Actually a chain wrench works better on a sprocket. But not every on has or can afford a chain wrench.steffen707 wrote:You mean use the strap wrench on the teeth of the front pulley so that isolates the crank from getting shocked by the impact?eclypse wrote:
Just use that to grab the teeth and then put a wrench on the nut to tighten or loosen it.
I don't use the impact to put those nuts on, but I use them to take the nuts off, and i just want to understand what technique you guys are using to avoid this "pressed on crank" screwing up the counter weight thing.
Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
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Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
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- steffen707
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Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
plus don't you have to have the right chain because if loops aren't spaced right, then they wouldn't grip the teeth right?
87 Honda Spree,
XX Yamaha YSR50
92 Yamaha Jog -> Stock.
05 Kymco Super 9-> My cruiser
xx Honda Gyro -> Man I gotta fix that.
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XX Yamaha YSR50
92 Yamaha Jog -> Stock.
05 Kymco Super 9-> My cruiser
xx Honda Gyro -> Man I gotta fix that.
98 Honda Elite S -> corsa, pg long, 24mm oko, ct chrome, ZX trans w/ ruckus variator, trailtech vapor gauges
Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
The chain just need to grab a few of the teeth, not all of them.steffen707 wrote:plus don't you have to have the right chain because if loops aren't spaced right, then they wouldn't grip the teeth right?
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- martynkim
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Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
I just use a pair of vise grips and an impact. Then when reinstalling use LOCTITE.
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- steffen707
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Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
whatever you are grabbing with the vise grips is getting marred or scratched, if you mean the front pulley, then you're scratching the pulley face.martynkim wrote:I just use a pair of vise grips and an impact. Then when reinstalling use LOCTITE.
Also, the use of loctite is a bad idea and not needed. Just torque it to correct spec and the nut should never come off. if you use too much loctite, it could fly off and get on the belt, bad idea.
87 Honda Spree,
XX Yamaha YSR50
92 Yamaha Jog -> Stock.
05 Kymco Super 9-> My cruiser
xx Honda Gyro -> Man I gotta fix that.
98 Honda Elite S -> corsa, pg long, 24mm oko, ct chrome, ZX trans w/ ruckus variator, trailtech vapor gauges
XX Yamaha YSR50
92 Yamaha Jog -> Stock.
05 Kymco Super 9-> My cruiser
xx Honda Gyro -> Man I gotta fix that.
98 Honda Elite S -> corsa, pg long, 24mm oko, ct chrome, ZX trans w/ ruckus variator, trailtech vapor gauges
Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
NO IMPACT WRENCH PERIOD!steffen707 wrote:You mean use the strap wrench on the teeth of the front pulley so that isolates the crank from getting shocked by the impact?eclypse wrote:
Just use that to grab the teeth and then put a wrench on the nut to tighten or loosen it.
I don't use the impact to put those nuts on, but I use them to take the nuts off, and i just want to understand what technique you guys are using to avoid this "pressed on crank" screwing up the counter weight thing.
Whatever ya got to hold the teeth from moving and use a regular socket wrench to get the nut off and on. I never through off the crank but just the threads.
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2001 Honda Elite SR All Black runing great!
2001 Honda Elite SR All Black runing great!
Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
When I use an impact wrench I make sure that I don't hold anything. The piston's compression offers enough resistance to let the impact driver do it's thing.
If I use an impact drive to tighten I make sure the threads are meshed and all splined parts are on the appropriate splines.
Good luck.
If I use an impact drive to tighten I make sure the threads are meshed and all splined parts are on the appropriate splines.
Good luck.
1989 Elite E with 86cc Dio
Rumia 50mm bore, mini-stroker, 28mm Oko, modified m-x pipe, Carbonfiber reinforced frame.
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Rumia 50mm bore, mini-stroker, 28mm Oko, modified m-x pipe, Carbonfiber reinforced frame.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKSvdjxvBUA
Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
Yep, that's how pressed together cranks get twisted. Thats why it is important to hold whatever item you are loosening the nut on, so all the stress is on the flywheel or whatever you are working on and not on the crank.elitedio wrote:When I use an impact wrench I make sure that I don't hold anything. The piston's compression offers enough resistance to let the impact driver do it's thing.
If I use an impact drive to tighten I make sure the threads are meshed and all splined parts are on the appropriate splines.
Good luck.
Bear 45/70
'83 Aero 80 X 3
'84 Aero 80 X 3
'85 Aero 80
'84 Aero 125 X 2
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'84 Aero 125 X 2
'85 Aero 50
'85 Spree
'83 Aero 80 X 3
'84 Aero 80 X 3
'85 Aero 80
'84 Aero 125 X 2
'84 Aero 125
'84 Aero 125 X 2
'85 Aero 50
'85 Spree
- KingJeff801
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Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
I am going to buy a torgue wrench what should it be set too when tightening the crank?
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Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
Check your service manual for all torque specs. Service manuals are available in the Tech Docs section.
- Wheelman-111
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Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
Greetings:
From Wheel-Memory : Clutch nut needs ~29 Ft.-Lbs.
Crank nut on the AF16 needs ~43, or 2.5 Wheel-Grunts.
