it all makes sense wha tyou said here.. i have seen it myself on the scooters with fatiged springs and smoked clutches pads. the belt on my 97 was real bad too. its smells like like a electri motor that burnt up.. pretty bad. i have a torque driver that has worn ramps too so i need to find one. may stay with honda but i may also look for one with the ramps init that are straight like a molossi. i like the performance of that style a little better at least its a plus on my kymco. was wondering what you were up to as we haven't heard from you.. thought maybe ya burnt the cylinder up on the new build anyway looks like you have funitzmepete wrote:Happy, I wouldn't get too excited about a larger rear pulley. While there is space for it, you will probably need a slightly longer belt. A larger rear pulley will just give you better take off, but by adding a slightly larger belt, might help ride up higher on the front pulley.
Anyway, an update, I did all my mods and noticed that take off speed from a stand still with the Polini and 8:44 to 1 gears was not as good as when it was stock or with the stock gears and big bore kit. I had ordered a new , well a used (345 miles) rear clutch as mine was about worn, I'd guess 80% worn. Thought about up'ing the clutch center spring and the 3 shoe springs. Well, clutch came in and I popped it in stock. Take off from stand still is now great. I credit it to several things.
1) While the clutch is stock, it is new and the springs are fresh.
2) Shoes are new and makes a perfect contact. My old shoes had maybe a 60% contact. See dark area on pads, the white area is a groove cut and did not make contact.
With the new lower gears, its obviously harder for the clutch to turn soooo, a clutch in good shape is a must. My old clutch had uneven wear as if something let loose inside and wore out a center section of all 3 shoes.
In any event, Take off now with the 8:44 to 1 and the Polini is as good maybe better initially , first few feet, and then much better than stock, hold on! Here is a few nice pics of bad clutch good clutch.
I am half way thru my 1 gal fuel run and then gonna check the oil tank to see how much oil it is injecting so stay tuned.
Good Clutch $49 ebay like new
Preformance Speed Variator is BS on Elite SR50
Moderator: Moderator
Burnt up my Polini? lol, Nah, I am adding extra oil in the fuel tank. I don't run it wide open, at least not much. 1/2 to just over that and my speedo is in the fuel tank area. I don't think the stories of seized cylinders are false now or just attributed to cheaper cylinder assemblies although I still do believe that is one factor. I do think they are true many can be avoided. I personally think the possibility of a seized or heat freeze cylinder is possible and the chances increases if
1) You add a larger Carb
2) You add a Hi Preformance Muffler
3) Wrong gearing such as stock which revs the engine alot
4) Cheaper big bore kits as in cheaper alloy pistons
5) Constant wide open throttle (My Favorite)
I think if you had a Hi Po big bore, carb and exhaust and no gears you are setting yourself up for damage. With the right gears you have to be very careful still. My setup, careful yes but just a little if you have some common sense.
I have a stock carb and stock Muffler. Plus with the lower gears the engine dosen't rev as high and whhen it does the bike is moving (air flow)
I will be more careful when I add my pipe. I really can't see anyone wanting this thing to go faster. Gonna add a pipe cuz mine is on its way out but a larger carb? Nah, its way fast as it is now. After I see how much oil the auto oil injection is doing , I may cut all or some of the adding oil in the fuel. If I do I will be very carefull then and make sure I have 300 to 500 miles of trouble free use on my bike.
My .25 cents for what its worth, as you may know one guy says my .25 cents ain't worth much! haha, I still have a sence of humor! But my bike still runs like a raped ape! Pete
1) You add a larger Carb
2) You add a Hi Preformance Muffler
3) Wrong gearing such as stock which revs the engine alot
4) Cheaper big bore kits as in cheaper alloy pistons
5) Constant wide open throttle (My Favorite)
I think if you had a Hi Po big bore, carb and exhaust and no gears you are setting yourself up for damage. With the right gears you have to be very careful still. My setup, careful yes but just a little if you have some common sense.
