trans cooler

[maddog]

it does work very basic, anything that expends heat by 5 degrees is better than nothing

[wiguy05]

it does work very basic, anything that expends heat by 5 degrees is better than nothing

Thanks for posting, but no one really cares what you have to say

[toboggan]

it does work very basic, anything that expends heat by 5 degrees is better than nothing

Thanks for posting, but no one really cares what you have to say

Actually, you're wrong, i do.

What does it look like, and how does it work maddog?

[wiguy05]

Thanks for posting, but no one really cares what you have to say

Actually, you're wrong, i do.

What does it look like, and how does it work maddog?

Noob, search his old posts. He has done things like this before and you're about to fall right into his game. He will not disclose his "magic trans cooler" to anyone in hopes that it will continue to grow his e-*.

If heat is really an issue, figure out what is causing it and correct the problem. Synthetic lubricant also is a good idea.

[toboggan]

NOOB

He's probably been here wayy longer then i have. Therefore i don't know of all of his other posts such as this, when i've seen him post, i've never seen anything that he didn't reveal, so no posts i've seen would have grown his qoute on qoute "E-*"

And theres no need to saying * like "Noone really cares what you have to say" It's not that necessary at all. Keep your mouth shut for christ's sake!

[burnt_toast]

warning to both, cut it out please

I'd like to see where maddog goes with this

[scooterwerx]

hmmm, is it some sort of heat sink bonded to the case? air duct? swiss cheese cvt cover?

[bradthreee]

tape some dry ice on that sucker

[carp]

I got it !!!He's using it to cool down his room temp beer....I mean sodas.Carp

[Arnadanoob]

Sounds like a gimmick to me. I'm willing to bet more power can be obtained by tuning the bike correctly through the carb, manifold, reeds, ports and trans. No bike is tuned 100% perfectly, only with experience can you get close to that at any one time.

Cooling the fuel may have some results but the problem is there's not enough of it to make a difference. Remember that theoretically an engine should run ideally at stochiometric 14.7 air to 1 fuel. For a moped full power is best obtained between 12:1 to about 12.5:1. You'd get more results from ingesting cooler air than cooler fuel. Back in the dark ages I know of a few racers that claimed refrigerated fuel could make extra power but it was never proven on any dyno test. Fuel has to atomize in order to burn completely, if fuel resists atomization you lose power due to an incomplete burn.

A customer of mine wanted me to sell his product many years ago that was called by a different name (I can't remember) and he was probably thinking he was talking to someone who didn't understand engines. Even if the fuel was more cold or dense in volume, without a corresponding increase in air volume the engine would simply run more rich as the fuel temp does NOT compress the air volume. It's easier to increase fuel volume than air volume without machine porting, decreases in the air volume (air screw adjustments) and such.

[Bear45-70]

Sounds like a gimmick to me. I'm willing to bet more power can be obtained by tuning the bike correctly through the carb, manifold, reeds, ports and trans. No bike is tuned 100% perfectly, only with experience can you get close to that at any one time.

Cooling the fuel may have some results but the problem is there's not enough of it to make a difference. Remember that theoretically an engine should run ideally at stochiometric 14.7 air to 1 fuel. For a moped full power is best obtained between 12:1 to about 12.5:1. You'd get more results from ingesting cooler air than cooler fuel. Back in the dark ages I know of a few racers that claimed refrigerated fuel could make extra power but it was never proven on any dyno test. Fuel has to atomize in order to burn completely, if fuel resists atomization you lose power due to an incomplete burn.

A customer of mine wanted me to sell his product many years ago that was called by a different name (I can't remember) and he was probably thinking he was talking to someone who didn't understand engines. Even if the fuel was more cold or dense in volume, without a corresponding increase in air volume the engine would simply run more rich as the fuel temp does NOT compress the air volume. It's easier to increase fuel volume than air volume without machine porting, decreases in the air volume (air screw adjustments) and such.

The only time I ever saw a cool can (AKA, a copper fuel line coil inside a can filled with ice to cool the fuel) was when drag racing in 100+┬░ weather. It actually got back a fouth of the 10th of a second the hot weather robbed the car of. Below 60┬░ it was a a loser as it made the car slower. I agree with the lowering the inlet air temp being more important that cooling the fuel.

[burnt_toast]

BEAR COMES OUT OF HIBERNATION

[Bear45-70]

BEAR COMES OUT OF HIBERNATION

I actually have a life that can go without a scooter for months at a time, unlike some others.

[bradthreee]

BEAR COMES OUT OF HIBERNATION

I actually have a life that can go without a scooter for months at a time, unlike some others.

You lie...

[Arnadanoob]

Sounds like a gimmick to me. I'm willing to bet more power can be obtained by tuning the bike correctly through the carb, manifold, reeds, ports and trans. No bike is tuned 100% perfectly, only with experience can you get close to that at any one time.

Cooling the fuel may have some results but the problem is there's not enough of it to make a difference. Remember that theoretically an engine should run ideally at stochiometric 14.7 air to 1 fuel. For a moped full power is best obtained between 12:1 to about 12.5:1. You'd get more results from ingesting cooler air than cooler fuel. Back in the dark ages I know of a few racers that claimed refrigerated fuel could make extra power but it was never proven on any dyno test. Fuel has to atomize in order to burn completely, if fuel resists atomization you lose power due to an incomplete burn.

A customer of mine wanted me to sell his product many years ago that was called by a different name (I can't remember) and he was probably thinking he was talking to someone who didn't understand engines. Even if the fuel was more cold or dense in volume, without a corresponding increase in air volume the engine would simply run more rich as the fuel temp does NOT compress the air volume. It's easier to increase fuel volume than air volume without machine porting, decreases in the air volume (air screw adjustments) and such.

The only time I ever saw a cool can (AKA, a copper fuel line coil inside a can filled with ice to cool the fuel) was when drag racing in 100+┬░ weather. It actually got back a fouth of the 10th of a second the hot weather robbed the car of. Below 60┬░ it was a a loser as it made the car slower. I agree with the lowering the inlet air temp being more important that cooling the fuel.

Wow talk about a blast from the past. I recall seeing something like that and didn't know what it was in someone's home shop that had some really old race cars buried under a lot of storage boxes.