2000 SA50P variatior derestrict

earwigking · Post by **earwigking** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 10:12 pm

Hi. I just found this site. I am loving all the info here. I just got my 2000 sa50p made in mexico, and before I found the post on here about how to derestrict the variator by removing the restrictor plate, I took the front geared piece that is in front of the variator and ground about a 16th of and inch off of the inside face... you know making it closer to the other cone. Then I took the variartor out and dropped the pipe that is in the center of the variator and I ground about an 8th of and inch off of that.

So this took me from 18 on flat ground to 20 mph. My question is if I remove the restrictor plate now with it cause the 2 cones to be too close to each other? wish I hadn't ground on it now that I found this site and all this cool info.
Thanks in advance.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:11 am

Something isnt right, 20mph is WAYYYYYYYYYY too slow, unmodded and stock it should do 30 easily.

earwigking · Post by **earwigking** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:53 am

it was my impression that the sa50P was only designed for 20mph. She has good compression(new rings and gaskets)
I guess it could be running to rich or lean... I have the ring on the needle set at the lowest position and I have replaced the air cleaner box(I wasn't given one) with a piece of sock stretched over the carb opening and then a stiff 8 inchish section of pipe clamped on that. I haven't derestricted the exhaust either... figured I would get one thing at a time figured out.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:27 pm

It should do 25 or so unrestricted. Get a stock air filter back on it. That needle only sets the midrange.

earwigking · Post by **earwigking** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 2:32 am

Kenny_McCormic wrote:It should do 25 or so unrestricted. Get a stock air filter back on it. That needle only sets the midrange.

could you point me toward more info on this subject?

earwigking · Post by **earwigking** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:02 am

ok so with the tires properly inflated she will push 30 with slight tail wind...

in this picture it is number 2. Called the drive face boss? Does a new kelli variator from ebaycome with a new one of these?

Is the "restrictor plate" shown here?[/img]

qaz · Post by **qaz** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 11:11 am

The restrictor plate is number 6 in the diagram. Take the plate off and put the whole thing back together and try it, the variator will only close till the rear plate hits the front plate.

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 11:20 am

Greetings:

In my case, DayWOT's Keli came with only part number 3 in the diagram, along with six 9-gram rollers. You re-use your stock ramp plate (#7) and the cylincrical bushing (#2). Discard the grease cover (#6), the O-ring (#19) and the three (#15) screws.

Make sure you clean all the grease off everything with solvent or your belt will get too slippery to work. Rollers can be run dry, despite Honda-san's prescription for a bucket o' grease back there. I suspect the rollers need to be replaced more often without the grease bath, but hey - just another excuse to tinker.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:09 pm

earwigking wrote:
Kenny_McCormic wrote:It should do 25 or so unrestricted. Get a stock air filter back on it. That needle only sets the midrange.
could you point me toward more info on this subject?

Tuning slide carbs(crash course)

Airscrew=fine tune idle/pilot
Pilot/idle jet=up to 1/4 throttle or so
Needle=mid range fine tuning
Main jet=determine full throttle mixture and affects mixture from 1/4 throttle and up.

earwigking · Post by **earwigking** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 12:53 am

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

In my case, DayWOT's Keli came with only part number 3 in the diagram, along with six 9-gram rollers. You re-use your stock ramp plate (#7) and the cylincrical bushing (#2). Discard the grease cover (#6), the O-ring (#19) and the three (#15) screws.

Make sure you clean all the grease off everything with solvent or your belt will get too slippery to work. Rollers can be run dry, despite Honda-san's prescription for a bucket o' grease back there. I suspect the rollers need to be replaced more often without the grease bath, but hey - just another excuse to tinker.

wow. So if I buy the kelli will my shortened "drive face boss" be cool or will I need a new one from honda? The part is only 6 bucks that is why I just ground it...

qaz wrote:The restrictor plate is number 6 in the diagram. Take the plate off and put the whole thing back together and try it, the variator will only close till the rear plate hits the front plate.

well until I decide to get the kelli variator I will go ahead and take the restrictor plate out and see what happens.

RE: Kenny
thanks... if I want to deresrict the exhaust I am going to have to get a different main jet. will I have to adjust the needle taper also? how does one do that?

Thanks for your help so far everyone! I am glad to have found such a great forum.

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 1:27 am

Greetings:

You will need to pull the carb off and remove the float bowl. The main jet is a slotted brass fitting threaded into the center of the carb. I strongly suspect the stock jet is way small knowing Honda-san. The size may be stamped on the side of the jet.

If you know your model/year you can find the stock size of jet at MrCycles.com.

You can order a bigger stock one. The jets all start with the same 5-digit part number, (99101-) then a "0", then the next two digits indicate the jet size in .mm.with another "0" tacked on.

If you have, say, a 55, get a 60 and a couple bigger ones. Order 99101-0**0 where the stars indicate the jet size. Install and watch your plug for a brown color. White means too lean, black is too rich.

Oh yeah, order a new Vario bushing. Your Vario won't be able to shift up to the top with a shortened one. Then again, it might shift up and OVER the top, which would chew up the belt and/or derail it.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 4:05 pm

You can ignore straight diameter, taper, IMS and throttle valve cutaway for now.

earwigking · Post by **earwigking** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 9:08 pm

Thanks for the info! I removed the restrictor plate and I can clearly tell that I need a bigger jet... It will do 30 with a slight tail wind but I can hear it "running out" of fuel. It would appear from servicehonda.com that it comes stock with a #68 main jet. where would you recommend I start after I derestrict the exhaust? should I start with an 90 you think? It would appear that the stock sa50 comes with a 78 might this be a good starting point instead?

Wheelman-111 · Post by **Wheelman-111** » Thu Apr 16, 2009 4:49 pm

Greetings:

I believe 90 will be much too rich. 78, 82, and 85 will be closer. The 85 is recommended for the stock muffler and carb with the Polini 65.

As a reference, with a K&N filter, ported intake, HMCF reeds, 65cc Polini bore and LeoVinci pipe I settled on a 94 in the stock carb until I got the Arreche.

Stock intake, bore and pipe almost certainly can't use bigger than 88.

Good de-restricting job!

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2000 SA50P variatior derestrict

2000 SA50P variatior derestrict

Number 6

Re: Number 6

Deristricted Jetting