I have a stock carb and stock Muffler. Plus with the lower gears the engine dosen't rev as high and whhen it does the bike is moving (air flow)
I will be more careful when I add my pipe. I really can't see anyone wanting this thing to go faster. Gonna add a pipe cuz mine is on its way out but a larger carb? Nah, its way fast as it is now. After I see how much oil the auto oil injection is doing , I may cut all or some of the adding oil in the fuel. If I do I will be very carefull then and make sure I have 300 to 500 miles of trouble free use on my bike.
My .25 cents for what its worth, as you may know one guy says my .25 cents ain't worth much! haha, I still have a sence of humor! But my bike still runs like a raped ape! Pete
you seem to have it doing what its supposed to do.if you jet properly you don't need to add oil to the gas as a matter of fact it leans the mixture out in reality.. i am not going to use the mix on mine .. will jet it to maybe a 97 and run it.i wojuld rather just wire the oiler open and go from there. look at the plug a few times and have fun.. the big carb won't blow that motor or burn it up. running the thing wide open will, if held for a bit too long,or the gearing is short and the jetting is not correct,. it all goes back to jetting and how you run them i feel. if you want tioo run it wide open and jet for it the thing will be a problem to deal with on the plugs not lasting i feel. one thing your enjoying the thing and that is the only thing that matters and that is my 2c as i don't 25 haha anyway have a ballitzmepete wrote:Burnt up my Polini? lol, Nah, I am adding extra oil in the fuel tank. I don't run it wide open, at least not much. 1/2 to just over that and my speedo is in the fuel tank area. I don't think the stories of seized cylinders are false now or just attributed to cheaper cylinder assemblies although I still do believe that is one factor. I do think they are true many can be avoided. I personally think the possibility of a seized or heat freeze cylinder is possible and the chances increases if
1) You add a larger Carb
2) You add a Hi Preformance Muffler
3) Wrong gearing such as stock which revs the engine alot
4) Cheaper big bore kits as in cheaper alloy pistons
5) Constant wide open throttle (My Favorite)
I think if you had a Hi Po big bore, carb and exhaust and no gears you are setting yourself up for damage. With the right gears you have to be very careful still. My setup, careful yes but just a little if you have some common sense.
I have a stock carb and stock Muffler. Plus with the lower gears the engine dosen't rev as high and when it does the bike is moving (air flow)
I will be more careful when I add my pipe. I really can't see anyone wanting this thing to go faster. Gonna add a pipe cuz mine is on its way out but a larger carb? Nah, its way fast as it is now. After I see how much oil the auto oil injection is doing , I may cut all or some of the adding oil in the fuel. If I do I will be very carefull then and make sure I have 300 to 500 miles of trouble free use on my bike.
My .25 cents for what its worth, as you may know one guy says my .25 cents ain't worth much! haha, I still have a sence of humor! But my bike still runs like a raped ape! Pete
Yeah, you know the jet supplied with the Polini Corsa was smaller than a #100 jet. I have looked at my plug, its nice and brown I need another 30 miles before I should be done with my 1 gallon of gas. Then I will see how much oil it used. I filled it right up to the rubber ring around the oil tank neck as I could see the mark easily. I am gonna order a new muffler tomorrow. I haven't decided yet what to order I have 4 options. A PG from VT, the $99 dollar one that I posted a pic here, a R1 in black and one I saw in the Hawaii formums for like $100 but its slightly used. I am leaning toward the PG but it would be the PG short as the long is for strokers and I am not sure I will like the short. Burnt Toast has the long I believe. The $99 doesn't look all that great made, looks thing to me for some reason. I dunno, gonna have a few beers and think!!!
Yeah Alaskaairhog ran his at like 75 mph, same setup as mine, I THINK , but pipe and carb plus air filter although mine is really unrestricted. Anyway, his head temp got to 300 F which is VERY high, but was for a short time when he ran it wide open on the highway. Gonna shoot him a YouTube message, ask about his PG pipe!
