CHT Temps, what are yours?

[Petrock's 1984 Spree]

its a green wire. try and use b8hs plugs. zero resistance vs any of the plugs with R in it 5.4 ohms.if its fouling down low. drop the pilot jet 1 step.

Okay ill look for it it. Is it connected to the engine block or is it a frame ground?

So dont get the bpR8hsa plug? Get the the b8hs. I found a b8hs, but it is labled as a b8hs-10. Is this the plug i want?

Found the right plug to be a ngk b8hs (sku 5510)

[Petrock's 1984 Spree]

Alright well i did another plug chop because the same "rough riding" symptoms appeared again.

The electrode and the arm above it are both pitch black. So im guessing i jetted too rich. Im at a 45, 120.
The a/f screw is approx. 2 turns out. So do i try to adjust the a/f screw or do i lower the jetting to a 42, 115?

[Bear45-70]

If you are doing a proper plug chop the idle mixture screw is irrelevant. Beside it should always be adjust for the highest RPM possible or you can get stumbling or bogging off the line.

[bradthreee]

Bear can you explain what you mean by highest possible RPM?

[Bear45-70]

You adjust the screw until the engine runs at the highest possible RPM it the engine revs real high back off on the idle speed screw and adjust the mixture screw again for the highest possible RPM, then you adjust the idle speed screw to get the desired idle RPM (1800 +100/-100 or the rear wheel does not rotate). This insures the idle mixture is correct for proper operation for transition from idle to part throttle operation. This is what the manual tells you to do.

[bradthreee]

You adjust the screw until the engine runs at the highest possible RPM it the engine revs real high back off on the idle speed screw and adjust the mixture screw again for the highest possible RPM, then you adjust the idle speed screw to get the desired idle RPM (1800 +100/-100 or the rear wheel does not rotate). This insures the idle mixture is correct for proper operation for transition from idle to part throttle operation. This is what the manual tells you to do.

I've read that numerous times, but I guess the only way I really understand things are in this format:

1. What are both of the screws baselines?

2. Adjust the (idle or pilot?) screw until the engine reaches the highest possible RPM.

3. Back off the idle screw (meaning seat it?, please be more specific)

4. Adjust the idle speed screw (you mean just the idle screw?) to 1800 +100/-100 RPMs

5. Any other steps?

[Bear45-70]

The only number of turns given is a base line number for the mixture screw.

The idle speed is given only as 1800 +100/-100.

When you start the engine for the first time and it will not stay running or revs to high, turn the idle speed screw in or out until it stays running or slows down to something resembling an idle. Then adjust the mixture screw for the highest RPM you can get. Sometimes you have to let the idle settle out or rev the engine and let it settle down again to get it right. Then back to the speed screw for the 1800 +100/-100 or the rear wheel does not rotate. The same applies to the idle speed, sometimes you have to let the idle settle out or rev the engine and let it settle down again to get it right.

[bakaracer]

its a green wire. try and use b8hs plugs. zero resistance vs any of the plugs with R in it 5.4 ohms.if its fouling down low. drop the pilot jet 1 step.

Okay ill look for it it. Is it connected to the engine block or is it a frame ground?

So dont get the bpR8hsa plug? Get the the b8hs. I found a b8hs, but it is labled as a b8hs-10. Is this the plug i want?

Found the right plug to be a ngk b8hs (sku 5510)

that green wire comes from the stator and bolts to where the starter is bolted to. get the plug that only say b8hs on the box. the less resistance, the less the coil has to work. gap it .024 since your running a bore that has a high compression ratio. the closer gap makes the spark jump easier. if the gap is to large, the spark jump has to fight the compression to jump.

[bakaracer]

Alright well i did another plug chop because the same "rough riding" symptoms appeared again.

The electrode and the arm above it are both pitch black. So im guessing i jetted too rich. Im at a 45, 120.
The a/f screw is approx. 2 turns out. So do i try to adjust the a/f screw or do i lower the jetting to a 42, 115?

don't make jet changes that big. one jet at a time. so your doing wot plug chops while your breaking in the motor? your asking for trouble there.

[Petrock's 1984 Spree]

Alright I'll look for that ground tomoro but I believe it's the jetting.

Sorry, I am not doing true plug chops. Just riding it into my garage, killing it, and pulling the plug. The plug is black. I don't know how you tell the difference from a rich plug vs a fouled plug. The idle just seems to bog. I'll try what Bear said to do in the morning. If that doesn't help I'll drop the idle jet down to a 42 and see if that helps. The problem is after it revs up on the center stand, and settles, bogs, and dies.

[Bear45-70]

That is telling you your idle is too rich. Nothing about what is really happening when the engine is running. Adjust you idle mixture properly first.

[bakaracer]

how many turns out do you have the air/fuel mixture screw at right now? what position is the needle clip at on the needle?

[Petrock's 1984 Spree]

Okay now it wont stay running for more than about 10 seconds.
It will hardly start unless the a/f screw is in all the way
And i do see premix exiting the exhuast, got a small puddle of it on the ground right beneath the end of the exhaust pipe.
I do have one of those new b8hs plugs in there.

So im guessing the new plug is screwing something up or the jetting is way rich. Or both. I have yet to gap the plug, im heading out now to go grab one of those gapping tools (not the coin)

[Bear45-70]

It is too rich, your float is either too high or the needle is not stopping the fuel when the bowl is full, probably the latter.

[Petrock's 1984 Spree]

Yeah, i'll be dropping the idle jet down from a 45 to a 42 to see if that helps tomoro