molossi build

Does your Spree/Elite already run great, and you're trying to make it quicker/faster? Need a monster motor swap? Discuss your ideas here.

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happyman
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Post by happyman »

Dac wrote:im saying you should not drill the baffles, or anything like that.
you bet i won't do that.. i can really go a little fatter on the main and that wil help the heat. plus i will just not be able to run it over 35 mph for more than just a bit as it gets real warm then more miles it wil prolly come into normal temps. plus it will as all know here be much quicker and a bit more on the top end..

Thanks again.
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itzmepete
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Post by itzmepete »

Happy, been away for a bit, now in Oklahoma. My SR50 had been running funny, good when cold, then at WOT it ran great but sometimes slowed down a tad then picked up again and so on. I think it was too much back pressure from the stock muffler. Once hot, the idle seemed rich, when I opened the throttle, it seemed to bog for like 2 to 5 seconds.

Anyway, I ordered a new idle mixture screw as my O ring looked bad. Well I got the new screw, with spring O ring and small washer. My screw was missing the washer! I popped in the screw with the spring then washer and O ring last and adjusted it as per Honda specs to 1 7/8 turns out. Adjust the idle speed screw and it ran perfect. I also ordered a new R1 pipe, 1k center clutch spring and Polini natural clutch springs with 8 grams weights for the Variator. I just installed the R1 muffler, it runs awesome, even hot I open the throttle and it comes off good, but after a second or two it takes off. I can keep it WOT forever with no probolems.

Now, I drilled my jet with#59 drill bit which is .041 thousands of an inch, like a hair over a 1mm, like 1.041mm . A #60 is .040 (1 thousands smaller) gives you a hole of 1.016mm and a #61 drill bit is.039 thousands or .99mm . Now here is the interesting part VT said they do not do anything to their airbox other than open up the second opening. I ordered a new airbox cover since I opened up mine ALOT. I got my new cover, opened only the scond port, slapped it on and my scooter ran so rich it wouldn't do more than 7mph! Now I know my jet is slightly bigger than what VT said 1mm, my jet is 1 thousands bigger but thats it. I can't imagine that would be a big deal where it would not run with the unmodded airbox cover. I do have 3 extra new jets that I ordered, I am gonna drill one with a number #63 drill bit, thats alot smaller, .94 mm or .037 thousands, a stock jet is .78mm. I looked at the included Polini jet and its just an .82 thats 4 ticks up than stock although for a totally different carb . What are you using to check you head temp? In any event, I wanna see if with the smaller jet, it runs with the stock airbox cover with only the second port opened. I DO KNOW that at 1mm jet and my airbox cover modded to what my pic was before, I GET ALOT more air in the engine and it runs ALOT faster. When my engine is cold, I do have to start it, let it idle for a few seconds and rev it carefully as it wants to stall, once I get it to rev a bit, and its half way warmed up, its fine. I think its the colder Oklahoma weather we have here as in the daytime, when the temp is mide 70's I don't have this problem. Only when I get on it at say 2 am after work when its 45 f outside. But my scooter is running smooth, fast and great. I have not yet put the clutch springs, or 8 gram weights yet although I don't need it now, it was that needle O ring and missing washer that did the trick. Kenoee at VT thought I needed to tune my transmission and suggested those parts so I ordered it. I think it will improve my take of thats for sure but right now its perfect and take off is fine. The R1 is a good pipe. You can get more power from your set up if you open up you airbox. If you drilled your jet, just loosen the airbox cover, pop something to keep the cover open say like a 1/4 inch and try a test run, I will be willing to bet that you will pick up alot more speed.
happyman
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Post by happyman »

itzmepete wrote:Happy, been away for a bit, now in Oklahoma. My SR50 had been running funny, good when cold, then at WOT it ran great but sometimes slowed down a tad then picked up again and so on. I think it was too much back pressure from the stock muffler. Once hot, the idle seemed rich, when I opened the throttle, it seemed to bog for like 2 to 5 seconds.