Yeah Alaskaairhog ran his at like 75 mph, same setup as mine, I THINK , but pipe and carb plus air filter although mine is really unrestricted. Anyway, his head temp got to 300 F which is VERY high, but was for a short time when he ran it wide open on the highway. Gonna shoot him a YouTube message, ask about his PG pipe!
your saying 300 F is runnning too hot? i thought that was pretty cool for a forced air setup running at high rpms and that should live there easy. but then i am not an expert. now if it got to 400 i would be a littel concerned at least enough to slow it downa tad to cool things off..itzmepete wrote:Yeah, you know the jet supplied with the Polini Corsa was smaller than a #100 jet. I have looked at my plug, its nice and brown I need another 30 miles before I should be done with my 1 gallon of gas. Then I will see how much oil it used. I filled it right up to the rubber ring around the oil tank neck as I could see the mark easily. I am gonna order a new muffler tomorrow. I haven't decided yet what to order I have 4 options. A PG from VT, the $99 dollar one that I posted a pic here, a R1 in black and one I saw in the Hawaii formums for like $100 but its slightly used. I am leaning toward the PG but it would be the PG short as the long is for strokers and I am not sure I will like the short. Burnt Toast has the long I believe. The $99 doesn't look all that great made, looks thing to me for some reason. I dunno, gonna have a few beers and think!!!
Yeah Alaskaairhog ran his at like 75 mph, same setup as mine, I THINK , but pipe and carb plus air filter although mine is really unrestricted. Anyway, his head temp got to 300 F which is VERY high, but was for a short time when he ran it wide open on the highway. Gonna shoot him a YouTube message, ask about his PG pipe!
You know, I really am not sure what is considered hot on these engines. They are air cooled so your probably right in that it will run hotter. The air cooled puddle jumpers run up past that and the turbo's glow so yeah. I don't have a clue what "Normal" is but I WILL find out!
As for the oil consumption, here it is. After a gallon of gas, it ate 2.8 oz of oil. So thats just above 40 to 1 probably like 45 to 1. Unfortunately, I did not check what the stock set up ate in oil so I will have to check with the Local honda dealer and see what they say a good oil to fuel ratio should be. Pocket chineese bikes are 25 to 1. Honda I dunno, not yet at least. Anyone that KNOWS for sure, like can point it out in a manual, add a post. I think I can turn the oiler cable a turn or two more but its pretty much maxed out with another turn. Gas is ok, 77 mpg but I am dogging it a bit, might improve once it all loosens up but considering the preformance, I can't complain.
As for the oil consumption, here it is. After a gallon of gas, it ate 2.8 oz of oil. So thats just above 40 to 1 probably like 45 to 1. Unfortunately, I did not check what the stock set up ate in oil so I will have to check with the Local honda dealer and see what they say a good oil to fuel ratio should be. Pocket chineese bikes are 25 to 1. Honda I dunno, not yet at least. Anyone that KNOWS for sure, like can point it out in a manual, add a post. I think I can turn the oiler cable a turn or two more but its pretty much maxed out with another turn. Gas is ok, 77 mpg but I am dogging it a bit, might improve once it all loosens up but considering the preformance, I can't complain.
You Sure? I have done some reading, some say 20 to 1 when in doubt, I think its too high, 32 to 1 always works, but can foul plugs and if so they say to rejet carb but 32 to 1 is safest.
Now I am also reading a website that says Honda told them 40 to 1 . I figure whatever the stock injector pumps for 50 cc will be fine for a 72cc after all the jet size has been increased . This website says Honda recommends 40 to 1 properly jetted is right as it doesn't foul the plug. My plug looks good, its the NGK for hotter engines NGKBR8HSA which is a colder plug for extended running. If it fouls I can always go back to the med plug NGKBR6HSA which will run hotter and burn off the plug better.
Yes Kenny, I have been doing a Plug Chop !!
May wait as when I replace the muffler everything will change I am sure. The back pressure in this stock muffler is probably holding back my little engine some what by not letting it breath. I guess with what oil its eating now, its just shy of 40 to 1 so I am gonna crank those 2 extra turns on the injector cable, still gonna add 1 ounce to the tank for the next 4 or 5 tanks as I have been doing. I've already gone thru 5 tanks with no problems, although when it gets hot its slightly less responsive than when cold or just warmed up. Gonna check the float bowl as I had crud in it a month and a half ago and once I cleaned it out went back to normal. Could be collecting in there again. Probably the fuel tank, if I have to I'll pull it and clean it good.
