the bent bracket is something to look at for sure.. the reason i was saying wire the throttle open is in the event your out there spooling this thing pretty hard for several miles, and its running good and its also hot but still not super hot . it will when you let off the throttle still have a good amount of oil runing through the motor when your letting off the throttle after a fairly hard run or say you do this in the summer when its really hot . you need oil when you let off too is my thoughts. when you fixed the bent bracket it should have given you better top end ??itzmepete wrote:I have yet to really mess with the plugs till now. The B8HS is a cold plug which is right for a fast reving Hi Po engine that will run HOTTER than a stock but during break in, where you run it easy, and with more oil, the engine will not climb up there in the temp so the plug will dissapate heat faster than a regular plug so the plug will foul quicker. Even if you run it hard from time to time like I have been doing it won't be enough to keep the plug in its heat range. Just a waste of money on a good NGK plug that are hare to find around locally at least in my town. If my engine was loosened up, broken in, running hard and with a pipe, yes, the cooler plug for sure and plug chops to check and tune. But when its getting alot of oil for break in, nope, that plug won't get hot enough and will foul up as opposed to a hotter plug will stay cleaner longer.
Yes, never change plugs to compensate for wrong jetting, that is sooo true and key. I still think I have the right jetting if not maybe off by a hair like a #97 but untill the engine has at least another 100 miles I am not gonna mess with it and risk leaning it out. Especially not untill I slap the new muffler cuz that will make a difference big time.
Wiring the oiler open, right now I am getting enough oil stock as is. Wired open will allow alot of oil in at low speeds. What good will that do other than your motor will have to burn it off to unwind. I think with the cable right now fully adjusted to its max, the engine gets enough oil at full speed and more than normal at slow speed cuz the cable is adjusted more . So wired open just lets in alot of oil at slow speeds. Maybe fouling up the plug, muffler etc. I just rode it again, and its riding hard again, I think it was just too much oil in the gas last night. When I cleaned the carb out the gas was blue, so I could see the oil in it, plus what the injector threw in which was darn close to 40 to 1 like 43 to 1 to be exact.
Synthetic yeah, keeps engine cleaner but real oil, like with castor oil in our model engines, well they stain BUT sealed the cylindr like nothing else! When I ran my models, I ran a mix of syn and castor, On a ringed engine, always castor as a few tanks of Syn and I lost compression, a few tanks of castor again and it went back up. This affected my top end and idle. So, I am not sure, a bit of both would be nice or just say to heck with it and slap in Castrol, never let my Turbo down when Valvoline did!!!
Happy, Just found something very interesting. Something so simple I overlooked! I went and looked at my oil luber cable, hand a few threads still showing, you have to so the rubber boot stays on. After adjusting a bit more I realized that the oiler bracket can be bent very easily. Hmmm, probably bent before I got the bike by who knows who. Why does this matter? Well allot, seems I had it way adjusted for max oil but the bracket wasn't where it should have been, this affects the throttle. Why? Well IF the oiler cable reaches full travel and hits it's stop, the throttle will stop too even though its NOT fully open! So, technically, I want to place the cable adjust so that I just have enough threads sticking out for the cables rubber boot to hold onto. Then open throttle full open and check the throttle slide to see if its fully open, I looked and it was not, and either adjust the throttle cable, gotta check manual how to, or bend the oiler bracket back to allow me to open the throttle more to fully open. Does that make sense or did I confuse you with my babble? In any even, its one cable running two valves and if the oiler bottoms out before the carb does we don't get full carb so we gotta rig (adjust) so at full throttle they are both are full open. Then I can do another oil consumtion check and see if its close enough to 40 to 1. I have plug pics but will post later, this has my interest now.
Preformance Speed Variator is BS on Elite SR50
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Thats a good point. Hmmm, gonna chew on it a while. Usually when I do let it off the throttle, I throttle down half way. But that ius sometyhing to consider.
Last night I rigged the oil and throttle, so know when the throttle is wide open, the oil is at max and so it the carb, fully open so they both are in sync.