Anyway, I ordered a new idle mixture screw as my O ring looked bad. Well I got the new screw, with spring O ring and small washer. My screw was missing the washer! I popped in the screw with the spring then washer and O ring last and adjusted it as per Honda specs to 1 7/8 turns out. Adjust the idle speed screw and it ran perfect. I also ordered a new R1 pipe, 1k center clutch spring and Polini natural clutch springs with 8 grams weights for the Variator. I just installed the R1 muffler, it runs awesome, even hot I open the throttle and it comes off good, but after a second or two it takes off. I can keep it WOT forever with no probolems.

Now, I drilled my jet with#59 drill bit which is .041 thousands of an inch, like a hair over a 1mm, like 1.041mm . A #60 is .040 (1 thousands smaller) gives you a hole of 1.016mm and a #61 drill bit is.039 thousands or .99mm . Now here is the interesting part VT said they do not do anything to their airbox other than open up the second opening. I ordered a new airbox cover since I opened up mine ALOT. I got my new cover, opened only the scond port, slapped it on and my scooter ran so rich it wouldn't do more than 7mph! Now I know my jet is slightly bigger than what VT said 1mm, my jet is 1 thousands bigger but thats it. I can't imagine that would be a big deal where it would not run with the unmodded airbox cover. I do have 3 extra new jets that I ordered, I am gonna drill one with a number #63 drill bit, thats alot smaller, .94 mm or .037 thousands, a stock jet is .78mm. I looked at the included Polini jet and its just an .82 thats 4 ticks up than stock although for a totally different carb . What are you using to check you head temp? In any event, I wanna see if with the smaller jet, it runs with the stock airbox cover with only the second port opened. I DO KNOW that at 1mm jet and my airbox cover modded to what my pic was before, I GET ALOT more air in the engine and it runs ALOT faster. When my engine is cold, I do have to start it, let it idle for a few seconds and rev it carefully as it wants to stall, once I get it to rev a bit, and its half way warmed up, its fine. I think its the colder Oklahoma weather we have here as in the daytime, when the temp is mide 70's I don't have this problem. Only when I get on it at say 2 am after work when its 45 f outside. But my scooter is running smooth, fast and great. I have not yet put the clutch springs, or 8 gram weights yet although I don't need it now, it was that needle O ring and missing washer that did the trick. Kenoee at VT thought I needed to tune my transmission and suggested those parts so I ordered it. I think it will improve my take of thats for sure but right now its perfect and take off is fine. The R1 is a good pipe. You can get more power from your set up if you open up you airbox. If you drilled your jet, just loosen the airbox cover, pop something to keep the cover open say like a 1/4 inch and try a test run, I will be willing to bet that you will pick up alot more speed.
sounds like you do a lot changein jets. if you reallu want the thing to do allit can do as far as the stock carb without going into something real complicated, just get a #64 drill bit.orits .036. you get the jet run the bit in by twisting it just till it comes through. i repeat, just till it comes all the way through. do not, and once again, do not, keep turing it.just back it out very slowly. if you keep twisting you ahve a larger jet and you have just ruined a jet. its up to you. When it is out of course, blow it out good and make dang sure by looking into the light there are no little tiny burrs in there.. install the jet. if you do exactly as stated here and quit trying to invent the wheel, you see what a heck if a differance it makes. as long as you do the intake correct and you can ride it and get it warmed up good and make an adjustment then ride some more making sure then adjust some more. you will find you will have a scooter that can accellerate very good, for parts used. also you will find this thing will pull much harder up hills as far as maintaining speed.trust me it will make a huge differance and all your bog is gone ules the needle needs adjusted too. not sure what to expect from lighter rollers,but i imagine its gona make it pull a lot harder from the stop and spool up quicker and just maybe get more top end not sure i have had my engine up to 8000 and its still only running 56 mph.. the speedo is buried way before that. bout 50 its straight across.. i use GPS for speeed. i realize most wil tell us the speedo burid is 60 but on my first one i have done its not true. i really don't think this one will ever see sixty. no matter what. but i have not tried differant rollers to see if it spools up more to pull my 190 lbs. anyway your now headed in the correct direction and just maybe some of these guru's on here will help ya out a bit, i am not that good at these things, but in the long run i always get there if i pay attention. listen very carefully and do as people tell us. we will get all these things can put out. they are fun , and tuning them is not rocket science but its got to be done correct or we have ill running scooters.. and they have bad manners. good ljuck
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itzmepete
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Post by itzmepete »