This will continue!
Now I am also reading a website that says Honda told them 40 to 1 . I figure whatever the stock injector pumps for 50 cc will be fine for a 72cc after all the jet size has been increased . This website says Honda recommends 40 to 1 properly jetted is right as it doesn't foul the plug. My plug looks good, its the NGK for hotter engines NGKBR8HSA which is a colder plug for extended running. If it fouls I can always go back to the med plug NGKBR6HSA which will run hotter and burn off the plug better.
Yes Kenny, I have been doing a Plug Chop !!
May wait as when I replace the muffler everything will change I am sure. The back pressure in this stock muffler is probably holding back my little engine some what by not letting it breath. I guess with what oil its eating now, its just shy of 40 to 1 so I am gonna crank those 2 extra turns on the injector cable, still gonna add 1 ounce to the tank for the next 4 or 5 tanks as I have been doing. I've already gone thru 5 tanks with no problems, although when it gets hot its slightly less responsive than when cold or just warmed up. Gonna check the float bowl as I had crud in it a month and a half ago and once I cleaned it out went back to normal. Could be collecting in there again. Probably the fuel tank, if I have to I'll pull it and clean it good.
This will continue!
-
burnt_toast
- Veteran OG
- Posts: 3592
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 8:00 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
300F is normal run temp, 350F cruise, high is considered close to 400F
Dio engines run much different than jog style, even my stroker Zip90 runs under 300F CHT most of the time, 70cc cast and alum's run much cooler normal temp for T6 70cc is 170-180F run temp
32:1 good for breakin, 40:1 is more standard that is what I'm switching to coming up. Have run my Zip with 40:1 premix for past 2yrs now, cast 52mm bore.
Dio engines run much different than jog style, even my stroker Zip90 runs under 300F CHT most of the time, 70cc cast and alum's run much cooler normal temp for T6 70cc is 170-180F run temp
32:1 good for breakin, 40:1 is more standard that is what I'm switching to coming up. Have run my Zip with 40:1 premix for past 2yrs now, cast 52mm bore.
projects galore 
Toast,
You have the PG long correct? They only come in clear correct? I wanna order a pipe now but can't decide, I emailed VT see what they say but they sometimes take forever to respond. I am no fan of unpaintedpipes cuz they look crappy when the clear coat burns off. I guess a can of good high temp BBQ paint would work also.
You have the PG long correct? They only come in clear correct? I wanna order a pipe now but can't decide, I emailed VT see what they say but they sometimes take forever to respond. I am no fan of unpaintedpipes cuz they look crappy when the clear coat burns off. I guess a can of good high temp BBQ paint would work also.
-
burnt_toast
- Veteran OG
- Posts: 3592
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 8:00 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Thats the plan, paint it flatblack once clearcoat wears off, but I also like the raw look in meantime. PG Long only comes in raw from VT, you may find one prepainted from hawaii forum member but cant gaurantee that stuff.itzmepete wrote:Toast,
You have the PG long correct? They only come in clear correct? I wanna order a pipe now but can't decide, I emailed VT see what they say but they sometimes take forever to respond. I am no fan of unpaintedpipes cuz they look crappy when the clear coat burns off. I guess a can of good high temp BBQ paint would work also.
You should get the pipe you mentioned earlier, small chamber type pipe would be good for you for high revs and less other mods.
projects galore
1- sweet thanks for the info. I MIGHT be getting me a Polini bore kit (Not a corsa like i want.But the other one that last longer). If i do get it i would like to get a temp gauge so i dont trash it right off the bat.burnt_toast wrote:300F is normal run temp, 350F cruise, high is considered close to 400F
Dio engines run much different than jog style, even my stroker Zip90 runs under 300F CHT most of the time, 70cc cast and alum's run much cooler normal temp for T6 70cc is 170-180F run temp
32:1 good for breakin, 40:1 is more standard that is what I'm switching to coming up. Have run my Zip with 40:1 premix for past 2yrs now, cast 52mm bore.