Gonna go run it again later today. Pete
Last night I rigged the oil and throttle, so know when the throttle is wide open, the oil is at max and so it the carb, fully open so they both are in sync.
Gonna go run it again later today. Pete
itzmepete wrote:Thats a good point. Hmmm, gonna chew on it a while. Usually when I do let it off the throttle, I throttle down half way. But that ius sometyhing to consider.
Last night I rigged the oil and throttle, so know when the throttle is wide open, the oil is at max and so it the carb, fully open so they both are in sync.
Gonna go run it again later today. Pete
ya ever think about running the NGK B8HS i mentioned??you may like it.
I have a couple, but I used the Champion equivalant, its the exact same thing, same heat range, same everything even gap. heck it came with the Polini. But, its not running right at top end. Lacks the punch it had. I did a compression check now and hot its 135 which is better than when new so its sealing properly. Gonna pull the gas tank and clean it out good, check the gas strainer and flush all the lines including the oil feed lines. I boughht some new rubber lines and might change the oil lines as well. It was running fine with the Champion just not as brown as with the stock cylinder. Its something fuel related, I beleve its rust in the tank. I have some toilet bowl cleaner, it eats rust, hydrocloric Acid 20% , it will leave it spotless.
Just heard back from Steve fron VT, said I can run any pipe but none other than the R! will benefit me because I am sticking with stock carb. Said if I moved up to a 24mm, I can do either a PG long or Short. Probably get the R1 as originally planned. He said its lighter than the stock pipe, heavier than the others but will improve on my set up. If I later change the carb setup, then I will redo the pipe I guess
Just heard back from Steve fron VT, said I can run any pipe but none other than the R! will benefit me because I am sticking with stock carb. Said if I moved up to a 24mm, I can do either a PG long or Short. Probably get the R1 as originally planned. He said its lighter than the stock pipe, heavier than the others but will improve on my set up. If I later change the carb setup, then I will redo the pipe I guess
you may have a leak somewhere.crank seals or intake leak of some sort.. or just a fuel issueitzmepete wrote:I have a couple, but I used the Champion equivalant, its the exact same thing, same heat range, same everything even gap. heck it came with the Polini. But, its not running right at top end. Lacks the punch it had. I did a compression check now and hot its 135 which is better than when new so its sealing properly. Gonna pull the gas tank and clean it out good, check the gas strainer and flush all the lines including the oil feed lines. I boughht some new rubber lines and might change the oil lines as well. It was running fine with the Champion just not as brown as with the stock cylinder. Its something fuel related, I beleve its rust in the tank. I have some toilet bowl cleaner, it eats rust, hydrocloric Acid 20% , it will leave it spotless.
Just heard back from Steve fron VT, said I can run any pipe but none other than the R! will benefit me because I am sticking with stock carb. Said if I moved up to a 24mm, I can do either a PG long or Short. Probably get the R1 as originally planned. He said its lighter than the stock pipe, heavier than the others but will improve on my set up. If I later change the carb setup, then I will redo the pipe I guess
I have rust in my tank, I am *. I started to clean it, used toilet bowl cleaner got all the rust out quickly and easy BUT I noticed some blisters at the bottom of the tank on the outside. Then noticed it was right were all the rust was on the inside, my tank is shot. I tapped on the blicters and it broke thru the tank. I have holes on the bottom not really big, like a #2 pencil lead not the whole pencil now 1/16 and 1/8 dia. May be able to weld it but what for it will rust again. Problem is I am heading out of town for several months so I need to get it fixed before I leave as I am taking that with my work van so now I am in a rush to either have it temp welded or get a new tank next day air.
Yeah, the gas inside had a rust color floating around. I cleaned the whole fuel and oil injection system including the carb again. The rest is ok, infact I did a compression check and got 150 psi hot which before I got 115 psi so the rings are/have sealed. Everything else checks out fine. If I can get the tank welding I might just hold off on a new tank so if you see blisters even very small ones on the bottom of the tank, its a bad sign. Especially near and around the peacock valve, there is a dip in the tank there and thats where 90% of my rust was.
