big screw up

Dac · Post by **Dac** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:18 pm

and the 'dee dee dee' retard award goes too....

me. for running to lean and burning up a 2 month old 63cc bore kit. God im a r-tard. my moped has gotten harder and harder to start. plus its going slower and slower. with a top speed of 32mph and almost no take off i desided to take off my cylinder just incase. under the exhausts port its scored to *, along with 1/4 the piston. really deep , really bad. the rings were baked on there and one of them so thin it almost broke trying to get it off

now im back to getting a new bore kit since my stock cylinder and piston is also burned up. go right ahead and laugh

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:24 pm

LOL WHAT A RETARD!!!!! EVERYBODY POINT AND LAUGH AT HIM!!!
My little sister can probably care for a 2 stoke better than you!

Dac · Post by **Dac** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:44 pm

at this point i feel like my 7year old sister can.
do you know if vtcycles has 70-ish cc bore kits for 92 elites? there not open on sundays. or any were on the internet...
i should have (and will on my next bore) done more plug chops but in order to get plugs i have to drive 1/2 hour in a car and there like 5$ at this place. i hate living out in the middle of no were

edjo · Post by **edjo** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:47 pm

Just get a new piston and rings, I doubt you messed up the cylinder.

Dac · Post by **Dac** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:48 pm

no, i fried the cylinder also, its got ton of little scoring and 1/4th of it is really bad

jeremydde · Post by **jeremydde** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:16 am

Well, It's unfortunate that your cylinder got scored up. Live and learn. What jet were you running in that thing? Did you have a pod filter as well? I was nervous about installing my bore kit until after I installed the CHT gauge. Then I researched what others were getting for readings and gauged my tuning on that as well as plug chops. You may want to pick up a gauge as well. Even after I was safely tuned I would wait in the morning until the gauge read 50 degrees celcius before I would leave and start to open it up.

Dac · Post by **Dac** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:16 am

i had a #88 jet, as well as a UNI pod air filter.

Even after I was safely tuned I would wait in the morning until the gauge read 50 degrees celcius before I would leave and start to open it up.

not doing this bad for the motor? i never let it warm up, i just got on it and went

Dac · Post by **Dac** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 8:11 pm

well got my parts ordered, 125$ for 63 bore kit, bigger jet, 1000rpm compression spring , shipping
i wanted to up size some but 63cc was all they had

jeremydde · Post by **jeremydde** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:22 pm

Dac wrote:i had a #88 jet, as well as a UNI pod air filter.
Even after I was safely tuned I would wait in the morning until the gauge read 50 degrees celcius before I would leave and start to open it up.
not doing this bad for the motor? i never let it warm up, i just got on it and went

Yes, it's bad to rip hard on any motor that is cold. In the case of an iron bore and aluminum piston, then piston will expand faster than the iron and you can cold sieze it in the bore even if you are jetted correctly.

HuskieMobileMan · Post by **HuskieMobileMan** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 3:10 pm

Dude, make sure your oiler is working properly too. Wire that thing wide open and make sure you bleed the supply line from the tank and the injection line from the pump to the manifold.

Dac · Post by **Dac** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:56 pm

{Hey i need any one who knows how to wire tie the oiler open to go here. thanks}

ok so i got my parts in and got them all on. it runs. its about 40-50* F here so riding is rather hard. do to the freezing factor. i think im going to break this thing in over winter.

seeing how over heating is a big thing with breaking in it makes since to do it when its cool. plus it being so cool i wont ride it long. And if the roads are slippery ill go slow any way.
Any reasons i shouldn't do this? or any tips how not to screw it up.

Dac · Post by **Dac** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:19 pm

Dac wrote: seeing how over heating is a big thing with breaking in it makes since to do it when its cool. plus it being so cool i wont ride it long. And if the roads are slippery ill go slow any way.
Any reasons i shouldn't do this? or any tips how not to screw it up.

this would help to know....

jeremydde · Post by **jeremydde** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:35 pm

Well, if you don't push the motor very hard then it won't heat up much. With power comes heat. If you aren't using the power then you aren't creating the heat. However, keep in mind that since it is colder outside, the air is denser which actually makes you run leaner.

Dac · Post by **Dac** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:45 pm

this thing is rich as * right now. i got about 50 miles down. i cant help but thinking about cold seize. when i get it out during the winter should i let it warn up or just go because heats the enemy?
im confused at this point

jeremydde · Post by **jeremydde** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:08 pm

Dac wrote:this thing is rich as * right now. i got about 50 miles down. i cant help but thinking about cold seize. when i get it out during the winter should i let it warn up or just go because heats the enemy?
im confused at this point

Always let the motor warm up before you go. You don't have a tach I assume. Even without going hard the revs jump pretty high. This is the nature of the CVT transmission. It's always better to let the engine warm up close to operating temperature before opening the throttle up. This holds true for any piston engine be it 2 or 4 stroke. Automotive manufacturers actually limit an engines redline and power output if the coolant temperature sensor reads below a certain temperature. This is to limit the power of the engine to prevent the cylinder temps from rising too fast. They also run the engines significantly richer to during warm up as well.