose.

You could try the Campfire Roast on your pipe, then knock out the powdered carbon and repaint with BBQ paint. Better still, consider an aftermarket replacement.

[hughjass63]

Thanks again guys for the ideas.

Well, I burned out the pipe using a gas torch and compressor (not the usual way I admit, but it made a * of a lot of smoke, so it was burning something). Unfortunately, no change to performance.

Here is the problem in short: This dio will go fine flat out, but does not accelerate well but rather splutters it way to power

So here are my deductions:
- it is not fuel pump, as tested and has plenty of flow. (there is enough fuel, otherwise it would not keep going flat out)
- it is not intake manifold or reeds as reeds okay and all flange surfaces sealed.
- it is not spark plug as I have replaced with new.
- it is not main seals as they have been replaced.
- it is not air filter as has new foam, is clean, and box is drilled (4x 1inch holes).
- it is not pipe as has been burned out with gas torch
- it is not drive train as new variator, weights, and kevlar belt

So, here are my remaining possibilities:
- other electronics? generator? Coil? Other?
- carby may have fault of unknown origin that may have not been fixed by carby service kit. (Jet drilled to 1mm)

Possible solutions:
- new carb?
- new black box ignition?
- new coil?
- new bike!!!???

Any suggestions or comments welcome.
Jon

[Bear45-70]

Oiling threads is to give you a smooth progression in tightness when torquing nuts and bolts. Loctite will preform this same lube function with the addition of helping to retain the nut or bolt better. I have never had Loctite cause an issue and am a big fan of the stuff. Just make sure you use the right type for your nut, bolt, seal, bearing, sleeve, etc. Otherwise read the label.

[hughjass63]

Anyone had experience with this pipe?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... K:MEWAX:IT

Price is right, but only if it is a goer.

Jon

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I had its lower-performing second cousin which was just fine for my Nikasil and other low-end applications. The "sectional" header and larger 29mm diameter makes that one a bit more top-end biased than mine was. No direct experience with the one in your post but several posts read here suggest that this exhaust is a "goer". (Kiwi Pronunciation is "Geoah" for us Western Hemisphericals )

Surely almost anything will be superior to the sludged-up stocker you have now. The Taiwan Vendor's price is good, but pity about the shipping...

See if JiangWayne in Vancouver BC Canada will give you a fellow UK-er a discounted shipping cost. They have a 32mm version of the pipe in your post as well as this one, which may be better-suited to a closer-to-stock build. Still better than a new stock pipe.

[hughjass63]

Low on money again, and still pondering other solutions to my problem before anymore hot up bits.

Does anyone know if there is any way I can temporarily plug the autolube hole, try running on premix, and then removing it again if it doesn't work? I am thinking of something like a hard rubber plug about the size of a wine bottle cork.

Even if this doesn't work, it would narrow down what might work.

Any suggestions welcome.

Jon
(PS Wheelman: I'm not Kiwi, not UK, but bloody Australian! )

[fastplastic]

wikispeedia has the bolt, and american change way of making an oil pump plug

[hughjass63]

Thanks for response fastplastic, but I am not sure what you mean. Can you dumb it down a bit for me?
Jon

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Sorry for my indelicate Kiwi inference, Oz Hugh! I didn't realize History had changed and that Australia has severed all its ties to the Queen. Whose picture appear on your coins, anyway?

Speakin o'coins, FP was talking about This Thread

Not so handy if your shillings, farthings and tuppences (still teasing, Mate! ) don't match the Wholesome American Diameters, however. May I recommend you try to source a Proper Purpose-built Pump Plug there deaouwn undah? If the Milieu for Maniacal Modding isn't active in Oz, it may not be easy to find.

In that case, consider a call to Steve at VTCycles in Hawaii (808.593.7733). Tell 'im Wheelman sentcha. (he'll charge you more...) or browse the Go-Slightly-Faster website in your neck o' the Outback for such products. I recommend you don't just try to install an external plug like a boat bilge stopper. Aside from the risk of a vacuum leak, the crankcase volume is a sensitive thing for performance. People go to such lengths as to "stuff" their crankshafts with Teflon inserts so as to minimize it. Just a cap on the outer end of the plug socket will open up some volume behind, which reduces charge transfer efficiency.