2- 40:1 is 3.2 ounces to gallon. and 32:1 is 4 ounces a gallon.
So, if someone is running a stock oiler. and they want to have about 32:1 for break in they should add .8 ounces of oil to there gas. Right?
"Its not what you ride, its that you ride"
1996--------Honda Elite S-
1991--------Tomos Targa-
And a Bunch of other bikes.
1996--------Honda Elite S-
1991--------Tomos Targa-
And a Bunch of other bikes.
Dac, TRUST me on this one. Wait, save ur money, do whatever u have to do. For $50, extra get the Corsa. Its the FOUNDATION for your bike. Also, I did see a used Corsa for sale in the Hawaii Forum for $60 had low miles and 1 heat seize. I would NOT blink to jump on it, run a hone lightly thru it, bead blast the piston no wire brush, re-ring and I GUARANTEE you that you will be good as new or better cuz it would have already gone thru heat cycles and would not be all that tight as new. You would probably be better off, TRUST me on that one. Unless the piston is trashed and I don't believe 1 heat size will do that. A pic will say for sure. Any machine shop will run the piston thru a blaster for you for free, god , takes but 5 minutes and leaves it new. If there are any ridges after that, a light rub with 600 wet/dry under water leaves it new. TRUST ME!!!
If you want 32 to 1 and have a good oil injection now, cable adjusted all the way, add 1.1 ounce. My oiler injexted about 2.9 ounces of oil per gallon with cable almost all the way, I might have about a turn left. 2.9 ounces meaning a tenth more an ounce is 3.0 ounces.
Now I just did some plug tests, runs and what not and have some very interesting results and info. Bu gotta take a shower, relax a bit and grab a beer. My info revolves around spark plug, extra oil in gas and what not so stay tuned later tonight. I will have plug pics as well. In short, I would add just an ounce of oil to a full tank of gas, no more, for the first 3 or 4 tanks, go with the regular med plug which was the NGKBR6HSA. After several more tanks, I would stay with the injector or just add 1/2 ounce per tank but the injector will do ike 43 to 1 which should be fine. I may clean out my lines etc just to have it all perfect but it seems to be right on the money.
I have been adding about an ounce, and last night thought I wasn't adding enough so I added about an ounce and a half. Well today it was obvious it was too much. Top end was a bit slower, smoked a little bit. I ran it a bit then topped off the tank with just gas, about a quart, it ran a bit better. I pulled the Colder Chamnpion plug , L78C same as the NGK BR8HSA, that came with the Polini to look at it. I installed this plug new, been thru maybe 4 or 5 tank fulls during break in. Champion L78C which was a replacement for the NGK BR8HSA, a plug that is for hotter engines, extended running, less ceramic to insulate the electrode so heat dissapates faster to the head, so the plug runs colder. Anyway, while it had some brown, it also had some carbon. Two things, the plug isn't getting hot enough to burn off all the deposits as in excess oil I am adding, carb too rich, plug too cold so, I reinstalled the Champion replacement for the regular NGK BR6HSA which is a RL87YC. Same as the NGK BR6HSA but the gap is .032 so you have to really bring it down to .028 but its a replacement and available at Napa. Anyway same heat range a hotter plug. I also cut back on the oil.
So my .25 cents, new cylinder add an ounce for the first few tanks,a tank being just over a gallon. Run the regular plug as it will foul with the extra oil and not running it long hard for the extended NGK BR8HSA (or Champion L78C) plug to get hot enough to burn it all off. Once its well broken in and you cut back on the oil, go to the cooler plug.
I rambled on, will post pics later.
Oh, My scoot shoots like a rocket from 5 mph thru the begining of the F in fuel. Then slows a bit but keeps going! The needle when it hits the L in fuel I was doing 45 mph, when it went horizontal and just dissappeared I was doing 55 mph, topped off at 59 mph. Like I said, wasn't running as hard as I knew it had as I had too much oil in it. My GF clocked me down the hwy in her new Camry! Oh, I pulled the carb and cleaned it to make sure that was not an issue. 40 to 1 is it for sure. Plug pics later.