Happy, I have only changed jets twice. I drilled it with a #60 for a 100 jet as per VT. I then went a bit larger which went too much as I did not have the next size drill bit and was leaving Fl for Oklahoma so I went back to the 100 jet. But I recently purchased a drill bit set consisting of a #65, 64,63,60,59,59,57,56 and 55, 55 is probably way to large but was in the set. I also replace my clutch springs both center and clutch shoes with a 1k upgrade and replaced my 9g rollers with 8 grams sent by VT. My old center spring was weak, was over an inch shorter even though the clutch was new. This would definately make the front vari go into hi quickly especially with 9 gram rollers. My scooter did 61 mph BUT the engine didn't unwind, got there slowly after 55 mph. Now with the new springs and rollers, it unwinds nice, top end lost a few MPH BUT the engine is now always at a higher RPM and pulls harder at 45 50 mph and you open the throttle where before it didn't pull as hard at that speed, just accelerted. I am gonna go back to the 9 gram rollers. You might think I will go back to my previous preformance but I don't think so, I think with my new stiffer center spring, it will keep the rear clutch at a lower gear throught the power band. If anything I will go 3 x 8 grams and 3 x 9. My engine ran quite a bit lower in the rpm at WOT before. I think your having a hot engine cuz the lower weight rollers and higher rpm due to the new center rear spring and your jet needs to be enlarged. You need at least a #61 or #60.
Oh I tried a #63 jet today, which is a .94 mm and it wasn't enough with my opened up airbox cover. I didn't try it with the stock cover, I popped back the 100 jet and have yet to see a lag or a power loss at WOT especially after the R1 muffler! The stock muffler was holding it back big time, probably too much back pressure built up in it.

My airbox, well, I can run the stock airbox cover, jetted with a #60 drill for a 100 jet, I don't know why it didn't the first time, must have been before I replaced the bad mixture needle anyway, BUT I get more power AND top speed with my opened up airbox. As for my warming up. it only seems to need it when its like 45 degrees outside, I start it, let it idle for 10 seconds, rev it a bit for like 20 seconds and that seems to be all it needs, no big deal. It is cold here, maybe I will switch back to the NGK6 plug. Yeah I can go back to the stock airbox cover but I CAN notice a big decrease in top end speed when I do. I'll stick with my new wheel, it turns faster, my 2 cents. The R1, works great, lighter than my old factor muffler, sounds nice as well. I am very close to having it perfect, gonna play a bit more with the Vari weights just to drop the rpm on the engine a bit and increase my top end speed a tad and I am there. Runs great right now, for city riding its perfect, really, engine zips, but I'd rather slow it down a tad and get more top end, save the engine and gas.

I am pleased with my results, finally. I get to keep my stock carb, oil injection and muffler looks stock. I saw a 19mm Polini carb for the elite on Ebay from Daywot, (Patrick). Says it a direct replacement for the stock carb. I might be interested in that IF I can keep my oil injection. Its a slightly larger carb, and I am sure has better mixture adjustment than the stock but the stock seems to be good enough for now. topping 60 is fast enough for me!
Good luck on your build
happyman
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Post by happyman »

