CHT Temps, what are yours?

[evilone]

don't make jet changes that big. one jet at a time.

Is the 42 the next smaller jet you have?

[Bear45-70]

Yeah, i'll be dropping the idle jet down from a 45 to a 42 to see if that helps tomoro

You can drop the jets down all you want, Changing jets can not cure a float level issue. Until you fix the extra fuel issue you are wasting your time.

[Petrock's 1984 Spree]

42 is the next smallest jet i have.

Bear, I thought you said it was too rich. So wouldnt dropping a jet size help? And if it is a float level issue im not even sure how to go about fixing that. Im surprised it would be a float level thing, the carb is practically brand new.

[Bear45-70]

42 is the next smallest jet i have.

Bear, I thought you said it was too rich. So wouldnt dropping a jet size help? And if it is a float level issue im not even sure how to go about fixing that. Im surprised it would be a float level thing, the carb is practically brand new.

Too rich can be caused by other than jetting. Float level to high or more like the needle not closing properly and dumping fuel into the intake tract.

[Petrock's 1984 Spree]

So if the float level is too high how do i adjust that? Or better yet, how do i even diagnose that?

[Bear45-70]

So if the float level is too high how do i adjust that? Or better yet, how do i even diagnose that?

To check the float you remove the carb. Remove the float bowl and invert the carb. The float should be level with the bowl flange and if it is the stock carb the manual has a height spec. For an OKO you will have to find a manual for that. Some are actually adjustable and others you replace the float.

[Petrock's 1984 Spree]

Alright well after a break from the frustrating thing i dove into today to find the problem.
After pulling the carb out, cleaning it, and putting it back in the moped ran for circa 3 seconds. However, once the gas filled the float chamber it died and i couldnt get it started again.

So i tore it down again, put a 42, 118 (45,120 originally) in, and tried again. It ran better, but this time only for about 5 seconds before the gas filled the float bowl and it died. So i assume this is a float issue and will be ordering another float shortly.

I cant believe this one crapped out on me already. Its only about 20 miles in

[Trafficjamz]

Alright well after a break from the frustrating thing i dove into today to find the problem.
After pulling the carb out, cleaning it, and putting it back in the moped ran for circa 3 seconds. However, once the gas filled the float chamber it died and i couldnt get it started again.

So i tore it down again, put a 42, 118 (45,120 originally) in, and tried again. It ran better, but this time only for about 5 seconds before the gas filled the float bowl and it died. So i assume this is a float issue and will be ordering another float shortly.

I cant believe this one crapped out on me already. Its only about 20 miles in

You can adjust it by bending the little tab that is connected to the needle.

Bend it till the float is parallel to the carb.

[Petrock's 1984 Spree]

That sounds like an easy fix, i'll be trying that tomoro morning

Thanks

[bakaracer]

you have to becareful not to press down on the float when installing the bowl back on. that is a common mistake alot of people do when changing jets on those carbs. pressing down on the float will bend that tab and raise the float level. with a high float level,all the circuits will run rich.

[S4Patrick]

OK, lots of great info within these posts...

Got a Daytona Temp Gauge with KOSO spark plug temp sender sensor. (red flange that mounts underneath the spark plug).

My current setup is the following:

1987 Aero 50 with an AF16 engine installed.

Polini Corsa BBK
PG Long-SEF Majik Replica pipe---a hybrid of the two.
CT Black manifold
OKO 24mm carb
-Pilot jet: 55 ; Main jet: 135
-Uni air filter
-Jet needle is in/ on the middle groove.
BPR8HS plug

When I had the jet-needle at one groove BELOW the middle groove, I experienced quite a bit of gurgling/ hesitance at part/ light throttle. Putting the clip on the MIDDLE groove certainly cleaned just about all of it up. Throttle response is far smoother.

When riding, I'm seeing cruising temps at #330-365f temps (no WOT, as I'm only 75 miles into the engine break-in process--which is typically 1/4 - 3/8 throttle. I vary the engine rpm and speed frequently and not allowing myself to surpass 35mph)

When I let off and slow down/ or stop (allowing engine to idle) I've seen the temp rise to 380-390f. (outdoor temps are 75-80 degrees with 60-75% humidity) I know this is too high. Can you make any suggestions on what to do/ adjustments I can make to lower the engine/ cylinder temp?



Thanks~!

~Patrick

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

You seem to be experiencing higher temps at part-throttle than you should. That suggests Pilot jet is too small. I have the same setup except a 26 carb. My pilot is a 125 at the moment and I run a LOT cooler than you show. Like 100 degrees cooler! 250-300 at part throttle and never more than 350 even coasting down from a minute-long WOT run. Yes it could be a measuring error, but assuming the temps are accurate, I'd be concerned that you're leaking vacuum somewhere. You are wise to exercise throttle discretion.

Oh, and your plug should be a BR8 or B8, no "P". That's for Aero heads and was a problem on one of my ministrokers until I was set straight. Uhh, whut's a Majic Replica. Is it the same as my black PG Long?

[808BMW]

A pg long is a different pipe then a sef majik, which one are you running?

[S4Patrick]

Hey Wheelman....

Thank you for your suggestions/ thoughts....

2 questions for you:

--On your 26mm carb, what are you jet #'s currently at? (Pilot & Main)
(My OKO 24mm is currently at: 55pilot ; 135main)

--Are the exhaust gaskets a one-time-use part? I ask this because with the stock cylinder/ exhaust you could "get away" with reusing the exhaust gasket a couple of times. Just last week, I was experiencing CH temps around 275-315f. This was prior to taking the exhaust pipe off to swap out the rear brake pads for a new set. I'm thinking this may be my culprit, as I only had 20 miles on that exhaust gasket and I decided to be a cheap-* and not change it out. I may be sucking in some "un-metered" air. Perhaps on the Corsa BBKs it's best to employ the "one-time-use" rule?

3rd "bonus" question: What front/ rear brake pads are you using on your set-up?

-----

PG-SEF Replica pipe.

This is a "cross-breed" of the PG Long pipe & the SEF Majik pipe. The J-pipe all the way to the "muffler-chamber" is sectional--resembling the scorpion pipe. It's pretty darn loud, but certainly allows the engine to wind up. I sourced this pipe from Hawaii during the winter months.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

AudiPat axt:

--On your 26mm carb, what are you jet #'s currently at? (Pilot & Main)
(My OKO 24mm is currently at: 55pilot ; 135main)

Currently (I think) I'm using a 48/125.

--Are the exhaust gaskets a one-time-use part? I ask this because with the stock cylinder/ exhaust you could "get away" with reusing the exhaust gasket a couple of times. Just last week, I was experiencing CH temps around 275-315f. This was prior to taking the exhaust pipe off to swap out the rear brake pads for a new set. I'm thinking this may be my culprit, as I only had 20 miles on that exhaust gasket and I decided to be a cheap-* and not change it out. I may be sucking in some "un-metered" air. Perhaps on the Corsa BBKs it's best to employ the "one-time-use" rule?

Yes, you may be onto something here. I got a set of VW gaskets a while back. 4 of everything makes a feller feel Rich, so I didn't dare re-use a gasket. Removal of the shroud should tell the tale of tarry drippage. If so, that might be the reason for the uptick in CHT readings.

3rd "bonus" question: What front/ rear brake pads are you using on your set

I've still got the original Honda-san pads at 2800 miles on the frame. I Brake for Nobody. When/if replacement is needed, Cheap-* Wheelman plans to see if These fit.