Yeah, the gas inside had a rust color floating around. I cleaned the whole fuel and oil injection system including the carb again. The rest is ok, infact I did a compression check and got 150 psi hot which before I got 115 psi so the rings are/have sealed. Everything else checks out fine. If I can get the tank welding I might just hold off on a new tank so if you see blisters even very small ones on the bottom of the tank, its a bad sign. Especially near and around the peacock valve, there is a dip in the tank there and thats where 90% of my rust was.
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Kenny_McCormic
- CBR1000RR
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 11:51 am
- Location: Southern Michigan
itzmepete wrote:I have rust in my tank, I am *. I started to clean it, used toilet bowl cleaner got all the rust out quickly and easy BUT I noticed some blisters at the bottom of the tank on the outside. Then noticed it was right were all the rust was on the inside, my tank is shot. I tapped on the blicters and it broke thru the tank. I have holes on the bottom not really big, like a #2 pencil lead not the whole pencil now 1/16 and 1/8 dia. May be able to weld it but what for it will rust again. Problem is I am heading out of town for several months so I need to get it fixed before I leave as I am taking that with my work van so now I am in a rush to either have it temp welded or get a new tank next day air.
Yeah, the gas inside had a rust color floating around. I cleaned the whole fuel and oil injection system including the carb again. The rest is ok, infact I did a compression check and got 150 psi hot which before I got 115 psi so the rings are/have sealed. Everything else checks out fine. If I can get the tank welding I might just hold off on a new tank so if you see blisters even very small ones on the bottom of the tank, its a bad sign. Especially near and around the peacock valve, there is a dip in the tank there and thats where 90% of my rust was.
ahhhhhh thats a bummer indeed as was stated already you may be able to silver solder and be ok.. if it was up to me i prolly would opt for the new tank. it all depends on how it looks and if there are other suspect spots of rust that may tunr out to be issus too.. good luck.
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Kenny_McCormic
- CBR1000RR
- Posts: 4957
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 11:51 am
- Location: Southern Michigan
Yeah, Total cost with shipping was $29, $19 and change and another 9 for shipping. I spoke to him on the phone, he pulled the float and looked inside, said it was like new no rust., My bike was a scooter rental bike, gas in gas cans , in Key West so the chance of water in the tank is high and where it was that last bit doesn't get eaten by the engine just sits there. Anyway, I picked up some permatex gas tank repai putty, pretty strong stuff, for a temp. I fueld it up and ran it. Here is the deal, At full throttle neddle pegged after a minute or so startes to bogg down, as in leaning out so I let off the gast bring it down to 35 40 and after a minute back to normal. So, its obviously not getting enough gas. My option is to rejet as I think I am getting enough oil. At about 43 to 1 should be enough. Now I have about half a gallong of gass in it so if I add an ounce of gas, with what the pump puts out, should be well into the mid 30's to 1 and if it still does that then I have a deal somewhere. No leaks in the intake. I don't remember it doing this as I never kept it wide open throttle for any long length of time such as now so I don't know if this was present before? If I ride it whjere I can see the needle 50 mph or below it runs fine. Considering the condition of the plug, I don't think it needs more oil just more gas. Gonna pull my micrometer and redo the jet next size up and see what happens. The engine should be loosened up as it has almost 350 miles and I have ridden it easy , plus the compression is at 150 psi so its sealed. New was 115 psi. Will let ya know later. If its leaning out now, it will big time with the new muffler.
Ok, I FOUND the problem!! Its leaning out, didn't do it before cuz I never left it WOT for a very long time. Now I DID open up the airbox remember ? BEFORE I did the gear but again, I didn't run it long enough to see if it would lean out, just long enough to see that the opened up airbox gave me more top end. Sooo, I took the airbox off, and I used heavy dutyy electrical tape to cover about 30% of the carbs inlet, reinstalled the airbox as it also held the tape in place and ran it. Well, now I can run WOT for a very long time but it still leans out just a little after like 4 min WOT and my top end is slower cuz its like keeping the throttle cut back a bit although the needle is all out. Anyway, I have about half a tank. I dumped an ounce of oil, I KNOW it has enough now, 1 ounce at half tank is like 2 ounces at full PLUS what the pump puts out. It ran like before a bit longer before leaning again. I pulled over, removed the blocked tape and ran it again, and it leaned out again quickly! So, I either replace my airbox cover with a new one and not open it as much, but will probably lean out and if it doesn't, will kill my top end speed OR redrill my jetbut I am curious how much I can go with the stock needle? The next size up drill bit I can get my hands on is a 3/64 which means I will go up from a #100 to a #111 which is a big jump but heck, can't run worse than what its running now? I'll run down to Lowes and get that bit and see what happens. This means when I replace my muffler forget it, could leaqn out again. Anyway, I am posityive this is the problem and instead of cutting back airflow I am gonna increae fuel , hopefully it won't mess up my carbs low end. Lety ya know what happens tomorrow.