If you want 32 to 1 and have a good oil injection now, cable adjusted all the way, add 1.1 ounce. My oiler injexted about 2.9 ounces of oil per gallon with cable almost all the way, I might have about a turn left. 2.9 ounces meaning a tenth more an ounce is 3.0 ounces.
Now I just did some plug tests, runs and what not and have some very interesting results and info. Bu gotta take a shower, relax a bit and grab a beer. My info revolves around spark plug, extra oil in gas and what not so stay tuned later tonight. I will have plug pics as well. In short, I would add just an ounce of oil to a full tank of gas, no more, for the first 3 or 4 tanks, go with the regular med plug which was the NGKBR6HSA. After several more tanks, I would stay with the injector or just add 1/2 ounce per tank but the injector will do ike 43 to 1 which should be fine. I may clean out my lines etc just to have it all perfect but it seems to be right on the money.
I have been adding about an ounce, and last night thought I wasn't adding enough so I added about an ounce and a half. Well today it was obvious it was too much. Top end was a bit slower, smoked a little bit. I ran it a bit then topped off the tank with just gas, about a quart, it ran a bit better. I pulled the Colder Chamnpion plug , L78C same as the NGK BR8HSA, that came with the Polini to look at it. I installed this plug new, been thru maybe 4 or 5 tank fulls during break in. Champion L78C which was a replacement for the NGK BR8HSA, a plug that is for hotter engines, extended running, less ceramic to insulate the electrode so heat dissapates faster to the head, so the plug runs colder. Anyway, while it had some brown, it also had some carbon. Two things, the plug isn't getting hot enough to burn off all the deposits as in excess oil I am adding, carb too rich, plug too cold so, I reinstalled the Champion replacement for the regular NGK BR6HSA which is a RL87YC. Same as the NGK BR6HSA but the gap is .032 so you have to really bring it down to .028 but its a replacement and available at Napa. Anyway same heat range a hotter plug. I also cut back on the oil.
So my .25 cents, new cylinder add an ounce for the first few tanks,a tank being just over a gallon. Run the regular plug as it will foul with the extra oil and not running it long hard for the extended NGK BR8HSA (or Champion L78C) plug to get hot enough to burn it all off. Once its well broken in and you cut back on the oil, go to the cooler plug.
I rambled on, will post pics later.
Oh, My scoot shoots like a rocket from 5 mph thru the begining of the F in fuel. Then slows a bit but keeps going! The needle when it hits the L in fuel I was doing 45 mph, when it went horizontal and just dissappeared I was doing 55 mph, topped off at 59 mph. Like I said, wasn't running as hard as I knew it had as I had too much oil in it. My GF clocked me down the hwy in her new Camry! Oh, I pulled the carb and cleaned it to make sure that was not an issue. 40 to 1 is it for sure. Plug pics later.
well it sounds like your getting some miles on the build. seems to me like a lot of messing with plugs. will run the B8HS NGK here, as that is what the folks at VT said to do. will jet around that plug unless i find out for sure that i have the wrong plug. Did you wire the pump open? or are you just adjusted all the way on the adjuster? Would seem to me on these builds with the little carb, that adding oil to the gas is not really necessary. also confuses proper jetting i feel. cannot say that is fact either, because i have never messed with this motor, and system before.i will if i ever get my kits to clear customs know a bit more when its all said and done. my plan is run synthetic oil from the giddyup. wire the pump open. run a 97 mainjet also. you seem to have halfway decent speed for top end but there is more i do believe. at least 5 more. interesting i have to say.itzmepete wrote:If you want 32 to 1 and have a good oil injection now, cable adjusted all the way, add 1.1 ounce. My oiler injexted about 2.9 ounces of oil per gallon with cable almost all the way, I might have about a turn left. 2.9 ounces meaning a tenth more an ounce is 3.0 ounces.