itzmepete wrote:Happy, I have only changed jets twice. I drilled it with a #60 for a 100 jet as per VT. I then went a bit larger which went too much as I did not have the next size drill bit and was leaving Fl for Oklahoma so I went back to the 100 jet. But I recently purchased a drill bit set consisting of a #65, 64,63,60,59,59,57,56 and 55, 55 is probably way to large but was in the set. I also replace my clutch springs both center and clutch shoes with a 1k upgrade and replaced my 9g rollers with 8 grams sent by VT. My old center spring was weak, was over an inch shorter even though the clutch was new. This would definately make the front vari go into hi quickly especially with 9 gram rollers. My scooter did 61 mph BUT the engine didn't unwind, got there slowly after 55 mph. Now with the new springs and rollers, it unwinds nice, top end lost a few MPH BUT the engine is now always at a higher RPM and pulls harder at 45 50 mph and you open the throttle where before it didn't pull as hard at that speed, just accelerted. I am gonna go back to the 9 gram rollers. You might think I will go back to my previous preformance but I don't think so, I think with my new stiffer center spring, it will keep the rear clutch at a lower gear throught the power band. If anything I will go 3 x 8 grams and 3 x 9. My engine ran quite a bit lower in the rpm at WOT before. I think your having a hot engine cuz the lower weight rollers and higher rpm due to the new center rear spring and your jet needs to be enlarged. You need at least a #61 or #60.
Oh I tried a #63 jet today, which is a .94 mm and it wasn't enough with my opened up airbox cover. I didn't try it with the stock cover, I popped back the 100 jet and have yet to see a lag or a power loss at WOT especially after the R1 muffler! The stock muffler was holding it back big time, probably too much back pressure built up in it.

My airbox, well, I can run the stock airbox cover, jetted with a #60 drill for a 100 jet, I don't know why it didn't the first time, must have been before I replaced the bad mixture needle anyway, BUT I get more power AND top speed with my opened up airbox. As for my warming up. it only seems to need it when its like 45 degrees outside, I start it, let it idle for 10 seconds, rev it a bit for like 20 seconds and that seems to be all it needs, no big deal. It is cold here, maybe I will switch back to the NGK6 plug. Yeah I can go back to the stock airbox cover but I CAN notice a big decrease in top end speed when I do. I'll stick with my new wheel, it turns faster, my 2 cents. The R1, works great, lighter than my old factor muffler, sounds nice as well. I am very close to having it perfect, gonna play a bit more with the Vari weights just to drop the rpm on the engine a bit and increase my top end speed a tad and I am there. Runs great right now, for city riding its perfect, really, engine zips, but I'd rather slow it down a tad and get more top end, save the engine and gas.

I am pleased with my results, finally. I get to keep my stock carb, oil injection and muffler looks stock. I saw a 19mm Polini carb for the elite on Ebay from Daywot, (Patrick). Says it a direct replacement for the stock carb. I might be interested in that IF I can keep my oil injection. Its a slightly larger carb, and I am sure has better mixture adjustment than the stock but the stock seems to be good enough for now. topping 60 is fast enough for me!
Good luck on your build
well its good your happy with the build. i have the 9 g rollers and may just install 8.5. it spools good now just don't really have the top end.. i have tried a bit richer and its not going to take more fuel.. its very responsive with the 92 main or .036. ran it yesterday and with a 20+ mph wind a my back it went 58.8.This is GPS speed. also it don't make a rats * on temp if you richen the carb. at least on my scoot.. not sure bout what carbs have a place for injection for oil.. that would be a decent setup i imagine.. i run it on the kymco and its pretty decent. what kind of rpm ya turing.. i run at bout 7800 or so at 55 56 mph but with the wind its 8300 at the 58 mph run and i do have 400 miles on it and the temp has not changed a bit.. personally i have to wonder bout the unstalling the themo couple under the plug.i am not worried bout the temp as it don't seem to matter. i run it like that for most of the miles on it and it never gives any indication of seizing .always uless i am running in town its over 400 and on 500 a lot also i did drop the exhaust mjust to satisfy curiousity and piston is looking great.. plug has real nice color so i am not goning to pay attention to the heat guage.as i feel its wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy off it runs good and i guess its doing what its supposed to but then i am not the expert , i just go byu what i am told by thjose that have done many of these things there recipe seems to work for me
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