Ok, I FOUND the problem!! Its leaning out, didn't do it before cuz I never left it WOT for a very long time. Now I DID open up the airbox remember ? BEFORE I did the gear but again, I didn't run it long enough to see if it would lean out, just long enough to see that the opened up airbox gave me more top end. Sooo, I took the airbox off, and I used heavy dutyy electrical tape to cover about 30% of the carbs inlet, reinstalled the airbox as it also held the tape in place and ran it. Well, now I can run WOT for a very long time but it still leans out just a little after like 4 min WOT and my top end is slower cuz its like keeping the throttle cut back a bit although the needle is all out. Anyway, I have about half a tank. I dumped an ounce of oil, I KNOW it has enough now, 1 ounce at half tank is like 2 ounces at full PLUS what the pump puts out. It ran like before a bit longer before leaning again. I pulled over, removed the blocked tape and ran it again, and it leaned out again quickly! So, I either replace my airbox cover with a new one and not open it as much, but will probably lean out and if it doesn't, will kill my top end speed OR redrill my jetbut I am curious how much I can go with the stock needle? The next size up drill bit I can get my hands on is a 3/64 which means I will go up from a #100 to a #111 which is a big jump but heck, can't run worse than what its running now? I'll run down to Lowes and get that bit and see what happens. This means when I replace my muffler forget it, could leaqn out again. Anyway, I am posityive this is the problem and instead of cutting back airflow I am gonna increae fuel , hopefully it won't mess up my carbs low end. Lety ya know what happens tomorrow.
itzmepete wrote:Yeah, Total cost with shipping was $29, $19 and change and another 9 for shipping. I spoke to him on the phone, he pulled the float and looked inside, said it was like new no rust., My bike was a scooter rental bike, gas in gas cans , in Key West so the chance of water in the tank is high and where it was that last bit doesn't get eaten by the engine just sits there. Anyway, I picked up some permatex gas tank repai putty, pretty strong stuff, for a temp. I fueld it up and ran it. Here is the deal, At full throttle neddle pegged after a minute or so startes to bogg down, as in leaning out so I let off the gast bring it down to 35 40 and after a minute back to normal. So, its obviously not getting enough gas. My option is to rejet as I think I am getting enough oil. At about 43 to 1 should be enough. Now I have about half a gallong of gass in it so if I add an ounce of gas, with what the pump puts out, should be well into the mid 30's to 1 and if it still does that then I have a deal somewhere. No leaks in the intake. I don't remember it doing this as I never kept it wide open throttle for any long length of time such as now so I don't know if this was present before? If I ride it whjere I can see the needle 50 mph or below it runs fine. Considering the condition of the plug, I don't think it needs more oil just more gas. Gonna pull my micrometer and redo the jet next size up and see what happens. The engine should be loosened up as it has almost 350 miles and I have ridden it easy , plus the compression is at 150 psi so its sealed. New was 115 psi. Will let ya know later. If its leaning out now, it will big time with the new muffler.