Now I just did some plug tests, runs and what not and have some very interesting results and info. Bu gotta take a shower, relax a bit and grab a beer. My info revolves around spark plug, extra oil in gas and what not so stay tuned later tonight. I will have plug pics as well. In short, I would add just an ounce of oil to a full tank of gas, no more, for the first 3 or 4 tanks, go with the regular med plug which was the NGKBR6HSA. After several more tanks, I would stay with the injector or just add 1/2 ounce per tank but the injector will do ike 43 to 1 which should be fine. I may clean out my lines etc just to have it all perfect but it seems to be right on the money.
I have been adding about an ounce, and last night thought I wasn't adding enough so I added about an ounce and a half. Well today it was obvious it was too much. Top end was a bit slower, smoked a little bit. I ran it a bit then topped off the tank with just gas, about a quart, it ran a bit better. I pulled the Colder Chamnpion plug , L78C same as the NGK BR8HSA, that came with the Polini to look at it. I installed this plug new, been thru maybe 4 or 5 tank fulls during break in. Champion L78C which was a replacement for the NGK BR8HSA, a plug that is for hotter engines, extended running, less ceramic to insulate the electrode so heat dissapates faster to the head, so the plug runs colder. Anyway, while it had some brown, it also had some carbon. Two things, the plug isn't getting hot enough to burn off all the deposits as in excess oil I am adding, carb too rich, plug too cold so, I reinstalled the Champion replacement for the regular NGK BR6HSA which is a RL87YC. Same as the NGK BR6HSA but the gap is .032 so you have to really bring it down to .028 but its a replacement and available at Napa. Anyway same heat range a hotter plug. I also cut back on the oil.
So my .25 cents, new cylinder add an ounce for the first few tanks,a tank being just over a gallon. Run the regular plug as it will foul with the extra oil and not running it long hard for the extended NGK BR8HSA (or Champion L78C) plug to get hot enough to burn it all off. Once its well broken in and you cut back on the oil, go to the cooler plug.
I rambled on, will post pics later.
Oh, My scoot shoots like a rocket from 5 mph thru the begining of the F in fuel. Then slows a bit but keeps going! The needle when it hits the L in fuel I was doing 45 mph, when it went horizontal and just dissappeared I was doing 55 mph, topped off at 59 mph. Like I said, wasn't running as hard as I knew it had as I had too much oil in it. My GF clocked me down the hwy in her new Camry! Oh, I pulled the carb and cleaned it to make sure that was not an issue. 40 to 1 is it for sure. Plug pics later.
I have yet to really mess with the plugs till now. The B8HS is a cold plug which is right for a fast reving Hi Po engine that will run HOTTER than a stock but during break in, where you run it easy, and with more oil, the engine will not climb up there in the temp so the plug will dissapate heat faster than a regular plug so the plug will foul quicker. Even if you run it hard from time to time like I have been doing it won't be enough to keep the plug in its heat range. Just a waste of money on a good NGK plug that are hare to find around locally at least in my town. If my engine was loosened up, broken in, running hard and with a pipe, yes, the cooler plug for sure and plug chops to check and tune. But when its getting alot of oil for break in, nope, that plug won't get hot enough and will foul up as opposed to a hotter plug will stay cleaner longer.
Yes, never change plugs to compensate for wrong jetting, that is sooo true and key. I still think I have the right jetting if not maybe off by a hair like a #97 but untill the engine has at least another 100 miles I am not gonna mess with it and risk leaning it out. Especially not untill I slap the new muffler cuz that will make a difference big time.
Wiring the oiler open, right now I am getting enough oil stock as is. Wired open will allow alot of oil in at low speeds. What good will that do other than your motor will have to burn it off to unwind. I think with the cable right now fully adjusted to its max, the engine gets enough oil at full speed and more than normal at slow speed cuz the cable is adjusted more . So wired open just lets in alot of oil at slow speeds. Maybe fouling up the plug, muffler etc. I just rode it again, and its riding hard again, I think it was just too much oil in the gas last night. When I cleaned the carb out the gas was blue, so I could see the oil in it, plus what the injector threw in which was darn close to 40 to 1 like 43 to 1 to be exact.