Steffen, there is debate regarding the safety of rattle-gunning the crankshaft. The crankshaft is an assembly composed of 5 pieces: Alternator shaft, Variator shaft, a pair of flywheels and the big-end crank pin. Friction is the only thing holding them in the orientation Honda-san prescribed when he pressed them together with his giant hydraulic press: True, square and straight.
And while friction seems to be plenty to keep it that way in operation, it is said that Vibration is an excellent lubricant. So good that it can overcome the friction that keeps the crank aligned.
A rattle gun (Toc-toc-toc) can produce that vibration. Acting on the Vario end of the crankshaft (Toc-toc-toc), it wants to twist the Left flywheel (Toc-toc-toc). Should it succeed in loosening its grip on the crankpin (Toc-toc-toc), however microscopically, then the two flywheels are no longer precisely aligned. This in turn means the alternator shaft and the Vario shaft are no longer rotating on the same axis. Bad stuff for crank seals, bearings and the shaft assembly itself.
A holder - strap wrench, HF Chain Holder Tool, or Tusk Clutch holder - makes sure the torque you put on the nut is opposed by the tool, not the crankpin. All the force is confined to the 14mm (or 12mm in the case of the AF05 crank) variator shaft segment of the crank. Many have omitted the holder and whacked away with no apparent harm. I prefer not to do so. YMMV. Do what you wish. It's your engine, after all.
From Wheel-Memory : Clutch nut needs ~29 Ft.-Lbs.
Crank nut on the AF16 needs ~43, or 2.5 Wheel-Grunts.
Steffen, there is debate regarding the safety of rattle-gunning the crankshaft. The crankshaft is an assembly composed of 5 pieces: Alternator shaft, Variator shaft, a pair of flywheels and the big-end crank pin. Friction is the only thing holding them in the orientation Honda-san prescribed when he pressed them together with his giant hydraulic press: True, square and straight.
And while friction seems to be plenty to keep it that way in operation, it is said that Vibration is an excellent lubricant. So good that it can overcome the friction that keeps the crank aligned.
A rattle gun (Toc-toc-toc) can produce that vibration. Acting on the Vario end of the crankshaft (Toc-toc-toc), it wants to twist the Left flywheel (Toc-toc-toc). Should it succeed in loosening its grip on the crankpin (Toc-toc-toc), however microscopically, then the two flywheels are no longer precisely aligned. This in turn means the alternator shaft and the Vario shaft are no longer rotating on the same axis. Bad stuff for crank seals, bearings and the shaft assembly itself.
A holder - strap wrench, HF Chain Holder Tool, or Tusk Clutch holder - makes sure the torque you put on the nut is opposed by the tool, not the crankpin. All the force is confined to the 14mm (or 12mm in the case of the AF05 crank) variator shaft segment of the crank. Many have omitted the holder and whacked away with no apparent harm. I prefer not to do so. YMMV. Do what you wish. It's your engine, after all.
Wheelman-111
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Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
- steffen707
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Re: Cordless Impact on crank and clutch bolt
d*** good explanation and i guess i should consider myself lucky for not screwing my crank up. Next time i'm in Wausau, i'll get something from HF to avoid this problem.Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:
From Wheel-Memory : Clutch nut needs ~29 Ft.-Lbs.
Crank nut on the AF16 needs ~43, or 2.5 Wheel-Grunts.
Steffen, there is debate regarding the safety of rattle-gunning the crankshaft. The crankshaft is an assembly composed of 5 pieces: Alternator shaft, Variator shaft, a pair of flywheels and the big-end crank pin. Friction is the only thing holding them in the orientation Honda-san prescribed when he pressed them together with his giant hydraulic press: True, square and straight.
And while friction seems to be plenty to keep it that way in operation, it is said that Vibration is an excellent lubricant. So good that it can overcome the friction that keeps the crank aligned.
A rattle gun (Toc-toc-toc) can produce that vibration. Acting on the Vario end of the crankshaft (Toc-toc-toc), it wants to twist the Left flywheel (Toc-toc-toc). Should it succeed in loosening its grip on the crankpin (Toc-toc-toc), however microscopically, then the two flywheels are no longer precisely aligned. This in turn means the alternator shaft and the Vario shaft are no longer rotating on the same axis. Bad stuff for crank seals, bearings and the shaft assembly itself.
A holder - strap wrench, HF Chain Holder Tool, or Tusk Clutch holder - makes sure the torque you put on the nut is opposed by the tool, not the crankpin. All the force is confined to the 14mm (or 12mm in the case of the AF05 crank) variator shaft segment of the crank. Many have omitted the holder and whacked away with no apparent harm. I prefer not to do so. YMMV. Do what you wish. It's your engine, after all.
87 Honda Spree,
XX Yamaha YSR50
92 Yamaha Jog -> Stock.
05 Kymco Super 9-> My cruiser
xx Honda Gyro -> Man I gotta fix that.
98 Honda Elite S -> corsa, pg long, 24mm oko, ct chrome, ZX trans w/ ruckus variator, trailtech vapor gauges
XX Yamaha YSR50
92 Yamaha Jog -> Stock.
05 Kymco Super 9-> My cruiser
xx Honda Gyro -> Man I gotta fix that.
98 Honda Elite S -> corsa, pg long, 24mm oko, ct chrome, ZX trans w/ ruckus variator, trailtech vapor gauges