Ok, I FOUND the problem!! Its leaning out, didn't do it before cuz I never left it WOT for a very long time. Now I DID open up the airbox remember ? BEFORE I did the gear but again, I didn't run it long enough to see if it would lean out, just long enough to see that the opened up airbox gave me more top end. Sooo, I took the airbox off, and I used heavy dutyy electrical tape to cover about 30% of the carbs inlet, reinstalled the airbox as it also held the tape in place and ran it. Well, now I can run WOT for a very long time but it still leans out just a little after like 4 min WOT and my top end is slower cuz its like keeping the throttle cut back a bit although the needle is all out. Anyway, I have about half a tank. I dumped an ounce of oil, I KNOW it has enough now, 1 ounce at half tank is like 2 ounces at full PLUS what the pump puts out. It ran like before a bit longer before leaning again. I pulled over, removed the blocked tape and ran it again, and it leaned out again quickly! So, I either replace my airbox cover with a new one and not open it as much, but will probably lean out and if it doesn't, will kill my top end speed OR redrill my jetbut I am curious how much I can go with the stock needle? The next size up drill bit I can get my hands on is a 3/64 which means I will go up from a #100 to a #111 which is a big jump but heck, can't run worse than what its running now? I'll run down to Lowes and get that bit and see what happens. This means when I replace my muffler forget it, could leaqn out again. Anyway, I am posityive this is the problem and instead of cutting back airflow I am gonna increae fuel , hopefully it won't mess up my carbs low end. Lety ya know what happens tomorrow.
your having a heck of a time the way it sounds.seems strange to be running out of fuel. think if i was having an issue like that i would increase the hose size a bit to make sure its getting fuel and take the oil out of the gas too. just run the pump wired open and that way your not leaning the mixture out with all that oil in the system.your sure you not having a weeping out the base gasket? or even the head gasket when its warmed up? you will see the drool if any of that is going on.. i also think the needle jet is adjustable on these things too. if so you may want to put the clip on the bottom slot.
The one thing you may also want to do is pull the little fuel filter out, and see how nasty it is. rust may be stopping the fuel flow. there not bad to get at the way it looks. just they are up in the tank. i never have pulled mine but it appears ya pull the big bottom nut off the tank bottom, and filter is up in the tank.just pull it out and clean it, or replace it what ever works. i did it too the oil filter. it did have some nasty in it.. whoever owned it before was not real fussy about what went into the oil tank. anyway before i would drill the jets wayyy out, and other radical changes, i would look at the fuel filter. also cannot imagine holding motor wide open for minutes on end. that scares me to think about it. anyway good luck!! that buildes a lot of heat and you may be seizing the thing a little.
I pulled the fuel filter and its clean, fuel is clean in carb. I drilled the jet out and it ran like crap, so I got my new unused jet and redrilled it again to 1mm using a different bit which seemed a hair larger. Runs very strong and hard again but after say 1/2 to 3/4 mile same thing so, if I have a air leak, I think the reed gasket or the two O rings in the manifold. The head gasket on the polini is an O ring and if that went I would think it would run like crap all the time plus I haven't dogged it that much. So, I never installed the Polini reed , I have the reed and new gaskets but didn't want to use it as ran fine with old reed and its not like the engine is rev'in faster than stock. I could change the two intake O rings, they could leak I guess. I don't know anything about the clip in the needle, gonna go look in the manual.
I personally think the stock carb is at its limit with the Corsa air demand. Larger drilling affect low end. I could go back to stock airbox and it will improve but my top end will suffer or leave it as is, do 50/54 mph just where the needle will start to dissappear and know if I do WOT I can only do so for a short burst. Either that OR go with bigger carb, delete oil pump and mix fuel. I think when I redo my muffler, I will have more issues with the stock carb , then be forced to go to a bigger carb anyway, and if I have the R! I will have a crappy muffler to go with the bigger carb so, When I go with the muffler, probably go with PG short or long as both will work, and if my carb issue gets worse, I have no choice but to go with a new carb. I honestly think the small carb just can't handle the cylinders air draw. I will get a new airbox and see how that works as well as check that clip ur talking about as I think I saw something about that but not sure.