Synthetic yeah, keeps engine cleaner but real oil, like with castor oil in our model engines, well they stain BUT sealed the cylindr like nothing else! When I ran my models, I ran a mix of syn and castor, On a ringed engine, always castor as a few tanks of Syn and I lost compression, a few tanks of castor again and it went back up. This affected my top end and idle. So, I am not sure, a bit of both would be nice or just say to heck with it and slap in Castrol, never let my Turbo down when Valvoline did!!!
Happy, Just found something very interesting. Something so simple I overlooked! I went and looked at my oil luber cable, hand a few threads still showing, you have to so the rubber boot stays on. After adjusting a bit more I realized that the oiler bracket can be bent very easily. Hmmm, probably bent before I got the bike by who knows who. Why does this matter? Well allot, seems I had it way adjusted for max oil but the bracket wasn't where it should have been, this affects the throttle. Why? Well IF the oiler cable reaches full travel and hits it's stop, the throttle will stop too even though its NOT fully open! So, technically, I want to place the cable adjust so that I just have enough threads sticking out for the cables rubber boot to hold onto. Then open throttle full open and check the throttle slide to see if its fully open, I looked and it was not, and either adjust the throttle cable, gotta check manual how to, or bend the oiler bracket back to allow me to open the throttle more to fully open. Does that make sense or did I confuse you with my babble? In any even, its one cable running two valves and if the oiler bottoms out before the carb does we don't get full carb so we gotta rig (adjust) so at full throttle they are both are full open. Then I can do another oil consumtion check and see if its close enough to 40 to 1. I have plug pics but will post later, this has my interest now.
Yes, never change plugs to compensate for wrong jetting, that is sooo true and key. I still think I have the right jetting if not maybe off by a hair like a #97 but untill the engine has at least another 100 miles I am not gonna mess with it and risk leaning it out. Especially not untill I slap the new muffler cuz that will make a difference big time.
Wiring the oiler open, right now I am getting enough oil stock as is. Wired open will allow alot of oil in at low speeds. What good will that do other than your motor will have to burn it off to unwind. I think with the cable right now fully adjusted to its max, the engine gets enough oil at full speed and more than normal at slow speed cuz the cable is adjusted more . So wired open just lets in alot of oil at slow speeds. Maybe fouling up the plug, muffler etc. I just rode it again, and its riding hard again, I think it was just too much oil in the gas last night. When I cleaned the carb out the gas was blue, so I could see the oil in it, plus what the injector threw in which was darn close to 40 to 1 like 43 to 1 to be exact.
Synthetic yeah, keeps engine cleaner but real oil, like with castor oil in our model engines, well they stain BUT sealed the cylindr like nothing else! When I ran my models, I ran a mix of syn and castor, On a ringed engine, always castor as a few tanks of Syn and I lost compression, a few tanks of castor again and it went back up. This affected my top end and idle. So, I am not sure, a bit of both would be nice or just say to heck with it and slap in Castrol, never let my Turbo down when Valvoline did!!!
Happy, Just found something very interesting. Something so simple I overlooked! I went and looked at my oil luber cable, hand a few threads still showing, you have to so the rubber boot stays on. After adjusting a bit more I realized that the oiler bracket can be bent very easily. Hmmm, probably bent before I got the bike by who knows who. Why does this matter? Well allot, seems I had it way adjusted for max oil but the bracket wasn't where it should have been, this affects the throttle. Why? Well IF the oiler cable reaches full travel and hits it's stop, the throttle will stop too even though its NOT fully open! So, technically, I want to place the cable adjust so that I just have enough threads sticking out for the cables rubber boot to hold onto. Then open throttle full open and check the throttle slide to see if its fully open, I looked and it was not, and either adjust the throttle cable, gotta check manual how to, or bend the oiler bracket back to allow me to open the throttle more to fully open. Does that make sense or did I confuse you with my babble? In any even, its one cable running two valves and if the oiler bottoms out before the carb does we don't get full carb so we gotta rig (adjust) so at full throttle they are both are full open. Then I can do another oil consumtion check and see if its close enough to 40 to 1. I have plug pics but will post later, this has my interest now.