I just took a look at the needle. I've never taken it apart, the retainer was kinda strange the way it holds the needle. Anyway, your right, book says the clip goes on slot 2, didn't say 2nd from bottom up but it was 3 rd from bottom up and there was 2 maybe 3 above the clip so it wasn't in the right place. Anyway, I moved the clip to the very bottom, this will raise the needle so when I go WOT, the needles tapered end is off the seat or at least the thinner tapered end is up more letting more fuel flow. I went to ride it but its drizzleing in Fl now, kinda cold and the thought of doing 55 on a slightly wet street scares the heck outta me! Anyhow, enough for a day. I think if I had a few jets, more precise drill bits I'd get it close but not perfect but close enough. The bit I used earlier to enlarge the #100 was alot bigger, I don't have my mic but I'd say it was at least 30% bigger and was obviously too big. I think I am close, but still think the carb is just too small. Maybe with this new needle adjustment and the stock airbox cover I should be ok, but just think this cylinder with stock carb is a 55 mph bike with a 60 short burst , which I could live with.
I just got my hands on a jewlers drill bit set on ebay $8 total with S/H, drill bits # 60, #59,#58,#57,#56 and #55.
#61 being a #100 or .99, I have this bit already its the others I don't. The next size I have jumps like 7 sizes up and was too much. The kit includes a #60 a 1.016, #59 a 1.041, a #58 1.067 and #57 1.092 and so on up to 1.145 bout 15 points up from a #100. My stock jet was a 78 or .78 mm, I jumped to a .99 , 21 points and its still not enough. So when I get a new jet, I will waste one more jet in the name of science doing one size at a time to see if I can hit the right size. Maybe I can adjust the needle pin to fine tune but I am not really optomistic about this stock carb, lol.
When I am done, I will probably change the title of this thread to redoing a stock SR50!
I personally think the stock carb is at its limit with the Corsa air demand. Larger drilling affect low end. I could go back to stock airbox and it will improve but my top end will suffer or leave it as is, do 50/54 mph just where the needle will start to dissappear and know if I do WOT I can only do so for a short burst. Either that OR go with bigger carb, delete oil pump and mix fuel. I think when I redo my muffler, I will have more issues with the stock carb , then be forced to go to a bigger carb anyway, and if I have the R! I will have a crappy muffler to go with the bigger carb so, When I go with the muffler, probably go with PG short or long as both will work, and if my carb issue gets worse, I have no choice but to go with a new carb. I honestly think the small carb just can't handle the cylinders air draw. I will get a new airbox and see how that works as well as check that clip ur talking about as I think I saw something about that but not sure.
I just took a look at the needle. I've never taken it apart, the retainer was kinda strange the way it holds the needle. Anyway, your right, book says the clip goes on slot 2, didn't say 2nd from bottom up but it was 3 rd from bottom up and there was 2 maybe 3 above the clip so it wasn't in the right place. Anyway, I moved the clip to the very bottom, this will raise the needle so when I go WOT, the needles tapered end is off the seat or at least the thinner tapered end is up more letting more fuel flow. I went to ride it but its drizzleing in Fl now, kinda cold and the thought of doing 55 on a slightly wet street scares the heck outta me! Anyhow, enough for a day. I think if I had a few jets, more precise drill bits I'd get it close but not perfect but close enough. The bit I used earlier to enlarge the #100 was alot bigger, I don't have my mic but I'd say it was at least 30% bigger and was obviously too big. I think I am close, but still think the carb is just too small. Maybe with this new needle adjustment and the stock airbox cover I should be ok, but just think this cylinder with stock carb is a 55 mph bike with a 60 short burst , which I could live with.
I just got my hands on a jewlers drill bit set on ebay $8 total with S/H, drill bits # 60, #59,#58,#57,#56 and #55.
#61 being a #100 or .99, I have this bit already its the others I don't. The next size I have jumps like 7 sizes up and was too much. The kit includes a #60 a 1.016, #59 a 1.041, a #58 1.067 and #57 1.092 and so on up to 1.145 bout 15 points up from a #100. My stock jet was a 78 or .78 mm, I jumped to a .99 , 21 points and its still not enough. So when I get a new jet, I will waste one more jet in the name of science doing one size at a time to see if I can hit the right size. Maybe I can adjust the needle pin to fine tune but I am not really optomistic about this stock carb, lol.
When I am done, I will probably change the title of this thread to redoing a stock SR50!